Jumping on pointwork

[Rhinochugger]

LGB R3 points are the spawn of the devil anyway, due to a design fault that has never been corrected - the check rails are too short

I got rid of my two and bought Aristo 10ft and I don't care that the sleeper spacing is wrong - I'd rather have trains running through smoothly than whacking the tip of the frog every time

 

[Ralphmp]

LGB R3 points are the spawn of the devil anyway, due to a design fault that has never been corrected - the check rails are too short

I got rid of my two and bought Aristo 10ft and I don't care that the sleeper spacing is wrong - I'd rather have trains running through smoothly than whacking the tip of the frog every time

I’d heard of this issue but I guess if it hasn’t caused me a problem I’m best ignoring it for now. I seem to recall a post on here / GSM that described a kit from a guy in Germany that added a brass overlay to the check rail to address the problem?

 

[Rhinochugger]

I’d heard of this issue but I guess if it hasn’t caused me a problem I’m best ignoring it for now. I seem to recall a post on here / GSM that described a kit from a guy in Germany that added a brass overlay to the check rail to address the problem?

Yes, and yes.

If it ain't broken, don't fix it

I just like to have my regular rant about that particular product - it makes me fell better

 

[idlemarvel]

I’d heard of this issue but I guess if it hasn’t caused me a problem I’m best ignoring it for now. I seem to recall a post on here / GSM that described a kit from a guy in Germany that added a brass overlay to the check rail to address the problem?

The "guy in Germany" is Bertram Heyn, he sells among many other things brass strips that fit on the check rails of LGB R1 or R3 points. Very easy to install, they improve performance and reduce stalling. I have them on all my R1 points and my R3 point when I had one.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

let's not start on LGB, the OP's issue is on Aristo 10' diameter / "wide radius" switches.

so, DRG11, did you have any more quesitons?

As a help, if you run the train really slowly, can you still get the "jump" at the frog? If you can repeat it, see if you can stop the train and see if it is a case of the flange hitting the frog (out of the flangeway).

This is normally fixed with proper gauging. As I note, some of the WR frogs are too high, and can be filed/sanded down, but you will have to deepen the flangeways to make up for the material removed.... if the frog is higher than the surrounding rails is is what should be done.

But first, see if you can see exactly what happens.

Greg