Are R1's really cheaper.

stockers

stockers

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It is often stated here on this great forum that R1s are being used because its cheaper. Not necessarily so.
Agreed - if space is tight R1s allow one to build a railway in that small space. We have LGB to thank for that.
However, using R1s for the sake of it hardly adds up.
6a38a85cd4a14b08bb40b0ad9eea9618.jpg

This plan uses 12 R1 curves AND 16 short straights.
OR 16 R3 curves.
Using Dragons pricing - thats £ 165.64 for the R1 circle and £ 179.59 the R3. Just £14 more and stock looks and runs better.
As for pointwork.
An R1 turnout has two tracks totalling about 600mm
an R3 has two tracks totalling about 900mm

To make a comparison I will use the powered turnouts to keep everything else the same. R1s are £53.06 and R3s £71.44. Seeing as an R3 is half as long again as an R1 it works out about £8 cheaper.
So- come on folkes. If you have room go for R3s (or bigger). Even if you have a stash of R1s in the cupboard the e-bay price is often above the new price - so sell them.

That should set up a healthy Sunday evening discussion.:rolf:
 
and a brilliant line it is too mate - space is often the controlling issue - but I did notice a few easier curves where space allows - looks great.
 
I guess the shorter, often LGB and similar make rolling stock, seem fine on R1's, which are basically a European industrial style turnout but for anyone who models larger - usually American prototype models - they seem completely inappropriate.
It seems that the very small radius curves are used when space is at a premium but in my case I never considered using only one side of my garden for the railway and using areas, as close to the perimeter of my back garden as possible, allowed for R3's. I would, naturally, have preferred even larger radius curves but, like many folks, do not have a large garden. Actually my front garden has lots more space but did not feel that was where the railway should be located.
 
Got a few larger curves, but due to space, and wanting some garden left, i went for r1s. If you happen to be modeling narrow gauge anyway, id say the r1 look more realistic. Take the real life Selktel Bahn on the HSB.
 
duncan1_9_8_4 said:
Got a few larger curves, but due to space, and wanting some garden left, i went for r1s. If you happen to be modeling narrow gauge anyway, id say the r1 look more realistic. Take the real life Selktel Bahn on the HSB.
Click to expand...
Minimum radius 60 metres (just North of Steinerre Renne - between Wernigerode and Drei Annen Hohne) . At 22.5:1 thats about 2.7 metres radius - 5.2 metres diameter.
 
Sorry Duncan, I wasn't clear - The 60 metres I refered to is the sharpest curve on the HSB
 
hehe, ah right. and to scale what would that make a r1, in meters if it were in real life, if you get what i mean. Not that i should be bothered, iv got gp38s and a f1 on my layout. its the ballast and the garden that makes it look good, what ever the radius. i suppose a r5 looks rubbish without a nice garden.
 
13.5 metres radius Mate.
 
I'm using R1s (and R2 for parallel track) because of space constraints.

Works for me, as I'm narrow gauge European, and I have mostly straight track anyway, as everyone knows It's flat in East Anglia!

If I was modelling US, then the larger radii curves would be preferable, but if you have something like an NW2 with shorter cars then I don't see R1 as a problem.

Below is Weybourne curve; R1/2 LGB track, and it looks fine to me....

5038f45009824811b8605451a4e5d16e.jpg
 
duncan1_9_8_4 said:
i suppose a r5 looks rubbish without a nice garden.
Click to expand...

Not at all Duncan. Even in a small area that may need R1s in places, a few lazy curves can look brilliant - perhaps better than straights in places.:bigsmile:
 
Your dead right Gizzy. I was just pointing out that if space IS available then larger radius is not necessarily a greater cost.
 
stockers said:
Your dead right Gizzy. I was just pointing out that if space IS available then larger radius is not necessarily a greater cost.
Click to expand...

One good thing about R1s though Alan?

Second hand ones are plentiful, cheap as chips, and can be re-radiused, or even straightened.

Useful to know if you are just starting out in G....
 
Good tip Gizzy.:thumbup::thumbup:
 
USED r-1s are MUCH, MUCH cheaper. That's where you can build a bunch on a small budget. With so many lightly used starter set circles out there, why buy new?

Last summer it took me two months to find someone to GIVE away a circle of Aristo stuff to. Nobody wanted it.
 
Well I've tweaked my plans now, using R3 points for the station area (keeping an R1 in the siding for space reasons), and limiting R1s to just the apex of a few corners and using R2 and R3s to transition, along with some R5s as lazy curves. I can't wait to get building but a long way to go, if it wasn't for threads like this I'd not have challenged my mind with breaking away from geometric R1 layouts.
 
R1 curves can be straightened, just remove the brass lip on the fishplate that locates in the plastic sleeper. Then, with care, remove the rail from the sleeper web, the rail should slide out. Repeat with the other rail. If doing say, half a circle, you will have six long rails, and six smaller rails. KEEP The sleepers and webbing. Now straighten the long rails carefully in the vice. Repeat with the smaller rails. Now the sleepers and webbing. The end sleeper will have a slot for the fishplate brass lip slot. Now fit a new fish plate or use the existing fishplate; slide the sleepers back on, but turn each sleeper 180* to even out the curve, or remove totally the webbing. Then slide the other rail of the same length, on to the other end of the sleeper and fit fish plate. When finished you will have three small straights and three longer straights. Job done! Now have a brew! Alyn
 
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