Well that's odd somehow I've just posted as MUNS!!!!
We have a gremlin as I was logged in as me, PaulRhB
How did that happen????
We have a gremlin as I was logged in as me, PaulRhB
How did that happen????
Installing Battery & RC in an Accucraft Cali
- Thread starter muns
- Start date
Ok seconda attempt after logging out and back in again!
Off the Accucraft website originally but I can't find it anymore so here's my saved copy.
Taking it apart.
To remove the body: The body is held down by six M2 hex headed bolts, two under each tank and two in the bunker. The cab door handrails are either held down by nuts on the underside of the footplate, or are a push fit and require withdrawing upwards. Care should be taken when sliding the body back by a few millimetres to clear the pipe that goes into the cab on the right hand side. Two weights, one in each side tank, will be found bolted to the foot plate with cross head screws. If the space is required these can be removed.
To remove the boiler: This unit is bolted down to the footplate with four M2 hex headed bolts, two under the smoke box area, and two through the angle plate in the cab to the rear of the firebox. You will now have easy access to the motor and wiring harness.
If you wish to fit a DCC decoder it must be ‘hard wired’ between the electrical pick ups and the motor. If you are fitting batteries and radio control we strongly suggest either the fitting of a ‘double pole double throw’ switch so you can switch between either track power or battery power, or the complete disconnection of the track power wires and the isolation of them.
We recommend keeping the model clean at all times, a wipe over with a clean cloth is all that should be required. Under no circumstances should cleaning solvents be used as these could damage the protective clear coat and the delicate lining and transfers. Dirt and grit on the motion can cause wear and premature failure of the rods.
Off the Accucraft website originally but I can't find it anymore so here's my saved copy.
Taking it apart.
To remove the body: The body is held down by six M2 hex headed bolts, two under each tank and two in the bunker. The cab door handrails are either held down by nuts on the underside of the footplate, or are a push fit and require withdrawing upwards. Care should be taken when sliding the body back by a few millimetres to clear the pipe that goes into the cab on the right hand side. Two weights, one in each side tank, will be found bolted to the foot plate with cross head screws. If the space is required these can be removed.
To remove the boiler: This unit is bolted down to the footplate with four M2 hex headed bolts, two under the smoke box area, and two through the angle plate in the cab to the rear of the firebox. You will now have easy access to the motor and wiring harness.
If you wish to fit a DCC decoder it must be ‘hard wired’ between the electrical pick ups and the motor. If you are fitting batteries and radio control we strongly suggest either the fitting of a ‘double pole double throw’ switch so you can switch between either track power or battery power, or the complete disconnection of the track power wires and the isolation of them.
We recommend keeping the model clean at all times, a wipe over with a clean cloth is all that should be required. Under no circumstances should cleaning solvents be used as these could damage the protective clear coat and the delicate lining and transfers. Dirt and grit on the motion can cause wear and premature failure of the rods.
I recall reading a comment when these locos first came out that some people were unaware that the smokebox door opened and would have found decoder installation easier if they had realised.
It does but you still need to get the body off to rewire the motor. I'm fitting a plug and socket so the decoder can be slid out the smokebox complete with speaker on the Countess.