Sounds like a really interesting project. Glad to hear my blog has been useful. Happy to help if you want to know anything but it looks like you know what you're doing, Tom.
All the best with the build.
Rik
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Irish engine bashed from Big Hauler
- Thread starter QC Rwy.
- Start date
All the best with the build.
Rik
In case it helps, I shortened the drive rod at the 'little' end and used a small screw to attached to the crosshead.
Great project,interesting build as IMO Irish stock not well represented in modeling circles,keeping an eye on this one,keep posting and pics,,lots of pics
I couldn't agree more, especially when you look at those delicious 4-8-0 Lough Swilly tender locos. If only I could justify running one of those on the PLR!Great project,interesting build as IMO Irish stock not well represented in modeling circles,keeping an eye on this one,keep posting and pics,,lots of pics
Rik
Thanks Greg.......I think will work perfectly for me! Appreciate you jumping in with recommendations. I've been modeling in 1/4" scale narrow gauge for many years now and moving up to 16mm (or 15mm) scale is presenting a whole bunch of new issues to tackle. Let's of fun working with tiny bits you can actually "see". 
I'd love to find an appropriate chassis for the Swilly 4-8-4 tanks!........now there is truely a "beast" to love.......tom
Great start. Looking forward to seeing your build. I love bashing the big huskers.
Hi, I just found the Caledonia artwork on Google somewhere using a search for 'IoM Caledonia' or something like that.
I have a similar issue with shortening the rods on an anniversary chassis for a 2-6-2 prairie conversion. Mine are metal though. I think on the plastic rod you could cut off the big end then file out a slightly tapered pocket in the recessed part so the shortened tapered rod fits snugly in there. That will give you a dovetail join and a greater gluing surface than just a simple butt join.
Are you going to incline the piston? Remember the center of the piston should be inline with the axle on the driven wheel.
It will be good so see the progress.
Thanks for the response of the artwork.......beautiful work itself, but also spurs my interest for a second conversion once this one is done.
Regarding the inclined pistons.....while most of the Irish engines I've spotted in my books are inclined, this particular engine happily appears to be straight, in line with the driver axles......tom
I did some experimentation with the styrene/foam board in mentioned......the good news is it bends easily when warmed allowing me to give the two water tanks their distinctive rounded front. I'll try riveting up a thin styrene wrapper and see how it looks this evening......
Regarding the inclined pistons.....while most of the Irish engines I've spotted in my books are inclined, this particular engine happily appears to be straight, in line with the driver axles......tom
I did some experimentation with the styrene/foam board in mentioned......the good news is it bends easily when warmed allowing me to give the two water tanks their distinctive rounded front. I'll try riveting up a thin styrene wrapper and see how it looks this evening......
Couple of update photos on my B&L Rwy. #6 build.
I fabricated the two side tanks by bending styrene sheet and adding some internal support. Nothing too critical here.
I cut some thin brass sheet for the tank wrapper. I used an old fabric hem tool to emboss rivets along the outside edges and vertically matching what I could see in the photos. (sure I could have drilled 1,000 holes and inserted individual rivets eh!)
. I used contact cement to attach the brass to the tank sides.
Checking again on the fit of the footplate to the cylinders and boiler saddle I felt the boiler sat a bit too high so I sanded the saddle to fit and removed a bit of the original chassis to achieve a level fit. This was made easy with a new Japanese flexible saw that made quick work of it.The blade on this saw is only about 7" long.
I used the saw to remove part of the steam chest. This lowered the footplate (now with a styrene reinforcing edge) flat onto the cylinders. This really helped lowering the boiler down to where it looked "correct" relative to the photos.
I fabricated the two side tanks by bending styrene sheet and adding some internal support. Nothing too critical here.
I cut some thin brass sheet for the tank wrapper. I used an old fabric hem tool to emboss rivets along the outside edges and vertically matching what I could see in the photos. (sure I could have drilled 1,000 holes and inserted individual rivets eh!)
. I used contact cement to attach the brass to the tank sides.
Checking again on the fit of the footplate to the cylinders and boiler saddle I felt the boiler sat a bit too high so I sanded the saddle to fit and removed a bit of the original chassis to achieve a level fit. This was made easy with a new Japanese flexible saw that made quick work of it.The blade on this saw is only about 7" long.
I used the saw to remove part of the steam chest. This lowered the footplate (now with a styrene reinforcing edge) flat onto the cylinders. This really helped lowering the boiler down to where it looked "correct" relative to the photos.
Duh! sorry on the duplicate pics......( insert BANG HEAD HERE! sign
)
I'll try again later......(will take a short nappie!). tom
)I'll try again later......(will take a short nappie!). tom
Magnificent start made, Tom. Beautiful curve on those tank front corners and the use of the brass shim as an overlay is clever, as is your use of the hemming tool. As you say, individually embossing each rivet is a nightmare. Some neat ideas - will certainly be borrowing a few.
Rik
PS - I've heard about those Japanese saws. A wargaming mate of mine swears by his (I just swear AT my Xacto razor saw!).
Rik
PS - I've heard about those Japanese saws. A wargaming mate of mine swears by his (I just swear AT my Xacto razor saw!).
I can highly recommend the Japanese flush-cutting saws. Very handy for woodwork and ... cough ... other things.
In fact, I like Japanese saws in general.
I've been doing a lot of "fitting and checking" sub assemblies as I've built them (tanks etc.) and began cleaning up the front end.
A real "blank slate"! This is where the modified cylinder and boiler saddle will sit.
The footplate (running boards) is next. There is some checking to make sure I've got enough room for drivers and connecting rods to pass without any interference. Also I've got to figure a way to attach the new buffer beam.
Looks good but the photo is revealing an uneven cut I made to the original frame......got to clean that up as it interfere with the boiler sitting level later.
Here is the support that will hold the new buffer beam. Notice I decided to add a 1/4" wood spacer just behind the saddle. In checking the photos I have of B&L Rwy #6 it looked too close to the lead driver in the original position.
The buffer block will be wood and these to wood supports should give me plenty of surface area to attach to. I'll make the buffer as another sub assembly and then add it to the front end.
Next up will be the cab.......tom
A real "blank slate"! This is where the modified cylinder and boiler saddle will sit.
The footplate (running boards) is next. There is some checking to make sure I've got enough room for drivers and connecting rods to pass without any interference. Also I've got to figure a way to attach the new buffer beam.
Looks good but the photo is revealing an uneven cut I made to the original frame......got to clean that up as it interfere with the boiler sitting level later.
Here is the support that will hold the new buffer beam. Notice I decided to add a 1/4" wood spacer just behind the saddle. In checking the photos I have of B&L Rwy #6 it looked too close to the lead driver in the original position.
The buffer block will be wood and these to wood supports should give me plenty of surface area to attach to. I'll make the buffer as another sub assembly and then add it to the front end.
Next up will be the cab.......tom
I have a couple of Japaneese Bonsai Gardening Tools, cost buckets of dosh but well worth it in the long run.
Made a start on the cab. Again, without an actual plan to work from, I've been estimating using the size of the driver in the photo....that and keeping the whole outline in perspective given the difference in driver size and spacing.
I pulled out some hardwood that I had purchased in one of those "bag lots" at a local craft store. Lot's of odd sized cut offs at quite good prices.
I laid out the windows for the rear cab wall. You can see that I divided the wood into two pieces in order to make cutting out the windows and easier process. These pieces will be re-inforced on the inside and will also have the brass sheeting glued to them.
The cab sides were laid out and glued to card stock. I think I'll be ok with the card stock after a couple of coats of sealer and paint.
As you can see, I need a better (cleaner and more precise way of cutting out very thin brass sheet stock......any ideas appreciated here! Very tiny scissors?.......probably a laser cutter would do the job.....or maybe learn how to etch brass?
BTW......I used a large frying pan from the kitchen stock to draw the outline of the cab roof!
Appreciate any comments you may have on improving my processes........tom
I pulled out some hardwood that I had purchased in one of those "bag lots" at a local craft store. Lot's of odd sized cut offs at quite good prices.
I laid out the windows for the rear cab wall. You can see that I divided the wood into two pieces in order to make cutting out the windows and easier process. These pieces will be re-inforced on the inside and will also have the brass sheeting glued to them.
The cab sides were laid out and glued to card stock. I think I'll be ok with the card stock after a couple of coats of sealer and paint.
As you can see, I need a better (cleaner and more precise way of cutting out very thin brass sheet stock......any ideas appreciated here! Very tiny scissors?.......probably a laser cutter would do the job.....or maybe learn how to etch brass?
BTW......I used a large frying pan from the kitchen stock to draw the outline of the cab roof!
Appreciate any comments you may have on improving my processes........tom
I have a ready-made dome AND a brass chimney that might well serve your purpose - if you want them, please let me know.
tac
tac
I need your address - please PM me. Unless you can wait until I am back over in Oregon sometime in September. It's no big deal.
tac
OVGRS
Port Orford Coast RR - Eastern Sub
tac
OVGRS
Port Orford Coast RR - Eastern Sub