Correct solvent adhesive to use with LGB pruducts

[maxi-model]

I have recently aquired an LGB "1:22.5 scale" U Class that I will be modifying to get closer to the spec' in its gusise as Zillertalbahn #2 as it apears now at the W&LRR. I won't be touching the cab height (it's going to be paired with Lineside Hut 16 mm scale Zillertalbahn coaches) but I will be narrowing the rear frames. Now I finally have my hands on one of ther " prototypical" locos, the only other one I have owned is the track cleaner, I can see how and why they get busy with the "rubber ruler" at the design stage I don't run R1's or below 4ft radius on my line

My questiion - there will be some careful work with a razor saw - so, how best to bond LGB plastic bits back together. What is the correct slovent based adhesive to use to weld/bond the plastic they use (Luran ?) back together, and wher do I buy it if not the usual styrene/ABS offerings. I would like avoid super glues, epxoxies and brackets with nuts and bolts if possible. Thanking you all in advance. Max

Edit - I have found an old topic on this subject here on GSC. Problem is all the pictures of products have gone and the links to other's websites come up as "not found". SO new information is requred, I have tried to find a definitive answer before posting here.

 

[Bill Barnwell]

I use model master's cement or MEK pretty much the same thing, it actually melts the plastic back together but needs to be held in place until cured if that isn't possible I use ACE hardware's, Amazon's Plastic surgery glue and although part super glue it also melts the plastic back together at the same time and I have had extremely good luck with it and fairly inexpensive

 

[maxi-model]

Thanks

I use model master's cement or MEK pretty much the same thing, it actually melts the plastic back together but needs to be held in place until cured if that isn't possible I use ACE hardware's, Amazon's Plastic surgery glue and although part super glue it also melts the plastic back together at the same time and I have had extremely good luck with it and fairly inexpensive View attachment 288327

Hi Bill, thanks for your reply. However as I live in the UK this and the other product you mention is not available to me here, at least at anything near a reasonable price - shipping on eBay is around $16 alone. MEK certainly is, which I assume from what you say is what is the basis of this product. You did not state if you have used this on LGB models and the plastics they use specifically. Max

 

[maxi-model]

Well, this might be a candidate, uv activated adhesive perhaps Bonding SAN (Styrene-Acrylonitrile)
I still would like to hear your own proven reliable methods for bonding the Luran S plastic that LGB seem to use. Given their predominance in the market I would think there might be a definitive product out there. Has anybody asked LGB or is there a statement to that effect on their website somewhere. I also looked at the Henkel Loctite data sheet for their products' performance when bonding Luran S and other plastic materials of that styreneacrylonitrile family - impenetrable Max

 

[Rhinochugger]

It may be worth looking at the standard adhesives, Max. Modern UHU will bond virtually anything in a very impressive way. The solvent-free version can be a PITA because of its long curing time, but if there is good mechanical contact during the setting process, the adhesion is extremely good.

Bostik make a special adhesive for 'hard' plastics which I have also used with success when modifying cameras into lamps.

Having said all that, I haven't used any of them with LGB plastic mainly because I don't run or butcher modify very much LGB

 

[GAP]

I have had success with gluing LGB plastic with this product

Plastic Magic

50 ml Bonds plastics other glues cannot: Deluxe Materials new formula Plastic Magic is a liquid solvent glue that produces invisible glue lines. Please note! Cannot be sent overseas.Can only be sent UK MAINLAND. The new safer formula can be applied with the Deluxe Materials Pin Flow solvent glue...

deluxematerials.co.uk

 

[Zerogee]

Bertram Heyn sells Ruderer L530 adhesive, which lists styrene-acrylonitrile among many plastics that it will bond. I picked up a tube from him last time he was at the Llanfair show, though I haven't yet tried to use it on LGB plastics.

Jon.

 

[maxi-model]

It may be worth looking at the standard adhesives, Max. Modern UHU will bond virtually anything in a very impressive way. The solvent-free version can be a PITA because of its long curing time, but if there is good mechanical contact during the setting process, the adhesion is extremely good.

Bostik make a special adhesive for 'hard' plastics which I have also used with success when modifying cameras into lamps.

Having said all that, I haven't used any of them with LGB plastic mainly because I don't run or butcher modify very much LGB

Do you know the name of the Bostik product Rihno ? Regards UHU do you mean the "Plast" product they market and normally comes packed with Pola (LGB) kits ? The mods I am doing will result in butt joints where at least one edge to be joined will be about 1 mm in width - i.e. not much contact patch so a contact adhesive will probably not work (although I am not assuming the Bostik product is a contact type adhesive). Max

 

[maxi-model]

I have had success with gluing LGB plastic with this product

Plastic Magic

50 ml Bonds plastics other glues cannot: Deluxe Materials new formula Plastic Magic is a liquid solvent glue that produces invisible glue lines. Please note! Cannot be sent overseas.Can only be sent UK MAINLAND. The new safer formula can be applied with the Deluxe Materials Pin Flow solvent glue...

deluxematerials.co.uk

I have some of that. It has proved next to useless on most plastics I have tried it on. Perhaps it was the way I was applying it, or what I was applying it to. I have found EMA is the most versatile solvent adhesive. I have bought a number of Deluxe products over the years and find them mostly disappointing compared to other makes with similar applications - e.g. Sanding sealer, super glue, silicon adhesive, etc'. But I have never tried it on LGB products. I'll give it a go. thank you for the tip GAP. Max

 

[PhilP]

It also depends on the age of the LGB product..
They changed from Luran-S to a slightly different product.

I have had some success with Technicol 800 (might be 8000?).
This also came from Bertram Heyn..

PhilP

 

[maxi-model]

It also depends on the age of the LGB product..
They changed from Luran-S to a slightly different product.

I have had some success with Technicol 800 (might be 8000?).
This also came from Bertram Heyn..

PhilP

The sticker on the bottom of the loco suggests it was made 1/7/2003 or 7/1/2003 PhilP, A Google search for Technicol 800/8000 brigs up nothing, although the brand seems to be associated with specialised epoxy resins. For some reason Bertram Heyn's site is not responding, or at least the link I have used only recently Die Modellbau-Werkstatt Bertram Heyn: Alles Schöne für die Gartenbahn - Typical, get a good lead and there is no way to contact and follow up Such is life. Max

 

[ebay mike]

I have recently aquired an LGB "1:22.5 scale" U Class that I will be modifying to get closer to the spec' in its gusise as Zillertalbahn #2 as it apears now at the W&LRR. I won't be touching the cab height (it's going to be paired with Lineside Hut 16 mm scale Zillertalbahn coaches) but I will be narrowing the rear frames. Now I finally have my hands on one of ther " prototypical" locos, the only other one I have owned is the track cleaner, I can see how and why they get busy with the "rubber ruler" at the design stage I don't run R1's or below 4ft radius on my line

My questiion - there will be some careful work with a razor saw - so, how best to bond LGB plastic bits back together. What is the correct slovent based adhesive to use to weld/bond the plastic they use (Luran ?) back together, and wher do I buy it if not the usual styrene/ABS offerings. I would like avoid super glues, epxoxies and brackets with nuts and bolts if possible. Thanking you all in advance. Max

Edit - I have found an old topic on this subject here on GSC. Problem is all the pictures of products have gone and the links to other's websites come up as "not found". SO new information is requred, I have tried to find a definitive answer before posting here.

i tried the luderer L530 but didn't get on with it. Had a bit more sucess with 5 Second Fix - a UV activated glue. About 8.00 for 3 tubes on ebay

I have recently aquired an LGB "1:22.5 scale" U Class that I will be modifying to get closer to the spec' in its gusise as Zillertalbahn #2 as it apears now at the W&LRR. I won't be touching the cab height (it's going to be paired with Lineside Hut 16 mm scale Zillertalbahn coaches) but I will be narrowing the rear frames. Now I finally have my hands on one of ther " prototypical" locos, the only other one I have owned is the track cleaner, I can see how and why they get busy with the "rubber ruler" at the design stage I don't run R1's or below 4ft radius on my line

My questiion - there will be some careful work with a razor saw - so, how best to bond LGB plastic bits back together. What is the correct slovent based adhesive to use to weld/bond the plastic they use (Luran ?) back together, and wher do I buy it if not the usual styrene/ABS offerings. I would like avoid super glues, epxoxies and brackets with nuts and bolts if possible. Thanking you all in advance. Max

Edit - I have found an old topic on this subject here on GSC. Problem is all the pictures of products have gone and the links to other's websites come up as "not found". SO new information is requred, I have tried to find a definitive answer before posting here.

I have recently aquired an LGB "1:22.5 scale" U Class that I will be modifying to get closer to the spec' in its gusise as Zillertalbahn #2 as it apears now at the W&LRR. I won't be touching the cab height (it's going to be paired with Lineside Hut 16 mm scale Zillertalbahn coaches) but I will be narrowing the rear frames. Now I finally have my hands on one of ther " prototypical" locos, the only other one I have owned is the track cleaner, I can see how and why they get busy with the "rubber ruler" at the design stage I don't run R1's or below 4ft radius on my line

My questiion - there will be some careful work with a razor saw - so, how best to bond LGB plastic bits back together. What is the correct slovent based adhesive to use to weld/bond the plastic they use (Luran ?) back together, and wher do I buy it if not the usual styrene/ABS offerings. I would like avoid super glues, epxoxies and brackets with nuts and bolts if possible. Thanking you all in advance. Max

Edit - I have found an old topic on this subject here on GSC. Problem is all the pictures of products have gone and the links to other's websites come up as "not found". SO new information is requred, I have tried to find a definitive answer before posting here.

 

[maxi-model]

I have just sent an e-mail to LGB's service department. I have given them product, 20721, and manufacturing date code, 001073. Let's see what they say. All very useful stuff so far, thank you all. I'm thinking a UV activated glue might be a solution if a satisfactory solvent can't be found. Never tried them before so could be an eye opener. It will be interesting to see what Bertram Heyn's site lists when I can get through. Keep 'em coming. Max

 

[PhilP]

Bertram's site seems to be up this morning :

Technicoll 8008 Kunststoffkleber

Der ideale Kunststoffkleber mit Dosierspitze

www.modell-werkstatt.de

I was '8' out with the product name.

PhilP

 

[JimmyB]

I have just sent an e-mail to LGB's service department. I have given them product, 20721, and manufacturing date code, 001073. Let's see what they say. All very useful stuff so far, thank you all. I'm thinking a UV activated glue might be a solution if a satisfactory solvent can't be found. Never tried them before so could be an eye opener. It will be interesting to see what Bertram Heyn's site lists when I can get through. Keep 'em coming. Max

I bought some UV activated glue, and was not impressed, however what confounded me was, you put the glue on a surface, cover the surface with the item you wish to bond with it, how does the UV light active it when the glue in the joint, only the glue at the edge seemed to be activated and leaving the joint quite weak.

 

[ge_rik]

I use thick super glue; the high viscosity stuff from Tool Station. Mind you, most of my gluing is styrene or PLA to LGB plastic, I'm not sure what it would be like with bonding LGB plastic to LGB plastic.

Rik

PS - I've also used Plastic Magic, but again not tried it with LGB to LGB bonds

 

[Paul M]

butt joints where at least one edge to be joined will be about 1 mm in width

Will you be able to put a strengthening piece in to support it? Not many glues will be strong enough over such a small area

 

[maxi-model]

Will you be able to put a strengthening piece in to support it? Not many glues will be strong enough over such a small area

Yes, Paul. I have a small stock of ABS and Polystyrene, angle,and square section, even brass plus small BA size fixings. Usually there is a way of doing it - no problem when cutting and shutting the rear frames. It's just my preferred method, actual "welding" of plastic materials, where possible before anything else. As the say about cats and bringing about their demise (*Shh ! there is one asleep behind me on the sofa ) I will have to make an arrangement for the chopper couple at the rear to be able to pivot and swing a little - that will use a brass attachment bonded and bolted to the pony truck assembly. The distance from the rear drivers to the coupling face is a l-o-n-g way, like an L&B Manning Wardell. Max

 

[maxi-model]

I use thick super glue; the high viscosity stuff from Tool Station. Mind you, most of my gluing is styrene or PLA to LGB plastic, I'm not sure what it would be like with bonding LGB plastic to LGB plastic.

Rik

PS - I've also used Plastic Magic, but again not tried it with LGB to LGB bonds

CA's are really too brittle and prone to failure in this application and do not offer a good bond with the plastics used here. They are brilliant at bonding quick cure resins together and the plastic that Kadee use on their couplings for some reason. They work on some polyethylene types tha are usually difficult to bond - note what happens over time with the nozzle and cap on your bottles of CA. Max

 

[maxi-model]

I bought some UV activated glue, and was not impressed, however what confounded me was, you put the glue on a surface, cover the surface with the item you wish to bond with it, how does the UV light active it when the glue in the joint, only the glue at the edge seemed to be activated and leaving the joint quite weak.

Quite right Jimmy. Hence my thought about its use where I have a "narrow" edges to bond together or those narrow edges onto to larger flat areas. I must have a chat with my dentist sometime, they use the stuff,all the time - "Ah !, before you extract my tooth could you.......and stop asking me 'Is it safe ?' So how do they do the brick bonding bit in the adverts then ? Or am I mixing up all those miracle adhesive ads that pop up on my FB feed for some reason - must by those pesky algorithms at work They must have spotted a trend to my posts and likes. Max