Eighton Bahn AKA testing testing RhB

Try a small piece of Blue Tac, or similar
I have some of that black version, which will sort of blend in, but I am still at the pondering stage. Gule, tac trim the axle ends where the stick out or get rid.
 
Well I have decided to go with a glueing exercise, on all of the dummy axleboxes...

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...so afterwards a short freight test train was on the cards...

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...I think I may have cracked it, several laps of the railway, all lines covered, both directions and various speeds...

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...but then again I may have spoken too soon, but at least I am not hunting for dummy axleboxes.
 
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...but then again I may have spoken too soon, but at least I am not hunting for dummy axleboxes.
Needs a wagon attached at both ends to help control the movement of those single axle bogies. Without some force, pulling at both ends, putting tension on the "bogie" mounted coupling and "steering" them then you are always at risk of derailments.
 
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Needs a wagon attached at both ends to help control the movement of those single axle bogies. Without some force, pulling at both ends, putting tension on the "bogie" mounted coupling and "steering" them then you are always at risk of derailments.

Yep, that's why it's normally in the middle of the rake, but even then...

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...out of the 11, non bogie items of stock, this is the one that derails most of the time.
 
Yep, that's why it's normally in the middle of the rake, but even then...

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...out of the 11, non bogie items of stock, this is the one that derails most of the time.
Hm I wonder if the wheels are out of gauge or wobbly? A quick look suggests that they may be Bachman that can have a few issues. I wonder if a swop round to say LGB Metal wheels as an experiment to see if that cures the running may be in order. If that works then a serious look at the gauging and alignment of the Bachman set may be in order.
 
Anyways derailments aside, after recent struggles in trying to stretch over to the programming track, it has been relocated to the front edge of the shelf on No 5 storage line.
With the added complication of my anti dead end wall hitting isolation to also accomodate, when it switches over to a running track, using a DPDT switch. One full day, split over two to figure out the circuit, complicated because I added extra non necessary wires at one point, but it's all up and running now.

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So may as well get a running session in...

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...managed to get things stowed away, befor the rain, thunder and lightening hit.
 
After sorting the cab lighting problem of No.19 (619), may as well have a running session, and that is what has happened today...

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...OK, it wasn't all perfect...

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...the wagon is upside down, not the photo...

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...and I still carn't figure out how, but it allways throws this piece off, and the only way to get it back in is to remove the body...

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...and whilst it wasn't the only derailment, I could at least get creative with this one, and the photo opportunity guys were no where to be seen.
I'm inclined to think LGB had a bad batch of these mine has the exact same issue, so much so that it now runs with it missing as I can't be bothered to keep putting it back on!!!
 
I'm inclined to think LGB had a bad batch of these mine has the exact same issue, so much so that it now runs with it missing as I can't be bothered to keep putting it back on!!!
It's got to be fixable - especially with LGB flanges.

How does it sit on a piece of glass? all wheels on the flat?
 
Yep, that's why it's normally in the middle of the rake, but even then...

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...out of the 11, non bogie items of stock, this is the one that derails most of the time.
I remember from my Sheinenbus experienc, related earlier, that the single axle bogie design has a real issue with "oscillating" if there is no proper directional control. I rather like the rubber band or flexible broom bristle solution that was suggested elsewhere. Something similar was used to control a similar phenomenon on the early Scalextric "formula junior" Lotus & Cooper slot cars that had "steerable" wheels. It used rubber band to center and control the mechanism acting on an arm at the opposite end to the guide pin. Just substitute your coupler for the guide pin. Try as I might ai could not find a picture or copy of the old service sheet to provide a visual representation. But it rang a bell.
 
key to that system is a small slot where the two plastic pieces join to allow for the slight difference when in curves. To be hinest never found it to be an issue except for off wagons that have been uncoupled and left in the off sharpe curves that have the loop out of alignment and will not couple to the next vehicle to join up. A small push with the shunting pole generally gets things coupled.
 
I've already got one (to paraphrase the French Taunters on the castle)... not with the clever wheel-centreing device, mind you...

Jon.
 
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