Bob Dunlop
I Love G Scale, 16mm, 1/20.3 & 7/8ths
Evening to all. Does anyone have any experience in fitting a DCC chip or two to an analog LGB/Aster NGG13 Beyer Garratt with the original factory sound on board ?
Chipping An Lgb/aster Ngg13 Garratt
- Thread starter Bob Dunlop
- Start date
AustrianNG
Director of my railway
From memory of seeing Neil Robinson's Garratt's inwards, I think you need two LGB 55021 decoders, which plug in to the boards already provided inside.
Send a message to Neil, I'm fairly certain he may have fitted them to his loco to improve its running qualities when visiting other peoples layouts with DCC (such as mine).
Send a message to Neil, I'm fairly certain he may have fitted them to his loco to improve its running qualities when visiting other peoples layouts with DCC (such as mine).
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
If it takes 2 x 55021, then you could also use a pair of Massoth L decoders which plug in just the same as the LGB 55021 but are cheaper! I'm sure Mark (Muns) at GRO could find you a couple.....
Jon.
Bob Dunlop
I Love G Scale, 16mm, 1/20.3 & 7/8ths
Hi guys, thanks for your responses , I've only just been able to read your responses as my computer was in bits following a motherboard failure. Really I suppose my main question is about what is it necessary to dismantle to allow access the circuit boards, where the decoders can be mounted, as there don't appear to be any drawings available as per other LGB loco's. I wouldn't know if there are separate boards under the water tank and coal bunker, or if everything is housed in the boiler. and whichever the case is, how do you get into the required components.
Hope that all makes sense.
Cheers
Bob
Hope that all makes sense.
Cheers
Bob
Neil Robinson
Registered
You'll only need to remove the top of the rear bunker. From memory there are six very small cross head screws securing the top to the rest of the bunker. Four are on the top with the other two near the four position switch.
I hope to run my Garratt at the East Midlands GSS group meeting tomorrow. If I remember to take my camera I'll take some pictures.
The board is indeed designed to take two LGB type chips with one controlling one motor only with the other the second motor together with the lights etc.
Bob Dunlop
I Love G Scale, 16mm, 1/20.3 & 7/8ths
Hi Neil, thanks for that info., phew !!, that's beginning to sound a lot easier than I expected as I had visions of some sort of major dis-assembly.
Pictures would be great.
Many thanks
Bob
Pictures would be great.
Many thanks
Bob
palmerston
trains
The remaining Aster parts of the electric powered loco's (for Frank S contact Aster directly) where bought by Modell-Land-Service, not Modell-Land! alltough there must be a link between the companies.
The exploded view HERE: http://www.modell-land-service.de/ersatzteile-aster-garrat-20922-aster-c-353_356.html
Yep, i used to own one, have replaced it with a NGG16 as i couldnt resist the live steam version! Not the best of Accucraft's offerings, as its still in bits. My next winter project.
The exploded view HERE: http://www.modell-land-service.de/ersatzteile-aster-garrat-20922-aster-c-353_356.html
Yep, i used to own one, have replaced it with a NGG16 as i couldnt resist the live steam version! Not the best of Accucraft's offerings, as its still in bits. My next winter project.
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Bob Dunlop
I Love G Scale, 16mm, 1/20.3 & 7/8ths
Thanks guys, the link to the exploded drawings is very useful as I didn't know that it existed.
Cheers
Bob
Cheers
Bob
Neil Robinson
Registered
O.K., here's how I'd do it.
Have a copy of the exploded drawing in the link already posted to hand.
Lift out the fake coal and put it to one side
Remove the six small cross point screws from the coal bunker top using a well fitting screwdriver.
The other side is similar.
Remove the circlip from the cab floor and unplug the two sets of wires from the coal bunker making a note of which set goes where. Detach the rear bunker from the rest of the loco.
This allows easy access to the two remaining screws. It may be possible to get at them without separating the units but I prefer to separate them.
One of the screws is ringed in this image, Don't undo the nearby slotted screws that hold the switch in place, just the two cross points.
Lift off the bunker top, unplug the switch cable from the circuit board and put the bunker top to one side.
The image below is of a detached spare circuit board.
I have taken all images myself, please feel free to copy and send them elsewhere if needs be.
The following is suggested in good faith, but I haven't personally chipped mine so I recommend that you get confirmation from the supplier of your chip(s) and follow their advice.
Switch all six dip switches in the top right hand corner to OFF. They are ON in the photo.
This board was designed to take two single motor decoders with one also providing other functions
Observe the two rows of four pins (X1A and X1B) below the switches, one row for each decoder.
These are coded ge (Yellow) ws (White) br (Brown) and gn (Green).
Your decoders should have matching wires with plugs.
One decoder may also be supplied with additional wires that terminate in a plug that fits the blue socket to the left of the pins. Alternatively wires may be needed to connect to the pins below the blue socket
Both decoders need to be set to the same address, your supplier should be able to do this or just confirm its setting (most likely 3) if you're not happy to try yourself.
Double check all connections and dealer recommendations/settings, reassemble and have fun.
Have a copy of the exploded drawing in the link already posted to hand.
Lift out the fake coal and put it to one side
Remove the six small cross point screws from the coal bunker top using a well fitting screwdriver.
The other side is similar.
Remove the circlip from the cab floor and unplug the two sets of wires from the coal bunker making a note of which set goes where. Detach the rear bunker from the rest of the loco.
This allows easy access to the two remaining screws. It may be possible to get at them without separating the units but I prefer to separate them.
One of the screws is ringed in this image, Don't undo the nearby slotted screws that hold the switch in place, just the two cross points.
Lift off the bunker top, unplug the switch cable from the circuit board and put the bunker top to one side.
The image below is of a detached spare circuit board.
I have taken all images myself, please feel free to copy and send them elsewhere if needs be.
The following is suggested in good faith, but I haven't personally chipped mine so I recommend that you get confirmation from the supplier of your chip(s) and follow their advice.
Switch all six dip switches in the top right hand corner to OFF. They are ON in the photo.
This board was designed to take two single motor decoders with one also providing other functions
Observe the two rows of four pins (X1A and X1B) below the switches, one row for each decoder.
These are coded ge (Yellow) ws (White) br (Brown) and gn (Green).
Your decoders should have matching wires with plugs.
One decoder may also be supplied with additional wires that terminate in a plug that fits the blue socket to the left of the pins. Alternatively wires may be needed to connect to the pins below the blue socket
Both decoders need to be set to the same address, your supplier should be able to do this or just confirm its setting (most likely 3) if you're not happy to try yourself.
Double check all connections and dealer recommendations/settings, reassemble and have fun.
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Bob Dunlop
I Love G Scale, 16mm, 1/20.3 & 7/8ths
Hi Neil, that really covers everything I need to know, a really great set of instructions.
Many thanks
Bob
Many thanks
Bob
PaulRhB
This Way Up
One thing I've always done on these twin chip installations is bridge the track pins, (brown to brown and white to white), so both units are linked for pickup. This eliminates one stopping while the other is driving if it hits a dead spot. I usually use one XL decoder as well so that saves space too.
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
Good idea, so would I.
As I just mentioned in your "other" thread, the 55027 has a 10pin interface, you would have to remove the connector and wire up a 6pin connector as well as split the track and the motor wires and use appropriate connectors for the pins.
Far easier to either,
Use a Massoth XL (8150001 @ £52) and a Massoth 6 pin interface cable (8312061 @ £5).
or
2x LGB55021 (or Massoth equivalent - eMotion L) decoders and a 6 pin interface cable.
Far easier to either,
Use a Massoth XL (8150001 @ £52) and a Massoth 6 pin interface cable (8312061 @ £5).
or
2x LGB55021 (or Massoth equivalent - eMotion L) decoders and a 6 pin interface cable.
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
From what I recall, having had a couple of locos with early MTS installations like this: The two 55021 decoders are each wired to one set of the four pins (green/yellow/white/brown) on the loco main board, so each decoder is driving one power unit; the 55026 interface cable is installed with the 6-pin plug into the socket on the loco board, and the six wire ends (which should each be terminated in a standard LGB push-on spade) go to six of the pins on just ONE of the decoders (I don't think it matters which) in accordance with the instructions for the cable and decoder. The interface cable deals with functions such as lights, smoke and sound (if fitted).
Check all the instructions carefully, there will be a bank of dip switches on the loco board which MUST be set correctly when the decoders are installed, otherwise the magic smoke will escape..... from memory I think they are set ON for analogue operation, and to OFF when the decoder(s) are installed, but double-check that with the instructions rather than taking my word for it!
Jon.