Kadee #907 vs LGB #64193 Knuckle Couplers

dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
17,828
72
St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
So, great discussion here. I have used Kadee for years in HO scale and would never think of anything but body mount (except some pesky long passenger cars that I shouldn't really be running on my layout anyhow). Alas, the world of G is a totally different animal. Especially when I am faced with the super tight radius curves that were built into the display layout I am trying to improve for my local dentists office. Took a newly refurbished USATrains Geep over there today to see how it would run. It ran fine but barely made the curves and clearances had to be adjusted here and there. Too much swing on those tight curves. Then there was the couple issue. I had thrown a hook coupler on the back to match with his LGB stock. So it's body mounted and didn't swivel. Ha ha to that. Drug every car off the track at the first curve. I didn't have a lot of time to fiddle with it today, but obviously that won't work. If I loosen the screw and let the hook swivel will I get any better results? Or, is this track just doomed to use short cute steamers and truck mounted couplers? To put it another way, how do I get enough swing out of the couplers on a slightly longer loco. This just goes round and round and nobody ever couples and uncouples cars so maybe I should just chain 'em all together! Or maybe just screw on drawbars! Thoughts?
Link and pin work fine are easy to make and fit. Problem is that a derailment will bring the complete train off, not what you want on a high line! Personally I would stick with LGB hook and loop, simple to fit on LGB plus Bachman as well are compatible but Thomas stuff is a different matter and needs the supplied adapters to make hight correct.
 
F

Fred Mills

Registered
27 Mar 2017
2,128
78
Ottawa/Nepean, Ontario Canada
So, great discussion here. I have used Kadee for years in HO scale and would never think of anything but body mount (except some pesky long passenger cars that I shouldn't really be running on my layout anyhow). Alas, the world of G is a totally different animal. Especially when I am faced with the super tight radius curves that were built into the display layout I am trying to improve for my local dentists office. Took a newly refurbished USATrains Geep over there today to see how it would run. It ran fine but barely made the curves and clearances had to be adjusted here and there. Too much swing on those tight curves. Then there was the couple issue. I had thrown a hook coupler on the back to match with his LGB stock. So it's body mounted and didn't swivel. Ha ha to that. Drug every car off the track at the first curve. I didn't have a lot of time to fiddle with it today, but obviously that won't work. If I loosen the screw and let the hook swivel will I get any better results? Or, is this track just doomed to use short cute steamers and truck mounted couplers? To put it another way, how do I get enough swing out of the couplers on a slightly longer loco. This just goes round and round and nobody ever couples and uncouples cars so maybe I should just chain 'em all together! Or maybe just screw on drawbars! Thoughts?
For a display layout in an office, with those tight curves, up near the ceiling... GO WITH THE LITTLE TRAINS, and give up on the larger stuff...most people visiting the office won't care, and you will end up with less grief and maintenance. Been there, done that....
 
The Tinker

The Tinker

Every day I wake up is a good day
6 Feb 2014
294
Whangamata New Zealand
Link and pin work fine are easy to make and fit. Problem is that a derailment will bring the complete train off, not what you want on a high line! Personally I would stick with LGB hook and loop, simple to fit on LGB plus Bachman as well are compatible but Thomas stuff is a different matter and needs the supplied adapters to make hight correct.
Not if you use fishing swivels as the links
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
17,828
72
St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
Not if you use fishing swivels as the links
Ah but how many would think of that one? But sounds like a solution though when I used them I did find them a bit of a faff to deal with and I imagine shunting may be a bit of an issue with the Fishing Links.
 
RkyGriz

RkyGriz

Registered
13 Feb 2019
146
Silver Springs, Nevada
" Not if you use fishing swivels as the links ".
I love that! It combines my #1 hobby (fishing) with my #2 hobby(trains). Very clever !
As to my OP, I've gone with the Kadee #831 truck mounted couplers. Been picking them up cheap on Ebay.
They are working great, and easily fit the majority of my G Scale trains.
Andrew
 
DVS4G

DVS4G

RR Dave
25 Apr 2020
49
58
Idaho
Well it sounds like the key here is to "make it work". Especially as the whole thing is up high enough that nobody can really see the "couplers" and most don't care or know what they are looking at anyway. I wonder if there is some way to truck mount a coupler to these USA Trains motor bricks that this GP7 uses? The end of the motor brick is pretty close to the end of the loco. Just might have body clearance issues as it swings. Hmm... They have fallen in love with this engine and want me to purchase one for their railroad. But if I can't figure out a coupler solution, I'm afraid it won't be terribly practical for them without relaying wider curves. Perhaps rebuilding their Forney locos will be a better option in the long run.
 
DVS4G

DVS4G

RR Dave
25 Apr 2020
49
58
Idaho
It's the R1 LGB stuff. So, basically 4 foot diameter , right? I was thinking an Alco S4 might work since it's only 17 ¼ inches long and says it works on the 4 foot stuff. I ordered one from Lehighton Hobbies and then got a notice of refund back saying they were sold out. I have looked at Gregs pages on S4 and they seem to use the same motor bricks the the GP7/9 and F units use. Is that correct? Then, while wandering around looking for short diesel units I came across the 44 tonner. Sweet, even shorter. In looking to see if Greg had a page on them (of course, he does) I notice that they have a motor brick with coupler mounting tabs on the end of the brick. I can't seem to find those for sale anywhere (so far). Anybody know what the axle spacing is on these or if they are the same motor brick but just with coupler tabs? Greg, you have a couple right? Your page is good but has not been updated for a couple of years. What more can you tell us?
 
Greg Elmassian

Greg Elmassian

Registered
8 Mar 2014
4,147
San Diego
www.elmassian.com
So the OP is RkyGriz, and apparently he got he answer.

So RR Dave, you have a new set of questions. The S4 uses different motor blocks from the GP7/9.

The 44 tonners are in very short supply, again different motor blocks since the coupler mounts on the truck.

I have two 44 tonners to match the 2 paint schemes that Santa Fe had. I also have a used one a club member wanted to sell, but all the axles need replacing. The body is fine, the motors are fine the axles need replacing due to someone taking it apart and reassembling wrong. The cost to repair is almost what the used value is in my opinion, but again these are scarce. Email me if interested, it is a Burlington

You are really pushing the limit with R1, you should stick to really small stuff. I am not sure the 44 tonner would negotiate those curves, nor would knuckle couplers work well. It's not just the wheelbase of the motor block, but the length of the loco, and really how far the trucks can swivel in the chassis. I only had R1 curves for a few weeks when I found virtually nothing I wanted to run would go around them.

I'm afraid you are stuck with short locos and short cars, and perhaps even hook and loop couplers in many cases.
 
DVS4G

DVS4G

RR Dave
25 Apr 2020
49
58
Idaho
Ahh...sorry about the bad forum etiquette. Guess new questions should have a new thread started? Please advise.
 
DVS4G

DVS4G

RR Dave
25 Apr 2020
49
58
Idaho
I shall start a new thread.