Converting to RC Battery Power HELP REQUIRED

[Tizaker]

[font="arial,helvetica,sans-serif"]Hi all,[/font]
[font="arial,helvetica,sans-serif"]Can any one provide a blow by blow account (a form of idiots guide, for want of a better description) on how to carry out RC conversions from conventional track power to battery power. Visual stages and simple instructions a must. Equipment required etc. [/font]
[font="arial,helvetica,sans-serif"]I really do not have the knowledge or confidence to go it alone. I was thinking of converting my LGB Stainz for starters. [/font]

[font="arial,helvetica,sans-serif"]In this Season of Good Will, can anyone help? [/font]

[font="arial,helvetica,sans-serif"]Rob[/font]

 

[yb281]

This one is a bit old, but it's my first effort;
http://www.gscalecentral.net/Battery-power-and-radio-control-using-Cliff-Barker-components-m94293 < Link To http://www.forum.gscalece...components-m94293

There are many other efforts using different systems in this section if you do a search from the beginning, but this way worked for me.

 

[whatlep]

[font="arial,helvetica,sans-serif"]Can any one provide a blow by blow account (a form of idiots guide, for want of a better description) on how to carry out RC conversions from conventional track power to battery power. Visual stages and simple instructions a must. Equipment required etc. [/font]
[font="arial,helvetica,sans-serif"]I really do not have the knowledge or confidence to go it alone. I was thinking of converting my LGB Stainz for starters. [/font]

The Stainz is not a particularly simple loco to convert if you want a standalone loco. On the other hand, if you are happy to go with a trail car, then life is very simple. The Schoema and 2095 diesels are very easy conversions, as is the Kleine Dicke. Any of those in your shed?

 

[Madman]

I converted a couple of years ago. This gentleman is extremely helpful; http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/DelTapparo/
It's the system I use. There are other good systems out there also. While visiting with Ian, Coggs Railway, he showed me Cliff Barker's system. Quite impressive.
I use trailing cars myself. It's simpler for me, however some find it cumbersome. But then again, that's why they make chocolate and vanilla.
One thing I can tell you though, is that I have not regretted making the switch from track power to battery power.

 

[MRail]

Rather than a trail car, a tender will allow running in reverse without looking daft.

 

[yb281]

Rather than a trail car, a tender will allow running in reverse without looking daft.

Jump leads fitted both to the front and rear (easily hidden when not in use) allow the same, but keeping the tank loco look - which should of course spent around 50% of it's life running cab first.

 

[beavercreek]

Aristocraft include jump (MU) leads on their diesels (together with a battery/track power switch) and I used to get really annoyed by the leads as they just made the loco untidy at front and aft, but now, as I have begun batterying some locos I have the need for the leads/switch and I can only congratulate Aristo for being so 'inclusive'!

 

[MRail]

Rather than a trail car, a tender will allow running in reverse without looking daft.

Jump leads fitted both to the front and rear (easily hidden when not in use) allow the same, but keeping the tank loco look - which should of course spent around 50% of it's life running cab first.

Now why didn't I think of that??
Please do not answer!