First time with G scale

E

Edward Johns

Registered
26 May 2017
15
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Rayleigh
Good afternoon.

Although I have had HO railways for more years than I care to recall, I am brand new to G scale and the opportunities and challenges a garden railway brings. I have been fully digital in my HO layout for years now and love the freedom and functions it offers. As it happens my HO systems are Marklin mfx so LGB is a good starting place for me. Anyway I already have several questions about control systems and I hope someone out there will be able to offer advice and guidance so I get off to a solid start. Oh yes how much space I get is down to my wife who sees the garden as her "realm". Some serious negotiating will be needed I think!
 
Welcome EJ. Ask your questions. Someone (many) on here will give you answers.
 
Welcome to GSC, Edward (or do you prefer Ed?) - we've got a few people here who use Marklin's MFX system with a CS2 or CS3 controller, and a lot more who run DCC but using other control systems like Massoth - you'll usually be able to get a few useful answers to most questions, in between all the banter!

Have fun here, we're a pretty approachable (if irreverant) lot...... ;)

As to negotiations about garden space, show your Better Half some of the nicer videos of trains wending their way gently through beautifully planted gardens, and stress how well one can complement the other.... :devil:

Jon.
 
Well a quick welcome so many thanks for that. At my disposal I have the new Marklin CS3 and the latest ESU Ecos. For both I have power supplies that are for G scale. I bought the LGB "Weinachts" starter set before Xmas basically to have running indoors around the Xmas tree. I got from P&S Hobbbies. Incidentally terrific service as the owner called before sending it to me to make sure I had the correct digital equipment to run it. P&S fitted a digital chip and we had lots of fun with it. I have since bought a Piko BR64 and an ESU chip to go in it. I really like ESU and have 30+ Marklin HO locos running with ESU Lokpilots or Loksounds. I don't convert Marklin locos with mfx sound chips as they are OK as they are.

So my first question is about DCC out doors. Bearing in mind DCC needs really clan track and regular feeds every 2 metres or so what is the experience those running DCC on garden layouts.

My second is about cleaning track. I have bought a couple of the LGB track cleaners that attach to 4 wheel wagons. Similar HO systems work for me indoors but outdoors? So is the LGB track cleaning loco a worthwhile purchase bearing in mind it seems to sell at around £500.
Many thanks for any help, advice and guidance in advance.

OH yes I respond to Edward, Ed or Ted.
 
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Ed welcome to the Forum, for what it is worth syetems that rely on a mobile phone screen can be a bit tricky to use in full sun. Ok of course in muted light, this is why I personally would not go down the CS2/3 or similar route. Massoth works very well and is a great system, but of course since the trashing of the Pound so much more expensive. I guess you pays your money etc. What I would certainly recomend is a system that you can walk around the Garden with. Have you as a newcommer thought about Battery? No track cleaning and Rik has done some great treatise on the subject. Deltang and Peter Spoerer do very good systems in UK. There are other USA options, but radio compatibility is an issue.

As for Track cleaning with Track Power - there is nothing to beat a good scrub with the LGB Hand Track Cleaner, other options are OK but do not cut the mustard in comparison (in my view).

Good luck whatever route you choose, as said there is plenty of advice on this forum.
JonD
 
Hi Jon D.
Ok first off I also have the LGB hand cleaner and what a bit of a beast it is. I got it in Dortmund at Intermodellbau this year. I have looked at RC and battery and I see the attraction of it. I found Peter Spoerer's web site and have seen reference to Deltang as well.
Where do I find Rik's treatise, do I search the forums for it? If I went for RC it would be with a 2.4Ghz system as gets round the frequency problems of 40Ghz systems.

Is there any RC system that works with DCC/mfx locos?

Edward
 
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Edward Johns said:
Hi Jon D.
Ok first off I also have the LGB hand cleaner and what a bit of a beast it is. I got it in Dortmund at Intermodellbau this year. I have looked at RC and battery and I see the attraction of it. I found Peter Spoerer's web site and have seen reference to Deltang as well.
Where do I find Rik's treatise, do I search the forums for it? If I went for RC it would be with a 2.4Ghz system as gets round the frequency problems of 40Ghz systems.

Is there any RC system that works with DCC/mfx locos?

Edward
Click to expand...
Riks blog, plenty to look at but his Battery stuff is well worth a look. He does post in the Forum as well.

https://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/p/contents.html

There are systems Battery compatible with DCC Chips but pretty much in USA with possibke issues on UK Radio Compatibility Licensing issues. Massoth (Germany) was doing something but this has for the moment falken by the wayside.
JonD
 
I run DCC (Massoth) and I do not have a track feed every 2 meters and my track is usually tarnished and I have very few problems - just run trains regularly. My old circuit (currently being rebuilt) was a touch under 200 ft and had only two feeds,
I do have a track cleaning loco however that see use every month or so - rather less in the summer. As for batteries - cant be arsed with all the charging - 20 locos and as many lit coaches, plus the point motors - it all takes longer than putting the cleaner on the track.
 
Edward Johns said:
So my first question is about DCC out doors. Bearing in mind DCC needs really clan track and regular feeds every 2 metres or so what is the experience those running DCC on garden layouts.
Click to expand...

You don't need a feed every 2 metres with G Scale as long as you get good conductivity at the joints (rail clamps are good for this). The cross section of G Scale rail is (probably!) greater than the wire you are supplying it with so you actually get bigger voltage drop in the feed wires than you do in the rail. Most G Scale track being brass also helps. Having feeds every 2 meters is not necessary, but is not a problem if you do have them.

Clean track helps, mildly tarnished track is not usually an issue. Brass track does tarnish quickly.
 
What a forum. So much info so quickly.

Many thanks especially re the DCC feeds. Thanks for the links to articles etc as well. I have lots to learn about G scale obviously.
Ed
 
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Hi and welcome, only just built my line or still building it :) I use DCC via an LGB MTS III system bought second hand from the usual online auction site. I did add extra feeds to mine by running wires from the Massoth track clamps where I have used them to the next set, so I have feeds around 6-8m apart, The more I have run trains the less track cleaning I have had too do apart from removing debris and the presents birds leave :) and a quick clean every couple of weeks to stay on top , fingers crossed it will stay that easy :)
 
Well the help just keeps coming and I thank everyone for it.
One of the thing I have seen online are the rail clamps. I saw them in Dortmund at Intermodelbauu and possibly regret not buying some as they were available at just under €1 each!! However looking at the joiners already on the LGB and Piko track I have so far they appear to be a little difficult to remove. From a quick look they seem to be centre punched to the rail.
I do have a few second hand straights I purchased at a very good price and several have loose rail joiners so some remedial work is needed and the clamps seem to be the best solution.
Has anyone any advice on getting the factory fit joiners off?

Ed.
 
Yes Ed, there is a knack to it that is simple to pick up, and once you know it they take mere seconds each: with a pair of fine-nosed pliers, spread the sides of the joiner apart - then grip the base of the joiner tightly in the pliers and twist it downwards, pulling it at the same time; this should free the brass tab at the back of the joiner from the plastic sleeper web, and the joiner will come free. it does b*gger up the joiner, it is very difficult to remove them in a re-useable condition, so I wouldn't take them off till just before you lay the rails with track clamps - leaving it to the last minute means that the rail-end exposed when you remove the joiner will be clean and bright ready to make a good connection with the clamp!

Jon.
 
Ed, welcome!
The LGB joiners are also tabbed into the first sleeper, I remove them by putting pliers in the open end and just bending down, like Jon, although I found they can be crimped back to use again if you want to.
Many use the graphite paste if keeping the LGB rail joiners.
As to control as long as your screens have brightness controls I've not found a problem with smartphones in sunlight (I use the Z21 with booster).
 
Hi Paul & Zerogee,
thanks for the answers. I am virtually convinced to go with rail clamps now I know the rail joiners can be removed pretty easily. Looking at them they seem to provide a better electrical connection.

Right now my 2 locos are both DCC so I think for now I will stick with that as the control system for now.
Right now I am keeping an eye out for a secondhand LGB track cleaning loco but I also really like the DFB Furka Oberalp set. I know It's expensive and only a few seem to be about but oh boy!!

Ed
 
Actually just "Googling" I could not find the 29272 DFB available on any retailer's web site. Ebay may have one sometime. I stuck to German sites as I get out there 2-3 times a year and would pick it up if I got one. One site said not available until November this year while others said sold out at the makers. Of course that isn't the only problem. I am sure I am not alone in having one enormous obstacle to overcome. Her name is Tracy!!!
Ed
 
Edward Johns said:
Well the help just keeps coming and I thank everyone for it.
One of the thing I have seen online are the rail clamps. I saw them in Dortmund at Intermodelbauu and possibly regret not buying some as they were available at just under €1 each!! However looking at the joiners already on the LGB and Piko track I have so far they appear to be a little difficult to remove. From a quick look they seem to be centre punched to the rail.
I do have a few second hand straights I purchased at a very good price and several have loose rail joiners so some remedial work is needed and the clamps seem to be the best solution.
Has anyone any advice on getting the factory fit joiners off?

Ed.
Click to expand...
There was a super Vid of some guy knocking the LGB Railjoiners off in no time on YouTube. Perhaps someone may also be able to remember it and link it for you.

As for me, I use a Hack Saw to cut off the Tab that is in the sleeper then hold the Rail upside down in a good strong vise and give a good wallop with a Hammer on a Punch that is touching the Fishplate at the sleeper end. Works every time and the Fishplate is fully reusable with the exception of the lost irritating little Tab.
JonD
 
Edward Johns said:
..................I am sure I am not alone in having one enormous obstacle to overcome. Her name is Tracy!!!

Ed
Click to expand...

Let's hope she doesn't read this, or you could be in VERY deep trouble for referring to her as an "enormous obstacle"..... ;) :devil:

Jon.
 
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