I think we've said that before, it may for a while but won't after a few laps, because everything will move. Also get hold of a proper voltmeter, those wand things are next to useless for what you're using it for
I am almost giving up. I am having a hard time getting my train to run outside so considering battery power.
- Thread starter TTaannggss
- Start date
tac foley
Registered
To run a train using batteries like that is an utter waste of your time and energy. No wonder you are frustrated. It's like filling a swimming pool by spoon.
You need AT least 2 AMPS continuous current at around 14 Volts to get any kind of results.
Also your track needs to be CLEAN and shiny to maintain good contact via your screwed-on/clamped-on or soldered-on connection.
Even the basic LGB unit will get you going...
You need AT least 2 AMPS continuous current at around 14 Volts to get any kind of results.
Also your track needs to be CLEAN and shiny to maintain good contact via your screwed-on/clamped-on or soldered-on connection.
Even the basic LGB unit will get you going...
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
It is a tight pressured touch ...I will put up a picture of the stuff I use to solder my house plumbing with later today if I can find it. It is a small bottle with a liquid in it. In the mean time I am going to take the shell off of the f unit and look for wiring to connect the battery to. I opened up the rear truck yesterday and did find wiring I might possibly be able to use.
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
A lot of "liquid solder" used for making joints with copper is not conductive, (ask me how I know). I suggest you confirm you are using a conductive liquid, otherwise you will constantly have issues.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
I will keeping an eye out for 2 amps 14 volts rechargable battery. Thanks for the info.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Ok got the shell off. To add the 9 volt battery pack I plan on snipping the white and red wires. The ones that are above the blue leash. So after snipping I will have 2 red wires and 2 white wires to the battery pack. As well it has dried out but this is the liquid I use to solder my household plumbing. It has copper in it apparently so should be conductive. I replaced the 10 gage wiring I was using with cheap home extension wire from the transformer. I James it into the rail joints. It worked but my other track joints are loosing conductivity fast.
Attachments
Greg Elmassian
Guest
You need a strong clamp to connect your 10 gauge to the rail. You were given good data.
That stuff is junk, it is not soldering, and is NOT for electricity, it is GLUE for copper pipes!!!
From the site:
Will not conduct electricity , Tensile strength in excess of 1000 psi
You were given great suggestions to make track power work, and you did not follow any of them except get large gauge wire.
You need to clamp, mechanically join the wire to the rail, where everything is clean, or has an electrical antioxidation compound.
I can guess you used nothing in the rest of the rail joints.
Sigh....
That stuff is junk, it is not soldering, and is NOT for electricity, it is GLUE for copper pipes!!!
From the site:
Will not conduct electricity , Tensile strength in excess of 1000 psi
You were given great suggestions to make track power work, and you did not follow any of them except get large gauge wire.
You need to clamp, mechanically join the wire to the rail, where everything is clean, or has an electrical antioxidation compound.
I can guess you used nothing in the rest of the rail joints.
Sigh....
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
Greg, though I did not know what being used, that was my very thought.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Well I did look for a clamp to secure the wire to the track from the transformer but they wanted like 50 online from usa. Shirley I can rig something up cheaper. Well what I did for wiring this morning seems to be working. And my engine sounds much better now. What is it you said to put in the joints? This morning I put small pieces of bare wire Jamed into the joints with bad connections. I really really prefer electric but see how it goes.
Maybe it would, but he doesn't listen to sensible suggestions.
Well that would work until the bits of wire fall out when the track moves. It might be a lot easier to listen or read what's been suggested to you. There's always going to be track/battery power squabbles, both have pros and cons, but you seem to ignore any advice given to you from experts in either method
Gerard
Registered
Well , it took me quite some time to read me trough all 90 replies.....
Looks like more threads are running at once making this story not much more clear.
I wonder what your goal is TTaannggss? Just running/playing around or building and running a stable track and well performing train control system?
For the latter I will gladly give you some advice:
First: you need a track with perfect electric joints so you can run your train the normal way. It is my experience that this can be very well achieved using Massoth double srew clamps and (made fluid) heat resistant copper grease in these clamps. They will run at least 7 years without any maintenance! So forget all the complicated track damaging soldering ideas.
If you finally got a quality track you than can use one of the great digital systems nowadays available. Such a system makes it very easy to run several locos at once and operate tens of switches! No wiring problems any more and a whole world of great train effects at your disposal!! I have a Zimo MX10 system with decoders in each loco and each switch, but there are cheaper systems on the market available. If you run only one trail you can simply use the original LGB power system. There is one thing you must keep in mind: clean your track every day, especially when is has been raining causing fine sand particles on the rails.
A stable base for your track is of course important and can be simply made by using cheep 1 m long concrete slabs 15cm wide and 5 cm thick laid in a layer of sand. It is my experience that you don't need any reinforcement in the slabs and in case of any necessary correction of the heigth of the slab later, this can be done very easy by using a spade and wedging some extra sand under the slab to bring the slab somewhat higher when needed, or reversed.
You can fix the rails to the concrete slab by drilling small holes (max 6mm) in it each 1,2 m. . For this you have to use a "concrete hammer dril" in combination with a self made sturdy drill position clamp that centers your drill exactly on top of the pre-holes in the rails. In order to make a curved base i myself used special slabs with rounded ends that fitted into each other, but you can also cut the concrete slabs in short parts using a manual powered "street tile cutter" and lay them in the disired curve.
As for a battery powered train. It is my experience that the Playmobile train system works perfect. The battery can be build in using a switch to power on and off (power on shows by the lights) and using a regular USB connection and a regular 5V USB charger. With this setup you can use the extremely powerfull Lithium ion batteries, without any danger of errors in the applied voltage during loading. The lithium battery has the great advantage that it allways delivers the max voltage until the battery is empty. For Playmobil this 5V works fine. These playmobile locs are on sale on the internet for not too high prices and they are very sturdy too.
So far my advice to you.
I hope this is of any use for you.
Should you have any questions, feel free to ask them.
Kind Regards
Gerard
Looks like more threads are running at once making this story not much more clear.
I wonder what your goal is TTaannggss? Just running/playing around or building and running a stable track and well performing train control system?
For the latter I will gladly give you some advice:
First: you need a track with perfect electric joints so you can run your train the normal way. It is my experience that this can be very well achieved using Massoth double srew clamps and (made fluid) heat resistant copper grease in these clamps. They will run at least 7 years without any maintenance! So forget all the complicated track damaging soldering ideas.
If you finally got a quality track you than can use one of the great digital systems nowadays available. Such a system makes it very easy to run several locos at once and operate tens of switches! No wiring problems any more and a whole world of great train effects at your disposal!! I have a Zimo MX10 system with decoders in each loco and each switch, but there are cheaper systems on the market available. If you run only one trail you can simply use the original LGB power system. There is one thing you must keep in mind: clean your track every day, especially when is has been raining causing fine sand particles on the rails.
A stable base for your track is of course important and can be simply made by using cheep 1 m long concrete slabs 15cm wide and 5 cm thick laid in a layer of sand. It is my experience that you don't need any reinforcement in the slabs and in case of any necessary correction of the heigth of the slab later, this can be done very easy by using a spade and wedging some extra sand under the slab to bring the slab somewhat higher when needed, or reversed.
You can fix the rails to the concrete slab by drilling small holes (max 6mm) in it each 1,2 m. . For this you have to use a "concrete hammer dril" in combination with a self made sturdy drill position clamp that centers your drill exactly on top of the pre-holes in the rails. In order to make a curved base i myself used special slabs with rounded ends that fitted into each other, but you can also cut the concrete slabs in short parts using a manual powered "street tile cutter" and lay them in the disired curve.
As for a battery powered train. It is my experience that the Playmobile train system works perfect. The battery can be build in using a switch to power on and off (power on shows by the lights) and using a regular USB connection and a regular 5V USB charger. With this setup you can use the extremely powerfull Lithium ion batteries, without any danger of errors in the applied voltage during loading. The lithium battery has the great advantage that it allways delivers the max voltage until the battery is empty. For Playmobil this 5V works fine. These playmobile locs are on sale on the internet for not too high prices and they are very sturdy too.
So far my advice to you.
I hope this is of any use for you.
Should you have any questions, feel free to ask them.
Kind Regards
Gerard
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
I found an LGB track connector on US eBay for 15USD.
LGB G Scale Track Feeder Clips 2pcs | 50161 for sale online | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for LGB G Scale Track Feeder Clips 2pcs | 50161 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
or even cheaper at just over 10USD
LGB of America - Track Feeder Clips -- pkg(2) - G 4011525501619 | eBay
Make your own track power cables. Each terminal has a thumbscrew rail clamp and wire connection lug.
www.ebay.com
Rik
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Greg Elmassian
Guest
The point is ASK, there are a ton of people here to help you track or battery.
But when you ignore suggestions or don't communicate, you get the results you have.
Here to help.
Greg
But when you ignore suggestions or don't communicate, you get the results you have.
Here to help.
Greg
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
I am asking and doing what I can with the advice provided. I just want my electric tracks to work out. So now the plan is to not fix what is not broken. I have power to the tracks. Now it is just the joints that are an issue not tissue. I am now using a better track electrification diagnosis tool as you recommended. I already had one and for didnt know it.
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TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Well tomorrow morning I plan on snipping small few cm long pieces of bare what looks like copper wire. I am only doing bad track connections for now and both sides/rails. I spray with a diluted bleach cleaner first then insert the bare wire. I will let you's know how this experiment turns out. As well shipping stuff to Canada now is very pricy. I am lucky I got what I got when I did.
OK, Here's my last attempt to provide some advice. Eurorail Hobbies in Canada has everything you need to get your track power properly functioning. Saves you the expense of postage and import duty from the States.
On rail clamps: Piko 35293 G G Metall-Schraubschienenverbinder 10
Over joiner rail clamps: Piko 35294 G G Metall-Schraubklemme fuer Schienenverbinder
LGB track power connectors/w leads: LGB 50160 G Track Power Wires
LGB connectors w/o leads attached: LGB 50161 G Track Feeder Wire Terminals, 2pcs
For rail joiners this is what I'd really recommend: Schienenverbinder 50 Stück Messing 15mm ML-Train 8100250 These rail clamps work very good. You do need to remove the stock rail joiners to use them though.
It will cost you 45 to 50 euros for shipping plus whatever import duty you may be charged by Canadian Customs. The much lower cost per clamp more than makes up for the shipping cost. Modell-Land is very good at getting things out. My two most recent orders from them were received within two to three weeks. My last order was in April of this year. When you open an account with them (from outside the EU) you will see prices without the Eurozone VAT. This amounts to a 17% price reduction. I use PayPal with them but you can probably use a credit card too.
On rail clamps: Piko 35293 G G Metall-Schraubschienenverbinder 10
Over joiner rail clamps: Piko 35294 G G Metall-Schraubklemme fuer Schienenverbinder
LGB track power connectors/w leads: LGB 50160 G Track Power Wires
LGB connectors w/o leads attached: LGB 50161 G Track Feeder Wire Terminals, 2pcs
For rail joiners this is what I'd really recommend: Schienenverbinder 50 Stück Messing 15mm ML-Train 8100250 These rail clamps work very good. You do need to remove the stock rail joiners to use them though.
It will cost you 45 to 50 euros for shipping plus whatever import duty you may be charged by Canadian Customs. The much lower cost per clamp more than makes up for the shipping cost. Modell-Land is very good at getting things out. My two most recent orders from them were received within two to three weeks. My last order was in April of this year. When you open an account with them (from outside the EU) you will see prices without the Eurozone VAT. This amounts to a 17% price reduction. I use PayPal with them but you can probably use a credit card too.
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TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Ya they are in British Columbia and they seem to not be very well stocked. With the high price of fuel Canada Post is charging a 30 percent sur charge. It is all good though with a few bumps along the way. Another advantage to battery power is that it is easy to put the engine belly up and clean it's wheels. Thanks for all the info. I will keep you posted as things progress.
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