Converting LGB to R/C

Alexander0654

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Accepting that the large blue batteries shoud not be modified in any way, then using them as supplied requires a connector of some sort. What type of connector is recommened and who can supply them ?
Should the battery be used with the male for power and the female for charging or can a single lead be used of both functions ?
Leading on from connectors ( no pune intended ) what type for wire should be used between the battery connector and the speed controller ? Wires are also required from the controller to the motor and when using a Trailling Wagon for power and control what connecotrs should be used between the wagon and the locomotive ?
 

CoggesRailway

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That video has made me all the more happier with my nimh approach. that is scary!!
 

whatlep

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Alexander0654 said:
Accepting that the large blue batteries shoud not be modified in any way, then using them as supplied requires a connector of some sort. What type of connector is recommened and who can supply them ?
Should the battery be used with the male for power and the female for charging or can a single lead be used of both functions ?
Leading on from connectors ( no pune intended ) what type for wire should be used between the battery connector and the speed controller ? Wires are also required from the controller to the motor and when using a Trailling Wagon for power and control what connecotrs should be used between the wagon and the locomotive ?

Taking those one at a time:
1) You need 2.1mm inline connectors for the battery connection. There are loads on eBay, or you can get them from the likes of Maplin or RS components. For connecting to the battery lead you want a connector which is fully enclosed, unlike the panel mounting socket shown by Ross. Something like this: http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/290619873794?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla
2) If one of the leads is not switched, use that one. It can be used for both functions. If both leads are switched either can be used and again for both functions.
3) Wire sufficient to carry the amperage you will be using. 1 amp wire should be enough. If unsure, have a look at the thickness of wire used in your locomotive.
4) Connectors between trail wagon and loco are entirely down to personal preference. I use the LGB lighting connectors, but many people use the BEC type of connector (just Google BEC connector)
 

MRail

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ROSS said:
[style="color: #f82d06;"]I do not advise it.
If in doubt use NiMH batteries. See POST 87.
Thanks Ross, that's good enough for me.
I'm thinking of reverting to NiMh, because the 12V Li pack is a little underpowered for my double Essel truck locos.
I formerly ran these with 14 x AA's ie 16.8V.
 

matthew

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Well all of my stuff has arrived now (apart from my controller/receiver which is expected within the next couple of days) and and everything seems so much simpler now you have the actual parts to see.

The only question i have is, the charging socket has the 3 connectors on the bottom. Which ones do you use for attaching it to the circuit? I presume it is the 2 connectors opposite eachother, and the central one is left unused?

950c385e6c6a4580830dda5221635d08.jpg



[attachment deleted by admin]
 

matthew

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Thanks for that, will be able to have a better read through later, but how will that work in relation to the cliff barker method of instalation as per the first page?
 

yb281

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Del Tapparo said:
Why not ask Cliff? Does he not support his products?
Yes, all of his RC products come with a comprehensive and easy to follow wiring diagram.

It must be - I can follow it! :rofl::rofl:
 

matthew

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Right, i've now disconnected the pickup skates to start the battery conversion.

As i started re assembling the motor block i tested it before putting the drive rods on and it ran smoothly, but when i re attached the drive rods it becomes jerky..What am i doing wrong please ?
 

mike

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youve got it out off quartering... even if its just by 1 tooth , it will bind...take the rods off, and center the wheels.. by setting the rod conectins at 12 oclock..
 

mike

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its only because ive had to do it so often matt:clap::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 

stockers

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Words of a master!
 

matthew

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Anddddd stuck again :rofl:

I thought i had disconnected the track pickups, and i have removed the skates.

Im converting the 2096 bobo, and when i test one motor on track power it doesnt run, but when i connect both motors together and then test on track power, it runs. Any ideas why?
 

Rob s

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matthew

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This is confusing me now (not hard i know!)

I've removed the pick up skates, but how do you stop the wheels from picking up power too? There doesnt seem to be any wires connecting it?
And i can't work out why each motor wont pick up off the track on it's own, only when the motors are connected to eachother will it run of track power.
 

matthew

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Neil Robinson said:
I guess you've left some of the pickup "bullets" on.
There's four per bogie, take them all out.
Look at parts number 38 on pages 4 and 5 of this diagram
http://lgb.vanelten.nl/Database/explosietekeningen/2096s-1.pdf < Link To http://lgb.vanelten.nl/Da...tekeningen/2096s-1.pdf

Thanks for that Neil, been after a loco diagram for a few days. I saw the pickups you mentioned earlier but couldnt tell if they were connected or not, i guess they were after all, thanks :D
 

GAP

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Matt,
My rule of thumb when converting from track power is "It its touching the wheels rip it all out and start again".
And most importantly make a drawing of the wiring it is invaluable when you have to repair or change something.