Battery dunce seeks advice

[Doc R]

I'm sure you experienced battery/RC types will groan and roll your eyes, but can anyone give me a totally simplistic, step-by-step guide to converting my Stainz to battery power (and/or RC), with a MyLocoSound card fitted please? I want it to trundle around the line while I'm gardening so super speed control etc is not an issue, and I'm happy to put batteries into a following box van if that helps.

I am a total novice at this, so posts which say 'all you need is a 355 ECS with feedback LithIon wired to a RX13 DCS and Bar' will leave me dead in the water I'm afraid.

What I'm hoping for is the user-friendly '1. undo the screw at the back, 2. cut the blue wire, 3. buy an ABC power pack from Maplins and 4. connect it to the orange wire' type of thiing, maybe even with a few piccies!!??

I'm generally quite a quick learner but just don't know where to start with this, so any help will be greatly appreciated. I've downloaded the wiring diagram from the MyLocoSound webpage, and I'm starting to make sense of it, but don't want to make the plunge until I've got my head around it all!

Thanks, in anticipation,

Ian

 

[Del Tapparo]

Ian - If you check out my website, you will find a presentation I gave at the 2009 Garden Railway convention. Also, look at the manuals for my controls. The process of battery conversion is explained in fairly generic terms. It should at least help you get started. www.GScaleGraphics.net
.
Edit: I can't figure out how to post the URL without this site adding more stuff to it. Sorry.

 

[Steve]

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/DelTapparo/

 

[Doc R]

Thanks for the advice so far (including PMs with links), and I'm starting to make more sense of the whole area. I think I'll try putting a power pack into a separate box van to start with at least, and keep everything very simple indeed...

Does anyone happen to know where you can get exploded diagrams of a Stainz or did the design simply change too often over the years?

 

[dragon]

I purchased this 'U' class off e.bay last year. Two 7.2 battery packs in the wagon. Loco also switched for track power.

 

[Neil Robinson]

Does anyone happen to know where you can get exploded diagrams of a Stainz or did the design simply change too often over the years?

Ian, take a look at the link below.
http://www.champex-linden.de/lgb_produktdatenbank/

The Soar Valley Railway, does that mean you live in Leicestershire? If so and you find problems you may find it worthwhile to visit the CFR at Rothley Great Central station. Have a chat with the guys there, if I know when you're visiting I may be able to meet up.

 

[Doc R]

Thanks all, this is helping hugely. I've had to put most of my modelling on hold for quite a long time because my wife was seriously ill last year and is still convalescing, but this project has got me quite exctied again!

@ Neil, I am indeed in Leics - is the CFR a shop? I've been meaning to have a look at the Great Cebtral since we moved here just over 2 years ago. By the way, if you think this posting means I have abandoned your advice about wiring return loops last summer, I have to say I'm still in two minds about the whole power thing and still rely on my orange Aristo handheld controller! This battery project is so that I can have something trundling around under its own steam (!!?) while I'm gardening, regardless of power.

Cheers all!

 

[Neil Robinson]

Neil, I am indeed in Leics - is the CFR a shop? I've been meaning to have a look at the Great Cebtral since we moved here just over 2 years ago.

Ian, the CFR is a G scale layout often featured on this forum. The link below is but one of many topics about it.

http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=67036&high= < Link To http://www.gscalecentral...?m=67036&high=

 

[Moonraker]

Ian,

If you need any help with our wiring diagrams please email me at sales@mylocosound.com or send me a PM.

I can confirm that the MyLocoSound soundcard works with the three systems mentioned in this thread, G Scale Graphics, Brian Jones and RCS, and also several others.

As a result of the limited space in the Stainz, I think your first step is to consider the batteries. If your layout is flat and you don't need to pull long trains then an 8 cell, 9.6 volt battery supply is probably sufficient. On the other hand, if you have significant gradients and/or long trains then you will need a 12 cell, 14.4 volt supply.

Whichever number of cells you choose, if they are AA then you should get a 2 hour run time. If they are AAA then probably not much over an hour.

You also need to consider how the batteries are to be charged. If you don't want to remove the batteries for charging then the necessary socket and switch needs to be included.

Given the small size of the Stainz, I think you should consider installing the whole lot into a van which you can run behind this (and any other) loco so that you have a plug and socket connection to the loco carrying the motor and lights supply.

Regards
Peter

 

[Tony Walsham]

Personally I would use a trail car as it simplifies everything. Then all you need to do is connect the trail car output to the small two way connector in the back of the cab.
The loco will run as though it were track powered and the lights will work normally.

However, all battery powered locomotives MUST have the loco completely electrically isolated from the track. This is so the output voltage of the speed controller is not fed down into the track thus causing a short.
How you modify the Stainz for battery power depends on which version of the Stainz it is.
The older clam shell motor blocks may be more difficult as they require removal from the body to get access to the innards. You can tell these easily. The four wheels have a slot head screw right in the middle of each wheel.
The newer versions, which have a removable plate underneath, should be simpler to access.
If it is the latter you should be able to simply remove the bottom plate to get inside and remove the metal strips that connect the plungers from the back of the wheels and the slider contacts.

 

[Doc R]

Thanks all - I'm afraid the current work - family - (my) life balance is set firmly against me these days so modelling/running trains is a bit hit and miss. I've just caught up with recent posts, and the advice seems to bear up my thinking on using a spare box van for all the electronic gubbins.

I'm going to take the plunge tonight and try to dismantle the Stainz to disconnect the electrical pickups. I'll let you know how I get on!

 

[Doc R]

OK, following Tony's pointers above, it turns out I have the Stainz with the simpler plate on the bottom, so getting to the gubbins was fairly easy.

I've removed the skate assemblies on either side, and the spring-plunger things which press against the back of the front and rear pairs of wheels.

Does this mean the loco is now fully isolated from track power? I've looked at the exploded diagrams and think that's it for pick ups.

However, I do not have a connector socket coming through the cab and out the back: there's a blanking plate on the back of the cab wall where a connector would normally go....

Again, I've checked the diagrams but I cannot see how to get to the motor to identify terminals where I could solder some wire. Anyone know the best way to take the body off without the pistons etc flying across the carpet?? Once again, advice gratefully received!

Thanks,
Ian (who's going to have a stiff drink as he considers what he is attempting here with minimal technical ability)

 

[Tony Walsham]

All the track pick ups should now have been removed.
Did you try removing the little cover plate on the socket at the back of the cab? It just pulls straight out.
If you have a multi meter, place the loco on the track and check for continuity between the terminals on the cab socket and each side of the track. There should be no connection.

Locating a suitable plug to connect the trailcar to this socket might be difficult, but if you choose my R/C equipment for your conversion I would gladly supply a prewired suitable plug and cable for you for nothing.

 

[Bram]

If you remove the cab etc you will expose the running block and you should see 2 pins sticking up. Solder you connections to these, Brian Jones sells some nice mini connectors

 

[MRail]

the advice seems to bear up my thinking on using a spare box van for all the electronic gubbins.

I prefer a tender, then it can run round and return tender first!