Laying Piko R5 points - what radius are they?

[trammayo]

I decided it was too cold to mix and lay concrete this morning, there was nothing on the goggle box worth attention so I decided to have a go at changing some R1 points to my newly obtained Piko R5's (I've one of each hand.

The Ri's are a mixture of Aristcraft and LGB - and I have a stainless set to match the radius of the Piko one.

I think that the R5 is the same as LGB R3 - but I haven't a clue as to the radius or diameter - perhaps someone might expand my scant knowledge.

Anyway, pending an answer, I've been busy replacing the pair of L/H R1's. Here's a few pics;-

The first three show where I need to change them (when I can afford some more - need another nine sets {not all replacements} which will cost nearly £500!)

And the bottom two are "before and after".

More in next post

Mick

 

[Gizzy]

Hullo Mick,
Piko R5 are equivalent to LGB R3 as you have surmised.

More details can be found here....

http://www.gaugemaster.com/piko/Piko-G-Scale-Track.pdf

 

[trammayo]

I know that the stainless and the shiny brass look a little (well a lot) incongruous, but I'm hoping time will dull the impact. I saved over £30 (compared to the brass price) on the S/H St.St. set and over £20 on one of the Piko sets on ebay - couldn't believe my luck!

I used the Piko connectors and Aristo ones - drilling and tapping the cut track as well as the opposing ends of the Piko set.

It was a case of two birds with one stone! A while ago, I purchased a Circus loco from Delivery of Oblivion (he was selling it for a friend) and only clapped eyes on it this week as it was delivered to my son's to save on postage. I wanted to test the points and this loco was ready to hand.

Here's some more pics;-

This shows the loco on an R1 point - the blind driver is nowhere near the rails!

It doesn't look too bad (position-wise that is on the R1

And on the R5 or R3?

The loco runs fine by the way Ade. That's will be another project for the trailer layout - rolling stock, big top etc.

More to follow.

Mick

 

[trammayo]

Thanks Gizzy - 4ft radius (that's not bad at all). They are great for trailing use - so easy to move over by loco. I'm not so happy with the Aristo set in facing mode - may swap the two around.

I took a couple of pics to show the difference - the Piko ones have the railhead cut away to allow the blade to recess. The tongue of the blade is also ground away to direct wheel flanges better.

Aristo

Piko

I did try an Aristo 8-wheel caboose on the Aristo points and one bogie went straight on and the other took rthe curve. Maybe the price I paid reflects the problem?

Mick

 

[whatlep]

I think that the R5 is the same as LGB R3 - but I haven't a clue as to the radius or diameter - perhaps someone might expand my scant knowledge.

They're not quite the same, but near enough as to make no difference in practice. See my review of the Piko R5 vs. LGB R3 here for full details: http://www.gscalecentral.net/m63991

 

[trammayo]

Just a couple more pics showing where I would like to re-instal points and trackwork. When I built my first outdoor portable layout I robbed four sets of R1 points from the garden layout and never replaced them. The big haulers never liked the crossovers I made so I wasn't too fussed.

Now I want to extend my line and to be able to change from inner to outer )or vice versa). At the moment, changing from one track to the other is done by the rather circuitous trestle line at 1 in 30!.

From the outer circle.

To the inner circle - at the moment this line goes from the inner to the outer only.

The other side (from pic 1) - viewed towards the outer/main line.

So, still plenty more to do just on the existing track!.

Mick

 

[trammayo]

Thanks Peter!

I did read your post originally, together with the replies, and that gave me the impetus to go for Piko. I needed some R1's for my trailer layout and it seemed silly to buy new ones when, for a few quid more I could have a larger radius in the garden on a "swaps" basis. Trouble is - a long time on - my memory keeps letting me down!

Mick

 

[trammayo]

Oh, I almost forgot - the points and curves in my last "pics" posting will also be replaced (in due course - but don't hold yer breath).

Mick

 

[Gizzy]

Do you have a track plan Mick?

The diamond crossover is 'interesting', as it seems to be bereft of any sleepers....

 

[trammayo]

Do you have a track plan Mick?

The diamond crossover is 'interesting', as it seems to be bereft of any sleepers....

I have a rough plan somewhere - I'll try and find it (my problem is that I don't know how to reduce the size (Kb-wise that it is) of drawings - pictures are easy in MS Picture-it.

The crossing is home made as you can see. The sleepers are longitudanal under the rails and the main running rails are continuous - just cut down to base to allow continuity - and originally the crossing was infilled with plywood to represent a close paving of sleepers. The weather got the better of the glue used on the ply.
Insulation is Miliput and forms a hard wearing surface.

If, and when, I get round to replacing the R1 curves and point here, I will go for a propietory crossing or see if I can add permanent colour to the Miliput (which I think does come in three different colours).

Mick

 

[trammayo]

Here are some exceedingly rough plans - as was, as is, as could be. Sometime I'm going to do the job properly.

The new extension would add another 110 feet of track. There is a 3 metre wide drive (garage entrance - not used for car!) and a footpath to crossm not forgetting the freight depot (control station) to get around - next to where the new track will hopefully start) - plus the bit of topiary which was a Leylandii before this winter!

If the tree survives its harder work but if it doesn't I'll be one of the t'ree fellas. Then there is the question of crossing the drive - not a bridge too far I might add but an interesting project I will post once I start.

The track will be level so therefor it will be elevated all the way. The return loop will probably be radius 2 as I have restricted space (gateway).

So here are the four versions:-

Mick

 

[whatlep]

Gradual expansion to cover the whole of the garden. Good man!!

 

[CoggesRailway]

Hey I'm loving that long run your going to stick on - nothing like an extension! Nicely thought through plan so fsr too...

 

[trammayo]

Gradual expansion to cover the whole of the garden. Good man!!

I hope you notice the car sleeps out - trouble is my vintage 3-wheeler truck is in the garage. Now, if I could sell the truck it wouldn't be just the garden

Mick

 

[trammayo]

Hey I'm loving that long run your going to stick on - nothing like an extension! Nicely thought through plan so fsr too...

I had thought of a level crossing by the main gate but then if somebody got hit by a train ......

You're too conplimentary with the "nicely thought through" bit. Truth is I keep expanding within the confines of the existing layout and need to escape!

When i dredged up the plans I had actually never really measured the site - it actually covers 23 x 16 feet (not 20 x 11). And the extension needs 144 ft of track!
That's the trouble with guesstimating!

Mick

 

[trammayo]

I managed to fit my one remaming Piko point this morning. As it was on a curve (the old one was R1 and didn't present much of a problem) I had to mess about and apply a small curve to the straight part. The straight does show up - apart from being bright - but is was the best that could be achieved.

1. The old points - often the source of derailments given the change in gradient and the sharpness of the curve.

The new set - a much better transition.

Looking clockwise.

Ballasted with the "fines" riddled from the old driveway stone.

Not tested yet - weather a little mediocre.

Mick

 

[Rhinochugger]

That circus loco (Keystone, Buddy 'L' whatever brand it comes under) will happily go round LGB R3/Piko R5/8 foot diameter.

In standard form, the front pony truck sometimes looks as if it's in purgatory on those curves. Simple butchery with bits of plastic to extend the length of the pony truck, and move the pivot point back towards the line of the leading axle, will make it behave much better

The other thing is to lubricate the axle bearings with some conductive oil (Peco Electrolube or the Bachmann equivalent). I wore the bearings out on my main drivers, after the loco had run (by my 1:1 calculations) about 4 full miles, due to lack of lubrication. That's why my 2-6-2 is now a 2-8-2

 

[Steve]

What a great looking railway can we have more pics please ?

 

[Willem WDLS]

Looks great!

I ordered two PIKO R5 points too, hope they arrive today or after the weekend..:admire:

 

[trammayo]

That circus loco (Keystone, Buddy 'L' whatever brand it comes under) will happily go round LGB R3/Piko R5/8 foot diameter.

In standard form, the front pony truck sometimes looks as if it's in purgatory on those curves. Simple butchery with bits of plastic to extend the length of the pony truck, and move the pivot point back towards the line of the leading axle, will make it behave much better

The other thing is to lubricate the axle bearings with some conductive oil (Peco Electrolube or the Bachmann equivalent). I wore the bearings out on my main drivers, after the loco had run (by my 1:1 calculations) about 4 full miles, due to lack of lubrication. That's why my 2-6-2 is now a 2-8-2

Many thanks for your advice - I seem to remember something about fettling the pony trucks on here or GSM. As it is primarily intended for my trailer layout (to entertain the kids - large or small), all curves and points are R1 with several reverse curves - all a quart in a pint pot - My Buddy L crabs the truck down the line until it hits the points or another curve so will def follow your advice!

Prior to every season, I clean and lube all my locos and stock as it is good practise but I heed what you say about the driving axles!

Cheers,

Mick

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