Dual gauge track

[Paul2727]

Hi all,
I'm looking to make a long section of 3 rail dual gauge track 32 and 45 mm sharing one common rail.
Does anyone know if any manufacturer produce 32 mm track in Code 332 Rail? This would seem to make producing a gauge separator turnout much easier.
My other option would be to go the 4 rail route with the 32 mm track nestling inside the 45mm. Which one would be best?
And what are the pro's and con's of both types? Obviously the smaller the code of the 32 mm, the smaller the flanges would have to be on the stock.
Cheers,
Paul.

 

[playmofire]

Hi all,
I'm looking to make a long section of 3 rail dual gauge track 32 and 45 mm sharing one common rail.
Does anyone know if any manufacturer produce 32 mm track in Code 332 Rail? This would seem to make producing a gauge separator turnout much easier.
My other option would be to go the 4 rail route with the 32 mm track nestling inside the 45mm. Which one would be best?
And what are the pro's and con's of both types? Obviously the smaller the code of the 32 mm, the smaller the flanges would have to be on the stock.
Cheers,
Paul.

If you were just wanting straights and curves and no points, you could trim down some LGB sleepers on 45mm track so that the sleepers on the extra line just slotted in between the sleepers on the main track, crude but would work.

 

[dunnyrail]

Hi all,
I'm looking to make a long section of 3 rail dual gauge track 32 and 45 mm sharing one common rail.
Does anyone know if any manufacturer produce 32 mm track in Code 332 Rail? This would seem to make producing a gauge separator turnout much easier.
My other option would be to go the 4 rail route with the 32 mm track nestling inside the 45mm. Which one would be best?
And what are the pro's and con's of both types? Obviously the smaller the code of the 32 mm, the smaller the flanges would have to be on the stock.
Cheers,
Paul.

Hm interesting questions. i am pretty certain that GRS have done dual 32/45 track likely code 332 but not sure if they still do it. Back in the 80’s I built a circle of dual gauge track to go on my large line in Luton. At the time the track was all scratch built with Bonds Flat Bottom Bras Rail using wood sleepers and 7 shaped pins, a lot of work. I built sets 2 points one was a crossover for 45mm but not a crossover for the 32 just a through line. See top picture. The second X crossover was similar. I did build one proper dual gauge point for a siding and these 2 can be seen in the second picture.

Depending on what you want I would say that a third rail is preferable as it is cheeper to produce requiring only 1 extra rail. Though both options have prototypical precedence. Thus if you have no points to be involved with your extra set of track for 32 is a viable option though you may run into issues of height with the track sitting on top of the 45, you may need to do some work on the smaller 32 cutting off sleeper ends and moving sleepers around to nestle between the 45 ones.

 

[SevenOfDiamonds]

oops! read the posts properly before replying!!!

 

[PhilP]

Don't quote me..
But I believe GRS are no longer going to supply dual gauge track?

The problem with having a different code (height) rail for an inner 32mm track, is getting across the higher section rail??? Difficult!

PhilP

 

[playmofire]

oops! read the posts properly before replying!!!

I wonder what the reply was.

 

[Gizzy]

I don't think you'll get 4 rails with code 332 Paul, so it will have to be 3 rail.

My suggestion would be to buy chairs and the rail from Tenmille and make your own....

 

[Paul2727]

Thanks guys.
I've been having a bit of a play with bits of old track, and it seems that if I use a single Aristocraft rail inside standard LGB 45 mm track to give me three rail dual track, it will do for what I'm after. The bolt holes in the underside of the Aristocraft track will enable me to bolt through the LGB sleepers to keep the 32m in gauge.
Now somewhere I have a bag full of individual rail chairs for Code 332 Rail. (Acquired for making bridges.) These have a moulded plastic pin on the bottom, so not that strong on their own. However, if used in conjunction with the bolted Aristocraft rail, it looks like they may do the job.
Unfortunately I can't remember where they came from.
I've also found a couple of plastic 32 mm points from some old toy train set (New-ray?) that may supply the parts for making a single bladed point. Luckily the track height is pretty much a spot on match for Code 332. The 45 mm track will link to the rest of the system, whereas, the 32mm will enter the siding. (Tram / Railcar shed.)
I'm probably going to radio control the 32 mm railcars (Faller.) But I'd like to have track power as an option. I'll just have to keep experimenting.
Even if I put the station platforms next to the common / shared rail, the gap needed to accommodate the steps on LGB looks weird when the railcars are at the platform. LGB feldbahn stock looks better. I may just have to go for ground level platforms and fit the railcars with steps.
I'd be grateful for any tips, because I'm bound to have missed something obvious.
Regards,
Paul.

 

[Paul2727]

I don't think you'll get 4 rails with code 332 Paul, so it will have to be 3 rail.

My suggestion would be to buy chairs and the rail from Tenmille and make your own....

Yes it was to tight for 4 rails, so I've plumped for 3. Do you happen to know if the chairs that Tenmile sell fit LGB / Aristocraft rail? I was under the impression that their rail has a different profile.
paul.

 

[Gizzy]

Yes it was to tight for 4 rails, so I've plumped for 3. Do you happen to know if the chairs that Tenmile sell fit LGB / Aristocraft rail? I was under the impression that their rail has a different profile.
paul.

Tenmille rail is code 332 in height, but the foot of the rail is narrower than LGB/PIKO/ART. You can either use their adapter joiner or better still, file the foot of the LGB to the same as the Tenmille and use rail-clamps.

I've a link here that will help you....

G sacle Track

Tenmiile Products - For Gauge One, 16mm/Ft Narrow Gauge & G Scale

www.tenmille.com

 

[Paul2727]

Tenmille rail is code 332 in height, but the foot of the rail is narrower than LGB/PIKO/ART. You can either use their adapter joiner or better still, file the foot of the LGB to the same as the Tenmille and use rail-clamps.

Thanks for the link, I'd already checked their site, but it didn't mention what the difference was.
So, The foot of the rail is narrower, I assume that means that the chairs will not fit Aristocraft rail either. The joiners are not an issue, but I'm going to need a lot of chairs, which would mean filing the whole 20 metres of rail to slide them on. I'll have to check with them.
Regards,
Paul.
Update: I've spoken with Tenmile. It appears that too use their G scale chairs, I would indeed have to use their own G scale track due to the width of the foot.
This will take some thinking on. I may have to see how cutting and gluing individual LGB / Aristo chairs from some spare sleepers works, to see what's possible.

 

[Gizzy]

Thanks for the link, I'd already checked their site, but it didn't mention what the difference was.
So, The foot of the rail is narrower, I assume that means that the chairs will not fit Aristocraft rail either. The joiners are not an issue, but I'm going to need a lot of chairs, which would mean filing the whole 20 metres of rail to slide them on. I'll have to check with them.
Regards,
Paul.

That is correct Paul.

I would buy their rail and chairs for the 3rd rail and fit to your existing track, although I can understand that you would rather use the rail you already have....

 

[Gizzy]

Thanks for the link, I'd already checked their site, but it didn't mention what the difference was.
So, The foot of the rail is narrower, I assume that means that the chairs will not fit Aristocraft rail either. The joiners are not an issue, but I'm going to need a lot of chairs, which would mean filing the whole 20 metres of rail to slide them on. I'll have to check with them.
Regards,
Paul.
Update: I've spoken with Tenmile. It appears that too use their G scale chairs, I would indeed have to use their own G scale track due to the width of the foot.
This will take some thinking on. I may have to see how cutting and gluing individual LGB / Aristo chairs from some spare sleepers works, to see what's possible.

You might find that if you use the ART rail that you already have, butted up to the chairs on the LGB track, that you have the 32 mm gauge you require.

I wouldn't bother with the chairs for this rail, if you are going to screw the ART rail as you proposed? you wouldn't notice unless you looked really closely, especially once ballasted....

 

[Eeyore.Boater]

Schienenstühlchen für Code 332

passend zum Profil Code332: LGB, Thiel, Train-line etc.

modell-werkstatt.de

I guess they'll come in at about double the price at the moment

 

[Paul2727]

Schienenstühlchen für Code 332

passend zum Profil Code332: LGB, Thiel, Train-line etc.

modell-werkstatt.de

I guess they'll come in at about double the price at the moment

These look almost identical to the loose chairs I already have. The spacing info on the site is very useful too. Guess I'll have to work out how many I,d need for the visible section of the duel line. As Gizzy say's if the inner rail is screwed down it does not need chairs, particularly where it can't be seen.
It made up a short section as a test yesterday, and it seems to run OK.

 

[Paul2727]

Today I have been measuring the back to back measurements of all the 'O' gauge / 32mm wheelsets of the different brands / ages rolling stock /locos I have. (This ranges from pre-war tinplate clockwork to various 'toy' trains. There's quite a difference, but I seem to have found a 'gauge' that is usable with most.
I've also been looking for a robust and simple design of diversion track / points that could be adapted for my needs.
Surprisingly, it looks like the oldest method is going to be worth a try...
The old Hornby-meccano tinplate 2 foot radius points use a sector plate method, arbeit with a central pivot. Obviously I can't use a single piece of metal if I want to run power through it, so I am intending to try making a sandwich the same thickness as the LGB sleepers comprising of sheet of hard plastic bonded to the top of a sheet of brass. Mount the two rails. (One curved, one straight.) with M2 bolts through them both in the manner of Aristo track. Drill the centre pivot hole 6mm through them both, then cut a slot through the brass sheet to isolate the two rails. Finally bond another sheet of hard plastic underneath to bring the whole thing up to the correct thickness.

For the base I'm looking at hard plastic with entry / exit tracks and plastic sleepers / slide mount bonded to it.
Basically an insulated copy of an old tinplate point, but with an extra rail set at 45 mm gauge outside of the straight 32 mm rail:
Obviously you would not want to run a 45 mm train with the point set to 32 mm, so the control switch for this point would be linked to the 32 / 45 mm power control switch. Oops, forgot to mention that I intend to use brass 332 Aristo rail. not the tinplate as pictured.
See rough sketch of dual gauge point idea below:


So what do you think? Will this work?
Paul.

 

[Gizzy]

View attachment 279802
So what do you think? Will this work?
Paul.

Give it a go and see....

 

[65 1057]

Hi all,
I'm looking to make a long section of 3 rail dual gauge track 32 and 45 mm sharing one common rail.
Does anyone know if any manufacturer produce 32 mm track in Code 332 Rail? This would seem to make producing a gauge separator turnout much easier.
My other option would be to go the 4 rail route with the 32 mm track nestling inside the 45mm. Which one would be best?
And what are the pro's and con's of both types? Obviously the smaller the code of the 32 mm, the smaller the flanges would have to be on the stock.
Cheers,
Paul.

Hello Paul - what about this? It's code 250...

http://ateliervaporiste.com/WWW2/catalog/SR/_big/SW6DGBRRH.jpg

 

[ebay mike]

Today I have been measuring the back to back measurements of all the 'O' gauge / 32mm wheelsets of the different brands / ages rolling stock /locos I have. (This ranges from pre-war tinplate clockwork to various 'toy' trains. There's quite a difference, but I seem to have found a 'gauge' that is usable with most.
I've also been looking for a robust and simple design of diversion track / points that could be adapted for my needs.
Surprisingly, it looks like the oldest method is going to be worth a try...
The old Hornby-meccano tinplate 2 foot radius points use a sector plate method, arbeit with a central pivot. Obviously I can't use a single piece of metal if I want to run power through it, so I am intending to try making a sandwich the same thickness as the LGB sleepers comprising of sheet of hard plastic bonded to the top of a sheet of brass. Mount the two rails. (One curved, one straight.) with M2 bolts through them both in the manner of Aristo track. Drill the centre pivot hole 6mm through them both, then cut a slot through the brass sheet to isolate the two rails. Finally bond another sheet of hard plastic underneath to bring the whole thing up to the correct thickness.

For the base I'm looking at hard plastic with entry / exit tracks and plastic sleepers / slide mount bonded to it.
Basically an insulated copy of an old tinplate point, but with an extra rail set at 45 mm gauge outside of the straight 32 mm rail:
Obviously you would not want to run a 45 mm train with the point set to 32 mm, so the control switch for this point would be linked to the 32 / 45 mm power control switch. Oops, forgot to mention that I intend to use brass 332 Aristo rail. not the tinplate as pictured.
See rough sketch of dual gauge point idea below:
View attachment 279802
So what do you think? Will this work?
Paul.

Paul, while not dual gauge track, I laid some interlaced track on a single width bridge on my 32mm gauge tramway with no moving parts for separation, just carefully placed check rails. inserting a single moving blade could possibly solve your problem without ever compromising traffic using the 45mm track. I'm not sure if I have any photos, but will try and come up with a sketch of what I mean.

 

[Paul2727]

Hello Paul - what about this? It's code 250...

http://ateliervaporiste.com/WWW2/catalog/SR/_big/SW6DGBRRH.jpg

Unfortunately I need the line to be code 332. At this time Funds do not allow me to spend any money, so it's a case of use what I have available. and the ability to build. But the photo may well prove useful.
Regards,
Paul.