A tale of three reeds - Piko 35272

[James Day]

Dear All,

I embraced EPL Technology back in the 1980s. I followed the system as it developed and soon got rid of all my solenoids.

My trains could now switch themselves, using the on board magnets and the wonderful 1700 Track Contacts. I quite liked them. The were neat and clipped to the track like the signals, catenary masts and cable clips.

Obviously the EPL range continued to develop and the mechanism itself went through several evolutions, as did the add on switch, the control boxes and then regrettably the wretched reeds.

The revised style LGB reed - 17100 is a horribly delicate thing that seems ridiculously fragile. I loathe the way it clips to the track (until the clips break) and am not crazy about the way the cables go in. several of mine have needed to be shown love, affection and a soldering iron to get them back to work. The bases are the most annoying thing as they seem to break very easily. Years ago LGB would sell you any bits that you wanted to repair, or make your own stuff, these days your lucky if you even get a reply.

I have tried making my own , which was reasonably successful, but I like the clip together nature of LGB and having recently used up a stack of stuff extending the line, I needed to re-stock on a few essentials.

I decided there and then never to buy any more 17100s. I searched out some new, or nearly new 1700s, from a number or sources, but given their age and potential use, they could be an unknown quantity. I wanted something new that was readily obtainable and then I saw the relatively new PIKO 35272.

This does exactly the same job as the 17100 and much loved 1700, but looks a lot more positive than the former.

Mine came from Gaugemaster at 12.75 GBP each, but Glendale are offering them at 10.50 GBP when they have them. These make them cheaper than the loathsome 17100, no matter where you buy them.

I like the way the whole `gubbins` of the thing sits within the box, and the way the lid clips firmly in place. I don`t like the lack of any indication as to which terminal is which, but the connections are the same way round as LGB and do the same job, so I am sure I can cope. The wings that clip them into the track base look worryingly like the 17100, except that on the PIKO version these are more meaty, which hopefully means stronger?

There are no drain holes in the base of the box containing the circuit board with the reed and the instructions emphasize that they should not be allowed to sit in water, but placed somewhere dry, where water can pass over them and drain away. Sounds sensible to me!

I am installing my newly acquired pair on the loop of the station on my new extension. Looking forward to see how they cope over the coming months!

Here is a link to them on the PIKO web site: http://www.piko.de/pdb_en/index.php?page=detail&grand_id=100&parent_id=4&child_id=2&id=35272

Here is link to pdf of the instruction sheet: http://www.piko-shop.de/is.php?id=13151

Below are some images, showing the three types of reed together and individually. Finally there is an image showing the PIKO reed installed on the layout.

I can confirm that it snaps in very positively. There is a thin tongue on each of the two clip wings that holds the reed firmly between the rail and the sleeper web. It is rock solid when in place. The lid snaps on positively too.

Recommended ++++ Provided that these two do not go horribly wrong in their trails, I will definitely be buying more of these!

James

 

[Madman]

It took me some time to embrace the EPL technology. But when I did I was as happy as a pig in S**T. When I realized that the 17100 had an earlier version, I bought a few that I found on Evilbay. they were new old stock. The design seemed more robust for outdoor use and I liked the way the terminals could be wired without removing the entire unit from the track. The only drawback, for someone with ballasted track was that the track had to be disturbed in order to install the older design. With the newer design all I needed do was dig out a small depression with a screwdriver and push the unit into place. And you're correct about the wings that clip to the track. They can be fragile.

 

[dutchelm]

Do the reeds fit OK on aristocraft track. I find the LGB reeds do not grip very well and work loose causing derailments.

 

[James Day]

Sorry Mike,

I have mostly LGB track with just a couple of TrainLine Points, but no Aristocraft at all, so really can't say.

They fit LGB well, were designed to fit PIKO and I guess they would fit plain Trainline OK too.

James

 

[James Day]

Well, a year has passed since I fitted five of these new PIKO 35272 reeds.

They have been in service in a sheltered and well drained area of my main line and have been trouble free. There are two operating a loop point, one for the dwell timer for the loop, the other two are employed on block signalling.

I thought that they deserve re-visiting as yesterday I opened one up to look inside. It was a dry as a bone, free from any 'dulling' or any unwanted small 'guests'. The cover clips out and back in positively

My only critiscisms of them are:

1/ The covers sit slightly too high, not enough to foul a passing train, but high enough to get well rubbed by my track cleaning block. As a result they no longer look as crisp and pristine as they did a year ago, but this makes no difference to thier functionality.

2/ They are a little too fiddly to use on temporary layouts. They just take too much time and effort to install. For our 'loose-lay on the day' outings I will stick to the old LGB 1700s, which are very acommodating and quick to install.

3/ Be aware that the terminals are actually the opposite way round to the LGB type. So if it is the near terminal on your 1700 or 17100, it will be the far terminal of the 35272! Once you have it clear in your head, you will be fine!

I since have bought more 35272s from Glendale who are still offering these at £10:50 each and keep them in stock. (The going rate elsewhere is around £12.75, which is much the same as LGB 17100s). I have just installed these on other well drained spots on my existing line. I was surprised to find that they clip well to all rails, straight or curved, of any radius. I had previously only used them on straights and R3s.

Due to the design it is very important to note that they do need to be somewhere well drained, as whilst they keep the water out well, they would not do so, if they were ever submerged.

I have some major re-routing to do this coming Autumn/Winter, when the bluk of my line will move off the pathway onto a new purpose built formation. Whilst I will re-use my LGB 17100s, I will only be buying these PIKO ones from now on!

James

 

[LGB-Sid]

Thanks for all the reply's at the moment my initial layout will have a reversing loop on both end's, or that was the idea, beginning to wonder if I should just add 8m of extra straight in the middle of my layout and do away with reversing loops. The middle section is down a narrow raise bed wide enough for two tracks but would reduce the planting behind them which is why I was using reversing loops.



Most images of a reversing loop show the isolaters and 17100 either side of the points in my case the upper left set, can they be moved as shown by the arrow as the upper leg of my loop goes over a bridge, through a tunnel and round a large plant and I wanted to run an extra power feed to the tunnel area so don't really want that bit in the loop.

Does all this go out the window if you go DCC, I know if I keep the layout the same I would still need a reversing loop but does the EPL components work on a DCC layout ?

Ran a train on my new bits of track I installed this weekend and I am beginning to realize a few drawbacks with DC power, Train Lights are pointless unless you run fast, so the idea of adding lights to the coaches probably will be disappointing, smoke generator again a bit pointless unless you run fast enough, my limited sound works OK at slow speeds so that doesn't worry me until I get better sound, I liked the idea of using EPL to add some semi automation but don't want to go down that route if it all changes if I go DCC. as the price of a EPL drive and secondary switch and two 1700s adds up all twice. actually the 8m of extra track costs less ...

 

[James Day]

Sid,

I have nothing to say re DCC, but I am sure many others can with great authority and experience!

In relation to coach lights and smoke units - it depends how they are done. I have diode lighting units in my PM locos and rolling stock that 'charge up' from the track and then remain constantly bright, even after the power has gone off for a few minutes. However if you use bulbs, you are right - faster is brighter.

I have never successfully smoked myself, but if you look for the thread 'Playmobil Ideas' in the 'General, Playmobil' section you will find a very interesting set of diagrams on how to use a low voltage smoke unit that works most of the time, unless the track power is really low.

If what you are planning to do is have a ballon loop where the train goes in one way and then comes out the other to travel back then with DC an EPL unit acting as a reverser is good, especially if coupled with an LGB Reverse loop set, or two! This contains a double isolating rail and a rail containing a diode rectifier. If you reverse the track power using your EPL triggered by a reed as the train runs between the two special rails, the loco continues to move in the required direction without any hesitation. You need to reset the EPL of course, by another reed somewhere else, perhaps in a second baloon loop at the other end?

The length of the track between the special rails must be the length of the whole train, which is particularly importnant if you have stock with any power pick ups! The points on these ballon loops can use the LGB spring mechanisms to keep them facing the right way, the train just trails through the blades as it exists the loops.

However the LGB loop sets are strictly DC only, although I know that similar things are available for use with DCC at least in HO scale, but they don't need a relay like the EPL t make them work!

You may well have been planning something ust like this, so forgive me if am stating something you already know!

James

 

[Deleted member 1986]

Edit:

 

[idlemarvel]

If you use DCC then you solve the problem of dim lights and reverse loops are easy albeit you have to buy a reverse loop module. If the points on the reverse loop are free to move you may find you don't need 17100s. If you are particular about which way locos go round the reversing loops you can have sprung points that reset themselves.

 

[korm kormsen]

our local electronics nerd came up with an idea.
he made me to workbench -test some reeds, that are made for alarm systems. (reacting on closing/opening doors or windows)

we only needed to add a pair of diodes, for the halving of the AC.
on the bench it worked fine. how it will work on the layout, i will know in a year or two...