Bridge building materials
- Thread starter adeshers
- Start date
That's a lot clearer, thanks 8| .
I see you have managed to bend certain lengths to produce a curve. Does the metal angle bend easily or did you have to cut it to encourage around the curve??
Ade
I see you have managed to bend certain lengths to produce a curve. Does the metal angle bend easily or did you have to cut it to encourage around the curve??
Ade
There are small scolops on the outer edges; so if you cut every third one, with tin snips up, to the bevelled edge it forms almost a natural curve over abour 16 inches by applying minimium pressure. In the case of the curves shown it was possible to do the same technique about an inch from each end to form an attachment tab which can then be rivetted to the other sections!
jetomlin said:
Hi looks great and feeling inspired now!
how did you hold it together?is it nuts and bolts or pot rivets?
Brian
Pop rivets! ( if one makes a mistake the Aluminium rivet is easily drilled out , thereby allowing repositioning, if necessary!)
I've started experimenting (I'll post some pics tomorrow). If anybody is following this thread and wants to start 3mm pop rivets provide a nice tight fastening but they can be a tight fit to get through depending on the alignment of the holes / slots.
adeshers said:
As promised.
This is the gap I needed to bridge but because it comes immediately after a junction a double joined affair was required.
I first started on the track nearest the back wall. For the base of this (basically) straight bridge I retained the integrity of the longitudinal 'beams' and cut the cross beams to suit. I subsequently found that this was not wise and I later had to add a strengthening strip of sold metal.
I kept returning to site to check the fit.
The branchline base was then made (this time the cross beams were left entire) and offered up to the gap.
I then started on the side pieces (I'm sure they have a technical term). To try to make them more cosmetically acceptable I made these using two lengths of the beading fastened together.
Next strengthening pieces were added to produce the familiar girder effect.
I then started on the side pieces (I'm sure they have a technical term). To try to make them more cosmetically acceptable I made these using two lengths of the beading fastened together.
Next strengthening pieces were added to produce the familiar girder effect.
Offering the bridge to site revealed that my half height side pieces were cunningly designed to block out the view for any tourists using the trains
The bridge was built up in the same manner until all that was left was the difficult (for me at least) joined up bit in the middle.
The bridge was built up in the same manner until all that was left was the difficult (for me at least) joined up bit in the middle.
The middle section was difficult due to lack of space to get the riveter in position but I only had to dismantle two sections to achieve my goal.
And finally (for today) the 'finished' bridge in position.
I intend to spray the bridge with Halfords Red undercoat.
I intend to spray the bridge with Halfords Red undercoat.
Nice Job!
If the sides become a little 'floppy', you might need to put an arch rod in place. I found some screw stock in a local bancrupt stock store and this worked a treat for my first lift out bridge....but there again the sides of my bridge were that much taller than yours , I would guess from your pictures!
If the sides become a little 'floppy', you might need to put an arch rod in place. I found some screw stock in a local bancrupt stock store and this worked a treat for my first lift out bridge....but there again the sides of my bridge were that much taller than yours , I would guess from your pictures!
My own attempts have involved using wood - I built this one (9ft long) from pallet wood and some 3 x 2 ripped down. As I have a saw table, this doesn't present a problem. The bridge is based on one on the Oban - Ballachulish line (I don't kow if I've spelt that correctly.
Mick
Mick
adeshers said:
What you have built is a 3 panel Warren Pony Truss and nicely done
The side pieces are the trusses.
The top and bottom of the truss are the top and bottom chords.
The members making the triangles are the diagonals and are either under tension or compression.
Thanks Spike, I can now sound less ignorant. 8| .
3 panel Warren Pony Truss - that sounds quite impressive.
3 panel Warren Pony Truss - that sounds quite impressive.