How to build a elevated "deck" layout

[POLO_Train]

Hello everyone,
I am finally ready to start to build an outdoor layout. It took years to clear out the back part of my yard, which was overgrown jungle that I believe no one had touched in decades. I was able to find some pictures of the progress, but I regret that I didn't take more pictures.

Here is the only photo I have right at the beginning:



Here are the size of some of the vines that were in the backyard, haha.


And here is the backyard today, and I already moved the 50 pieces of deck block to the backyard.




The back yard can flood from a stream located right next to my property line. It has happened 3 times since I moved in 2019.
I do not want to risk building the the layout on the ground, and having it destroyed.
I am going to start with an elevated "deck" layout. I hope to keep building on it next year, and the year after, etc.

This is my idea to build the deck system for a simple layout loop. I am estimating to make it 2' wide for the ability to run multiple tracks, add buildings, and stability of the structure. I will add in cross bracing at the start to keep it upright and rigid.
I wish to build it on the deck footing blocks so that I can move it around, adjust, and shim it for the first year or two. I currently do not plan to make cement footings yet. There are too many tree roots in the ground to start to deal with it this year or next year.



The layout will be approximately 40' x 60' (most likely a few feet smaller depending on trees and obstructions).

I will be using aristo craft track. 20' diameter with 6' straights.



Here is the basics of the first version of the layout.
The red rectangle/line is the length of the LGB RhB Glacier express. The longest train I will be running in the near future.




This will be my first time trying to build this type of layout.

What are you thoughts on the elevated "deck" design?
Are there a better designs?

Thank you!

 

[Chris Vernell]

Your design looks good. There is no single "correct" way to build these things.
Concrete deck blocks work very well. I use them because digging into our soil requires jackhammers and dynamite, and getting deep enough (48"+) to avoid frost heave is next to impossible -- not so much a problem down your way


I use pavers under the deck blocks to prevent the blocks from sinking into the ground during spring thaw.


Some legs are PT lumber on concrete pavers without deck blocks.


I used PT fence boards for the planking here. I use solid lumber throughout: Plywood, even "external grade", will not survive long under Ma Nature's thrashing.

 

[Chris Vernell]

These bents are made of PT 2x2 deck balusters. A 4x4 would be plenty strong, but I think these look better out in plain sight -- an important consideration with The Power That Be


They sit on penny pavers, again to keep them away from direct soil contact.

 

[POLO_Train]

Your design looks good. There is no single "correct" way to build these things.
Concrete deck blocks work very well. I use them because digging into our soil requires jackhammers and dynamite, and getting deep enough (48"+) to avoid frost heave is next to impossible -- not so much a problem down your way

I use pavers under the deck blocks to prevent the blocks from sinking into the ground during spring thaw.

Some legs are PT lumber on concrete pavers without deck blocks.

I used PT fence boards for the planking here. I use solid lumber throughout: Plywood, even "external grade", will not survive long under Ma Nature's thrashing.

Thank you Chris for the pictures and comments!

The paver under the block is a great idea. I will get some 12x12 pavers to help create a better footing for the block, and I have PT 2x4, PT 4x4 and PT deck boards for the build.

 

[Chris Vernell]

Thank you Chris for the pictures and comments!

The paver under the block is a great idea. I will get some 12x12 pavers to help create a better footing for the block, and I have PT 2x4, PT 4x4 and PT deck boards for the build.

Deck boards will make a better surface than the fence boards I used because of "budgetary constraints".
You should leave an air/drainage gap between each board -- 3/16 or 1/4 inch will do -- just as recommended for decks
I did stain the woodwork as shown in the third photo in post #2, but the stain hasn't lasted long on the horizontal surfaces. Preservative on cut ends is a good idea.

 

[GAP]

I used fibre concrete sheeting as my base, the majority of my posts are steel because of termites are a big concern.

8. Stage 2-June 2020 Baseboards Across the Yard completed

The base boards extending from the Lift Up Bridge gap, across the yard fronted by the lattice fence have been finished. This ...

ringbalin-light-railway.blogspot.com

 

[Paul M]

Looks a good design, as Chris says, use the best materials you can afford, sounds obvious, but scrimp at the on-set, and you'll have grief for ever!

 

[tac foley]

These bents are made of PT 2x2 deck balusters. A 4x4 would be plenty strong, but I think these look better out in plain sight -- an important consideration with The Power That Be

View attachment 342923
They sit on penny pavers, again to keep them away from direct soil contact.

In 'Newfish, we'd say 'powers that be's..........' I's surmazed to you, Bye.

 

[Rentrain]

We are using steel 2x3's here. Due to the need to someday move the layout to another backyard, we made table tops out of steel 2x3's. Each measures 72"x30". Running steel 2x3 channels along the long edge and 2x3 studs perpendicular in an open box frame format. Then topped with either foam core tile backer board or 1/2" exterior pressure treated plywood. Legs are usually pressure treated lumber sitting on concrete pads (cinder block wall toppers). Each table weighs very little but the steel is galvanized and holds up very well outdoors. Years and not a spot of rust. No warping or checking or weathering. Waterproof tile products are available that are lightweight and when painted create a great surface. GoBoard is a brand here in the States. We have loaded a table with close to 70lbs (a kid standing on it) and it's stable.

You can cut with heavy metal cutting shears or a steel saw blade or grinder. There are crimpers that can be used to connect the pieces or drill self tapping metal screws in. I crimp and then use the hole to drive a screw to lock it in. Downside is sharper edges and sometimes metal shavings.

Mike

 

[Paul M]

We are using steel 2x3's here. Due to the need to someday move the layout to another backyard, we made table tops out of steel 2x3's. Each measures 72"x30". Running steel 2x3 channels along the long edge and 2x3 studs perpendicular in an open box frame format. Then topped with either foam core tile backer board or 1/2" exterior pressure treated plywood. Legs are usually pressure treated lumber sitting on concrete pads (cinder block wall toppers). Each table weighs very little but the steel is galvanized and holds up very well outdoors. Years and not a spot of rust. No warping or checking or weathering. Waterproof tile products are available that are lightweight and when painted create a great surface. GoBoard is a brand here in the States. We have loaded a table with close to 70lbs (a kid standing on it) and it's stable.

You can cut with heavy metal cutting shears or a steel saw blade or grinder. There are crimpers that can be used to connect the pieces or drill self tapping metal screws in. I crimp and then use the hole to drive a screw to lock it in. Downside is sharper edges and sometimes metal shavings.

Mike

That sounds really heavy! 2 X 3 seems huge in metal, or am I missing something?

 

[grizzmo]

That sounds really heavy! 2 X 3 seems huge in metal, or am I missing something?

I think it sounds like the metal house framing ? We use it Aus instead of timber for stud walls, a pain to run cables through. Its very thin and lightweight

 

[korm kormsen]

the majority of my posts are steel because of termites are a big concern.

down here termites can even be disturbing inside the buildings.
that made me go the "iron-way"

than there is another point of view: most layouts (inside or out) sooner or later will be changed or moved.

so i opted for structural angles for storage racks. i have never seen termites building 2 ½ ft long tunnels. (btw, i neither saw termite hollow out foam)
these angles are easy cut, even easier bolted together, movable and recyclable for the next layout.

 

[GAP]

down here termites can even be disturbing inside the buildings.
that made me go the "iron-way"

than there is another point of view: most layouts (inside or out) sooner or later will be changed or moved.

so i opted for structural angles for storage racks. i have never seen termites building 2 ½ ft long tunnels. (btw, i neither saw termite hollow out foam)
these angles are easy cut, even easier bolted together, movable and recyclable for the next layout.

View attachment 343121

In Australia some of our white ant (Termites) hills can be well over 6 foot high

 

[Chris Vernell]

I think it sounds like the metal house framing ? We use it Aus instead of timber for stud walls, a pain to run cables through. Its very thin and lightweight

Commercial buildings here often/usually use metal studs instead of wood 2x4s. AFAIK, they come with holes for utilities, and I believe some people have used them for model railway construction.

In Australia some of our white ant (Termites) hills can be well over 6 foot high

View attachment 343191

You could sling a Wuppertal Schwebebahn off that

 

[GAP]

View attachment 343223
Commercial buildings here often/usually use metal studs instead of wood 2x4s. AFAIK, they come with holes for utilities, and I believe some people have used them for model railway construction.


You could sling a Wuppertal Schwebebahn off that

I used something like this but in longer lengths for posts and for a long run on my layout

https://www.bunnings.com.au/australian-handyman-supplies-100-x-50-x-3m-galvanised-c-purlin-fence-rail_p0911005

Disguised as a bridge, track screwed to purlin, house framing to support fence paling deck

 

[gamecoder.nz]

That is looking really good. I'm on a similar journey to you, I have a rough patch at the back of the section which was severely overgrown and used as a dumping ground by the previous owners. It took a while but I have reclaimed the land from all the vines and I'm finally in a position to bring my layout to fruition. I want mine on raised garden beds and I know it's going to be quite a project but I really want to do this and I've been inspired by other layouts I've seen in videos. I wish you all the best in your layout and make sure you update us on your progress.

 

[walkerart]

Your design looks good. There is no single "correct" way to build these things.
Concrete deck blocks work very well. I use them because digging into our soil requires jackhammers and dynamite, and getting deep enough (48"+) to avoid frost heave is next to impossible -- not so much a problem down your way

View attachment 342920
I use pavers under the deck blocks to prevent the blocks from sinking into the ground during spring thaw.

View attachment 342921
Some legs are PT lumber on concrete pavers without deck blocks.

View attachment 342922
I used PT fence boards for the planking here. I use solid lumber throughout: Plywood, even "external grade", will not survive long under Ma Nature's thrashing.

The footing is a good idea.... however have a look at decking feet they make plastic ones that are smaller and they screw up and down to level the deck. About £17 for 10 here in the uk.
Are you in the US / Canada.
Im just about to start building my bents for a risen railroad in the UK so thank you so much for your idea of feet ive just looked them up.
About half of my track will be on gravel so they will really help. We are brining the track up so its table height and able to deliver drinks to the garden table.

Look up the restuarant in Prague that delivers all its food and drink using G guage trains. Its so wonderful.

Thanks
Chris W

 

[PhilP]

About half of my track will be on gravel so they will really help. We are brining the track up so its table height and able to deliver drinks to the garden table.

If your raised track will have its 'feet' sitting on gravel:
Put a small slab / tile / block-paviour, under the foot to spread the load. - Else they will settle/sink, and you will be forever making adjustments.

PhilP.