Bachmann C-19

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Rhinochugger

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So here's what I have done, from the W tabs (R + L) I have used a bridge rectifier, then a voltage control circuit to provide 9v to the Annie sound board.

Outputs from the Annie sound board are shown here

IMG_20190220_0002.jpg
 

Rhinochugger

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This might help, or confuse the issue altogether!

View attachment 248995
Ah, my Annie sound board looks a bit different :oops:

I've still got the volume control / switch potentiometer connected.

DSCF1184.JPG

The black wire from the pot which is difficult to see as it's at the bottom and pointing at the camera, is going to J1-7 GND

The wire to the Chuff Sensor tab comes out under the board adjacent to the green 9v+ input (brown is 9v- input) and on the underside looks as if it is connected to the 9v+ in the printed circuit.

Grey and red are speaker wires.

Note - this photo is the second board - the other one is half in the C-19 tender :devil::devil:
 
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Rhinochugger

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Black wires, shown separately for clarity how both parts are interconnected, and to trace the connections back for fault finding, when satisfied all works, then I'd join all the black GND's together..................

Do you have a picture of the Annie soundboard?
Yes, I've just posted it above :)
 
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beavercreek

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Rhino, If I remember correctly, the Annie tender sound board (from all but the new metal geared model) uses a 9v battery power supply that is put into the water filler compartment.
When I replaced all of my Annie sound cards with LGB Uintah/Sumpter mallet boards, I used track power for them and a hall sensor on one of the tender axles for the chuff.
Not sure if this is of any help... apologies if it is a red herring Ian...

EDIT ... apologies mate, you have allowed for the 9v already...message to self .....'DO NOT SKIM READ!'
 
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Rhinochugger

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Rhino, If I remember correctly, the Annie tender sound board (from all but the new metal geared model) uses a 9v battery power supply that is put into the water filler compartment.
When I replaced all of my Annie sound cards with LGB Uintah/Sumpter mallet boards, I used track power for them and a hall sensor on one of the tender axles for the chuff.
Not sure if this is of any help... apologies if it is a red herring Ian...

EDIT ... apologies mate, you have allowed for the 9v already...message to self .....'DO NOT SKIM READ!'
Yeah, the 9v battery supplies are a PITA - and more so with the Mylocosound card where you use a re-chargeable that is meant to self-trickle charge but always seems to be running out of puff o_O
 

PhilP

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Yeah, the 9v battery supplies are a PITA - and more so with the Mylocosound card where you use a re-chargeable that is meant to self-trickle charge but always seems to be running out of puff o_O

That's 'cos sittin' in da shed, it has gone flat, and as it trickle charges, it needs running for at least half an hour at 3/4 throttle to get anything back into the battery..

Hence do away with it, if possible.. - But does mean no sounds when stationary.
 

Rhinochugger

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That's 'cos sittin' in da shed, it has gone flat, and as it trickle charges, it needs running for at least half an hour at 3/4 throttle to get anything back into the battery..

Hence do away with it, if possible.. - But does mean no sounds when stationary.
Even when it's new - a day's running, and it's usually flat :(

...........and I have added a charging socket for top ups between testing sessions.

I run double headed to keep the volts up - helps with slightly less than perfickly clean track as well, but if the sound is at full volume the PP3 doesn't seem able to keep up o_O

Part of the problem is that Bachmann motors run on pretty low power, but the trickle charge PP3 has been less than successful :shake::shake:
 

beavercreek

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The cap bank still needs a regulator / charger in addition... by that time you can just use the "boost regulator" by itself which is cheaper than the cap bank too.

Greg

Ian had said that the battery keeps running down so I was suggesting a cap bank in place of the battery as it would, if there was enough juice, charge quicker than a battery...and yes it would also need the regulator
 

Rhinochugger

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It's all very complicated :emo::emo: I might go back to the principal behind my very first model railway - before n gauge arrived it was called Treble-0; all diecast, including the track, and you pushed the trains round :nerd::nerd::nerd::nerd: