Chassis swap (Updated!)

[Miamigo259]

When the first NQ wagons appeared on the market a couple of years ago, I obtained one of the box vans and gave it a repaint prior to use on my line.
Since then, I have aquired further wagons for rebuilding into other things or just to use the chassis from the bogie open wagons as a base for a scratchbuilt body.

Whilst running the original van the other day, I decided to see whether it could be converted to take one of the aforementioned bogie wagon chassis, as this partricular van has never really been a good runner. A quick comparison of the length of the van and the bogie wagon meant that by removing about 10mm at each end of the wagon chassis, a conversion job could be carried out fairly quickly. About an hours time with a few plasticard offcuts, a saw and some glue/paint gave the following result..........

One in original condition is in the background

The outer pair of tie bars on the bogie chassis had to be removed and a new end platform constructed but other than that it was a very simple job which has altered the appearance of the van quite a bit.
The original chassis from the van will now be reused under the open wagon body to produce a slightly shortened vehicle a bit like a BR Tube wagon........

 

[Rhinochugger]

Re:Chassis swap

8 wheels good, 4 wheels bad

 

[pugwash]

Re:Chassis swap

Why was it a poor runner as a 4-wheeler? I have 3 of the tank wagons and with metal wheels they run as well as other stock. Perhaps the van was missing weight?
Still, smart job

 

[Miamigo259]

Re:Chassis swap

Why was it a poor runner as a 4-wheeler? I have 3 of the tank wagons and with metal wheels they run as well as other stock. Perhaps the van was missing weight?
Still, smart job

I've not converted any of mine to metal wheels yet, though I do have some metal ones "in stock" and the former van chassis is already in line for receiving a pair when I carry out the "Tube wagon" conversion on it.
The other van that I rebuilt by removing the end platform seems to run OK, so it may be something about this particular example causing a problem.

 

[korm kormsen]

Re:Chassis swap

i got three of these boxvans.
all three of them were no good runners. on one i made a simple alteration. i drilled the holes/bearings for the aixle stubs a tiny bit bigger.
that helps somewhat.

the other problem in two aixle cars is the alineation of the wheels. if the wheelset does not turn straight again after the train gets out of a curve, they work like a brake. (this specially affects the last car on a train)
years ago in a forum i found a solution for this. a connecing rod between the two wheelsets.
this rod has to connect both wheelsets in a diagonal way. thus it obligates the trailing aixle, to turn exactly the same degree, as the forward aixle gets drawn.

 

[GlenF]

Re:Chassis swap

years ago in a forum i found a solution for this. a connecing rod between the two wheelsets.
this rod has to connect both wheelsets in a diagonal way. thus it obligates the trailing aixle, to turn exactly the same degree, as the forward aixle gets drawn.

Yes I also remember seeing that post but haven't been able to find it again since. Sounded like a good solution. Any idea where it was?

I've got a couple of those NQ wagons (now fitted with metal wheels) and they don't really like R1 curves because of the long wheelbase and the fact that the wheels don't always swivel as they should. The tank wagons have a shorter wheelbase and roll much better through sharp curves.

 

[Gizzy]

Re:Chassis swap

Often wondered if these, (and also some of the LGB wagons) could be simply converted by adding bogie trucks to a different pivot point?

I've seen bogie versions of the classic LGB 4 wheeled coach for the US market, so is there another 'hole' for a 4 wheel bogie or is the same one used for either the 2 wheel or 4 wheel truck....

 

[LTfan]

Re:Chassis swap

Often wondered if these, (and also some of the LGB wagons) could be simply converted by adding bogie trucks to a different pivot point?
I've seen bogie versions of the classic LGB 4 wheeled coach for the US market, so is there another 'hole' for a 4 wheel bogie or is the same one used for either the 2 wheel or 4 wheel truck....

Gizzy - there was a tip on one of the earlier forums.
I pretty much have ten thumbs but I found it very easy.
The WP&Y bogie coach and baggage van have the same length chassis and bodyshell as the 4-wheelers.
I compromised by usng the WP&Y chassis complete with the end handrails with brake wheels - trying to use those from the 4-wheelers looked like mega-grief.
Removing the roofs, unscrewing the bodies and swopping them over was very easy.
The WP&Y green is the same shade that LGB used on my green 4-wheeler - to this day I don't know which doors went on which body.
Vast improvement in free-running - anyone who did this to all their freight stock would be able to run much longer trains.
Cheers
David
Edit - I think the coupling stuck out slightly more then previously.

 

[wandgrudd]

Re:Chassis swap

years ago in a forum i found a solution for this. a connecing rod between the two wheelsets.
this rod has to connect both wheelsets in a diagonal way. thus it obligates the trailing aixle, to turn exactly the same degree, as the forward aixle gets drawn.

Yes I also remember seeing that post but haven't been able to find it again since. Sounded like a good solution. Any idea where it was?

I've got a couple of those NQ wagons (now fitted with metal wheels) and they don't really like R1 curves because of the long wheelbase and the fact that the wheels don't always swivel as they should. The tank wagons have a shorter wheelbase and roll much better through sharp curves.

there you go http://mariazellerbahn.webs.com/trickstips.htm

 

[GlenF]

Re:Chassis swap

years ago in a forum i found a solution for this. a connecing rod between the two wheelsets.
this rod has to connect both wheelsets in a diagonal way. thus it obligates the trailing aixle, to turn exactly the same degree, as the forward aixle gets drawn.

Yes I also remember seeing that post but haven't been able to find it again since. Sounded like a good solution. Any idea where it was?

I've got a couple of those NQ wagons (now fitted with metal wheels) and they don't really like R1 curves because of the long wheelbase and the fact that the wheels don't always swivel as they should. The tank wagons have a shorter wheelbase and roll much better through sharp curves.

there you go http://mariazellerbahn.webs.com/trickstips.htm

Thank you, been trying to find that article for the past 6 months! Should have bookmarked it in the first place. But I can now give it a try and see how it works out.

 

[korm kormsen]

Re:Chassis swap

years ago in a forum i found a solution for this. a connecing rod between the two wheelsets.
this rod has to connect both wheelsets in a diagonal way. thus it obligates the trailing aixle, to turn exactly the same degree, as the forward aixle gets drawn.

Yes I also remember seeing that post but haven't been able to find it again since. Sounded like a good solution. Any idea where it was?

I've got a couple of those NQ wagons (now fitted with metal wheels) and they don't really like R1 curves because of the long wheelbase and the fact that the wheels don't always swivel as they should. The tank wagons have a shorter wheelbase and roll much better through sharp curves.

there you go http://mariazellerbahn.webs.com/trickstips.htm

no, that is not, what i referred to.
i meant an even easier way. just a wire hooked around the brake arms. no alterations of the car.

i saved the pics.
?

 

[Miamigo259]

Re:Chassis swap

years ago in a forum i found a solution for this. a connecing rod between the two wheelsets.
this rod has to connect both wheelsets in a diagonal way. thus it obligates the trailing aixle, to turn exactly the same degree, as the forward aixle gets drawn.

Yes I also remember seeing that post but haven't been able to find it again since. Sounded like a good solution. Any idea where it was?

I've got a couple of those NQ wagons (now fitted with metal wheels) and they don't really like R1 curves because of the long wheelbase and the fact that the wheels don't always swivel as they should. The tank wagons have a shorter wheelbase and roll much better through sharp curves.

there you go http://mariazellerbahn.webs.com/trickstips.htm

no, that is not, what i referred to.
i meant an even easier way. just a wire hooked around the brake arms. no alterations of the car.

The wire version looks a lot simpler so I think I'll give that a try on the 4-wheel chassis I am going to re-use.

 

[a98087]

Re:Chassis swap

I tried some of the newquida bogie wagons with piko metal wheels in only the outside axle of each bogie and it makes a noticable difference to its rolling.

Its a worthwhile change, and I presume metal wheels would do wonders for the 2 axle stock

 

[Miamigo259]

Re:Chassis swap (Updated)

Having a bit of time spare yesterday, I decided to get on with the 4-wheel open wagon conversion using the spare body from the bogie open wagon used under the van mentioned above and the 4-wheel chassis from the closed van.
The 4-wheel chassis had the wooden end platform removed and the ends of some of the cross-members removed so that it will fit under the bottom of the open wagon. Some plasticard was used to cover the area where the axles on the 4-wheel chassis pivot, as the wagon body will be mounted too high for these to operate in their original fashion. I took the opportunity to clean up the axle assemblies with a file and this seems to have cured the previous poor running of this particular chassis. The plastic wheels are going to be retained for now, but I'll most probably link the two units together as per one of the posts above.

A raid on the spares box found the discarded end-railing assembly from a previously kitbashed van together with some brake pipes and a handbrake mechanism.
I fixed the railings to one end of the chassis.......

And then glued the 4-wheel chassis to the bottom of the wagon body. A couple of plasticard spacers were used between the two as I couldn't be bothered to remove the molded-on brake pipes under the wagon body!

An initial coat of paint later and it looks completely different!

Will post a few more pictures when it is fully painted and lettered.

 

[jameshilton]

Re:Chassis swap (Updated)

Looks great!

 

[daveyb]

Re:Chassis swap (Updated)

nice,,,,,,, like it!!

 

[ceejaydee]

Re:Chassis swap (Updated)

I think that both items of rolling stock benefit from the makeover.
I have one of the vans and it is huge, so huge that I was thinking of turning it into a standard gauge (G3) van.
However your conversion has showed that a very attractive alternative is possible.
One question - did you use standard plastic solvent on the chassis to attach your plasticard modifications or something else?

 

[Miamigo259]

Re:Chassis swap (Updated)

I think that both items of rolling stock benefit from the makeover.
I have one of the vans and it is huge, so huge that I was thinking of turning it into a standard gauge (G3) van.
However your conversion has showed that a very attractive alternative is possible.
One question - did you use standard plastic solvent on the chassis to attach your plasticard modifications or something else?

I stuck (if you pardon the pun..) with good old Evo-Stick rather than try to use anything like Mek-Pak or similar.
The plastic they use seems to defy the normal plastic cements, possibly due to its shiny appearance and polished texture. A light rub over with coarse sandpaper before applying the glue helps the bonding process.
It just seems to be a problem with bonding, as paint appears to hold on the surfaces quite happily!

I've still got one van "in stock", together with five bogie open wagons and a coach, so am busy thinking up various conversion jobs for the winter, apart from the brake coach I need to produce to go with the "Argentine style" open coach I made earlier this year.
If I can lay my hands on another van, I was thinking of combining two of them to make a longer bogie van and a shorter 4-wheel one.

 

[ceejaydee]

Re:Chassis swap (Updated)

I stuck (if you pardon the pun..) with good old Evo-Stick rather than try to use anything like Mek-Pak or similar.
The plastic they use seems to defy the normal plastic cements, possibly due to its shiny appearance and polished texture. A light rub over with coarse sandpaper before applying the glue helps the bonding process.
It just seems to be a problem with bonding, as paint appears to hold on the surfaces quite happily!

Thanks - I thought that may be the case having had a quick inspection of the van chassis but there is no substitute for asking someone who has worked on one.

I don't know for sure but the tank wagon chassis looks like it may be a different 'harder' plastic.

 

[Miamigo259]

Re:Chassis swap (Updated)

A couple of photos of the completed wagon are shown below. I made a sheeted load out of a few odd pieces of wood covered with some fabric which will add weight to the vehicle, as it was still a bit on the light side.