FLEXTRACK from regular track ?????????????

hankbonaire

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Can I convert a cupla regular straight 4 footers into flextrack by removing some of the sleepers/ties ???
I want to make a few very easy transitions from curved to straight and vice versa.
Can I bend straight track minus some of the plastic ties ?? the brass rail will stay in place.
 

GAP

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I only use flex track but have done what you are asking in my HO/OO days, I even altered points.
This article is for OO but the same concept could be used for large scale track.
 
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korm kormsen

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Can I convert a cupla regular straight 4 footers into flextrack by removing some of the sleepers/ties ???

yes.
look in the pic below. if you take a side cutter and cut all the spaceholders of one side of the tie-web. (i prefer to cut those on the outer side of the curve to be built)
the original tie-webs for flextrack are cut alternatively on both sides. i don't like the resulting uneven tie spacing.



track02.JPG


are your four-footers from LGB? in that case dont forget, to loosen as well the rail connectors that they have every foot between tiewebs.

binder1.JPG

binder2.JPG

binder3.JPG





Can I bend straight track minus some of the plastic ties ?? the brass rail will stay in place.

yes.
you just need brute force or a railbender.

i always bend at first just one rail, slip it on the ties - and when i am content with the flow of the curve, i bend the second rail so, that it fits upon the empty side of the ties.
 
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dunnyrail

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Part of the problem with the 4ft lengths is the central fishplate, as has been said you can cut the webb to allow changes from dead straight but that fishplate can create issues but not allowing neat even movement of both rails. You will find odd differences each end on the rails tgat will need trimming when you bend those straights.
 

JimmyB

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I think most of the info is contained above, I have a number of Aristo-craft 5ft straights worked on as above and used as flexi track :)
 

hankbonaire

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Part of the problem with the 4ft lengths is the central fishplate, as has been said you can cut the webb to allow changes from dead straight but that fishplate can create issues but not allowing neat even movement of both rails. You will find odd differences each end on the rails tgat will need trimming when you bend those straights.
Question .......... why does a 4 foot section of rail need central fishplates ............. the rail has no joints to connect .......... can I simply remove the fishplates .???
 
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dunnyrail

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Question .......... why does a 4 foot section of rail need central fishplates ............. the rail has no joints to connect .......... can I simply remove the fishplates .???
They are to keep the section as a defined piece of the track geometry as if you look you will see that the sleepers are in fact 6 fishplates in the centre on the 4ft section these are to keep the 4x1ft sections of sleeper in place. Should be able to remove them but you will need to remove most of the rail both side first. Then when you put things back as there is no webb where the fishplates are you will need to get spacing correct by eye. I have done this but never bothered to replace the ‘unwanted’ fishplates back. Similar issue with the 2ft but only 2 additional fishplates in these.
 

Gizzy

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I have a single rail bender that I brought for a tenner at a local Model Railway Exhibition. I've used it to re-radius ART track as well as short lengths of LGB to fit awkward gaps.

Many years ago I used a Black & Decker Workmate to bend R1 curves to an approximate R2 by easing out the curve a little each time....
 

hankbonaire

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yes.
look in the pic below. if you take a side cutter and cut all the spaceholders of one side of the tie-web. (i prefer to cut those on the outer side of the curve to be built)
the original tie-webs for flextrack are cut alternatively on both sides. i don't like the resulting uneven tie spacing.



View attachment 318695


are your four-footers from LGB? in that case dont forget, to loosen as well the rail connectors that they have every foot between tiewebs.

View attachment 318696

View attachment 318697

View attachment 318698







yes.
you just need brute force or a railbender.

i always bend at first just one rail, slip it on the ties - and when i am content with the flow of the curve, i bend the second rail so, that it fits upon the empty side of the ties.

yes.
look in the pic below. if you take a side cutter and cut all the spaceholders of one side of the tie-web. (i prefer to cut those on the outer side of the curve to be built)
the original tie-webs for flextrack are cut alternatively on both sides. i don't like the resulting uneven tie spacing.



View attachment 318695


are your four-footers from LGB? in that case dont forget, to loosen as well the rail connectors that they have every foot between tiewebs.

View attachment 318696

View attachment 318697

View attachment 318698







yes.
you just need brute force or a railbender.

i always bend at first just one rail, slip it on the ties - and when i am content with the flow of the curve, i bend the second rail so, that it fits upon the empty side of the ties.
Brute force sounds appealing.................
 

hankbonaire

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BENDING an LGB STRAIGHT TRACK 4 FOOTER ..............

OK, lemme see if I have this right :

You remove ALL ? the tie webs on the proposed outside curve.
Do nothing to the inside curve except rip out the now offending rail joiners.
Bend the inside rail (brute force) to the desired curve.
Nail it down.
Then thread rail back thru' the outside curve ties.
Nail it down.
Trim both ends.
Add rail joiners.

Many thanks for all your help.
As you may have noticed I was "gone" for a while due to a stroke .............. still a bit wobbly at 85.
 

korm kormsen

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You remove ALL ? the tie webs on the proposed outside curve.
Do nothing to the inside curve except rip out the now offending rail joiners.
Bend the inside rail (brute force) to the desired curve.
Nail it down.
Then thread rail back thru' the outside curve ties.
Nail it down.
Trim both ends.
Add rail joiners.

not exactly.
you remove the end railjoiners and at least widen all the middle railjoiners enough, that the rails can slip throug.
you remove both rails from the tie webs.
you take one of the (naked) rails and bend it as your wanted curve needs. (if necessary you cut it to length) (inside or outside? as you like. i like to put the inside rail first)
then you cut on one side of the tie webs every connection between ties. (as the tiewebs are straight, it does not matter, which side)
you then slip the already bent rail into the side of the ties, where they are connected with each other, put a railjoiner to one end. (to the right one!)
join your "one-rail curve" at both ends with the other track. if necessary make corrections to the bend of your new curve.
take the other rail and bend it. how much? hold it over the empty railslots and you see, where to bend more, and where less. when bent to fit, cut it, if needed.
take up your curve and slip the second rail into the ties. fix the other railjoiner and reatach the now complete curve to the other track.
push the tiewebs around a bit, till they look evenly distributed. - and now is time to nail it down!

don't be afraid. from the second one on, it will take you less time to do, than it took me to write it.

ps: dont cut both ends! later on you will use the leftover lengths of rail. and one longer piece is better than two shorties.
pps: don't forget, that the inner and the outer rail of a curve have different lengths. (for starters it might be safer, to bend the outer rail first)

ppps: if you follow the above, you'll miss some mistakes i made at the beginning...
 

Dan

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I cut the plastic ties alternately just like the flex track you buy. I then use the Trainli rail bender to make any curve I need, even a reverse curve!! This was when you could get 8 foot rails.
 

hankbonaire

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Thank you Dan .......... i don't have a rail bender ........... some say cut all the ties on one side ............ others alternate every other tie on both curves ............. you still have the rail joiners at one foot intervals to contend with............ I only have 2 pieces of 4 footers to bend.
 

GAP

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Thank you Dan .......... i don't have a rail bender ........... some say cut all the ties on one side ............ others alternate every other tie on both curves ............. you still have the rail joiners at one foot intervals to contend with............ I only have 2 pieces of 4 footers to bend.
The belly bender is your friend.
Grab the rails at either end and bend them round your belly can leave a line of small bruises that may not be cosmetically pleasing :(
 

Paul M

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The belly bender is your friend.
Grab the rails at either end and bend them round your belly can leave a line of small bruises that may not be cosmetically pleasing :(
But an easy way to distort the track