BACHMANN KNUCKLE COUPLERS

duncan1_9_8_4

duncan1_9_8_4

UK Railway Signaller and Garden Railway Operator
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I like the bachmann knuckle couplers, is it possible to fit them to LGB/PIKO stock easily???? I hate the big loop and hook things, the knuckle looks a whole lot more realistic. I ask this because i am breaking into the bachmann locomotives, and would like the knuckles on all my stock, LGB loco's too. Thanks.
 
As far as the standard plastic Bachmann knuckles go, yes, they're a straight swap on LGB stock. Cannot comment on Piko stock as I don't have any.

However LGB stock doesn't have a suitable small loop/hole to take the flexible "stalk" on tthe rear of the knuckle that's used to self-centre it. I tend to just cut the stalk off and let the knucke flop from side to side, but alternatively it's possible to fit some sort of loop of metal wire to retain the stalk.

Not sure about the metal Bachmann knuckles, the few that I've had supplied with locos have a different mount. I'd hope that they are available with a standard shank as they are better couplings.

Generally speaking I prefer the look of knuckles to hook and loop, but do remember that there are compatability niggles with the different manufacturers' knuckles whereas hook and loops all seem to work together fine. With knuckles it's best to standardise on one brand. I use Bachmann, with a few Aristos that I've fettled to improve the fit with Bachmann.

I also keep a couple of converter wagons/coaches with knuckle on one end and hook and loop on the other, for use with unconverted stock and/or friends' stock.
 
i have done the opposite so i can send you a packet! let me know if your interested. I am off to portugal in the morning so if i don't respond for a week don't worry, i will send them :thumbup:
 
The Bachmann Knuckles when replacing LGB etc, can be centred by using an Electrical Tie looped around the shank to hold the Knuckle in the centre, but still allow some sideways movement if and when required. I have standardised on the Bachmann Knucke Coupler on all my LGB, Aristo, USA Trains etc.

Seems to retrofit most brands of Rolling Stock and locomotives.

Regards, Danny in Oz.
 
Duncan I have a bagful of old Bachman couplings, I use KD's and USA Trains, that you are welcome to for the cost of postage?
Most have been cut off from the trucks and still have the tang on them. They would be good enough for experimenting with what you want to do, hence the price:laugh:
Rod
 
I have to say that I like the appearance of Bachmann couplers but have found that can possess a weakness on longer trains. Any division of a train has always been on those with Bachmann couplers.

As my stock is 60% Aristo and 40% Bachmann (1.22.5) I decided to exchange all Bachmann couplers for Aristo giving me unified stock couplers which includes locos.

I have only bought Aristo stock in recent times and consequently have sold some Bachmann stock. The latest addition here is an Aristo FA-1 locomotive and there is a boxcar (not available in the UK) on its way from the States right now.

I accept the popularity of Kadee couplers but personally I don't like the 'tail' that they have and feel that on a railroad at ground level the 'tail' could cause unwanted uncouplings and a consequential wreck. I have bushes and trees that drop things to the ground. ;)
 
If u change to knuckles, dont make half things.
Its really worth a thought to take kadee couplers.
If u have R min 1200 mm (4 ft.) and not too sharp "S"-curves, u can make them body mount, what gives a great performance and a MUCH better look than the bachmann couplers.

Fore more:
I hope u are talkin about bachmann spectrum couplers.
The bachmann large scale couplers are BAD. They have a construction bug that let them uncouple time by time. IF u have one, it will open EVERY time u go on an incline.

Greetings

Frank
 
Rod Fearnley said:
Duncan I have a bagful of old Bachman couplings, I use KD's and USA Trains, that you are welcome to for the cost of postage?
Most have been cut off from the trucks and still have the tang on them. They would be good enough for experimenting with what you want to do, hence the price:laugh:
Rod
Click to expand...

Rod

I have 8 trucks without the tangs,
if you have any spare i would be happy to buy a few of you
have plenty of couplers only need the tangs
 
Rob PM me your address. I probably have what you need? I know a couple of the Tangs have USAT couplers on them, but I could probably swap them out for Bachmans for you.
No cost, just postage ok?
Rod
 
I have used all knuckle systems through the years of me layout and have found the following:
USAT knuckles are good except for when in high tension situations ie a heavy consist going up a grade. Then they can separate fairly easily even the ones on the aluminium streamline cars, I know, I have watched one of my prized Rio Grande 'Ski Train' cars run back down my grade at increasing pace!)
Bachamnn knuckles great for narrow gauge 1:20.3 scale consists as long as not heavy consist going up a grade. They also look pretty good especially the metal variety. The smaller plastic type used on some of the Bachmann 1:29 scale rolling stock are not so strong. They did start to use the 1:20.3 scale ones on more recent editions of 1:29 scale (last few years) and these can, if you are finicky, look a little out of scale (but that is true for most makes except possibly for the Kadees)
Accucraft knuckles look the biz BUT not strong enough if....yes you've guessed it..on a heavy consist going up a grade.
LGB knuckles very good if you can get them but they too are a little weak on.............a heavy consist going up a grade
Aristocraft knuckles are the strongest couplers ( I have a very heavy grade and have triple headed diesels hauling up to 6 aluminium streamliners coaches up that grade. I have never (oh dear ...tempting providence again) had a breakaway using the Aristo couplers. The only problem with them is that their release bar does hang a little low and can be nudged if you have a large piece of ballast or heavy twig lying in the centre between your rails on top of a tie. A good idea is to cut about 3-5mm from the bar if your track could be affected by 'lumps or bumps'.
Interestingly Kadees are great in appearance and operate in a prototypical method but they are troublesome if not looked after (corrosion, they rust pretty easily especially the hanging lift spar etc if not protected with corrosion inhibiter). I have had breakaways on long consists.

If you have a layout without major grades and you do not try to haul as many cars as you can then all of the manufacturers knuckles will serve you well. Some varieties are compatible even if you have to drop one car knuckle into place over another when the knuckles are closed. BUT it is best to standardise, as mixing and matching will eventually lead to tears. If cost is the concern and you cannot get access to freebies then Bachmann could be the cheapest option unless you buy rolling stock new and get the manufacturer's knuckles in the box!

If your track is very 'undulating' or just plain uneven, then perhaps knuckles are not for you because even the best will eventually ride over each other or just unhook because of differing heights of the cars as they navigate the undulating track. Hook and loops are mainly unaffected by this.

The comparisons above are based on experiences where the track is both undulating and non-undulating and running through curves of R3 and wider (the length of coupler bar and amount of swing is also important here). Using a test pair of knuckle endowed cars is a good quick way of testing the general 'even-ness' of your track before you investigate further using straight edges and spirit levels.
 
I use USA Trains and Bachmann couplers. All Aristo locos and stock have been refitted with USAT or Bachmann knuckles. In my experience USAT and Bachmannn work fine together and very rarely give any trouble. The only exception being the couplings on my two J&S coaches which do like to open by themselves.

I have found both makes of coupling are completely reliable when running long trains as in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXQUDVPQJGY .

I have also found that with knuckle couplers a snail between the rails can uncouple every wagon - and no doubt the snail will wonder what on earth is happening!
 
Chris M said:
I have found both makes of coupling are completely reliable when running long trains as in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXQUDVPQJGY .

I have also found that with knuckle couplers a snail between the rails can uncouple every wagon - and no doubt the snail will wonder what on earth is happening!
Click to expand...

Hi Chris
Your gradients are lovely smooth, gradual, not too steep and no fairly quick change between incline or decline. My points about the knuckles relates to that type of layout. So I have had to put the couplings through quite extreme experiences and my findings are based on that

Even body mounted couplings will exhibit problems on steep incline/declines (especially also if there is excessive body swing on sharper curves than the body mounted type can cope with) due to the forces of the rolling stock following on a down grade or pulling on an incline. Here the strength of the coupling really does rely on its design of latching hook and non flexibility of the plastic used.
If you have a great, more or less flat layout with no sharp curves and gradients that are easy then all the couplings will serve well. If you have a layout that is really testing then I have found Aristocraft knuckles to stand the test of time where the others have let me down (and yes they were height and stability checked as well!)

As for the snails, well encourage a few blackbirds or thrushes as your little helpers
 
I use the bachmann couplers for one reason, they are affordable compared to kadee. I run narrow guage with short cars so weight is never an issue. Their are a few quick fixes you can do to Bachmann. One they have a tendancy to sag down. I replace the plastic clip that holds the knuckle to the part that screws on the car. I replace it with a small screw and nut. This keeps it tighter and does not sag. I also body mount all mine as well. It is easy to install bachmann couplers on anything. Sometimes you need to add a shim or something to get the correct height.
 
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