A DIY point lever

ge_rik

ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
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Having just installed some new sidings on the layout - and being particularly dissatisfied with LGB point levers, I decided to have a go at manufacturing my own. A couple of LGB sleepers, a piece of brass sheet, a piece of brass rod, a short length of Peco rail and €0.04, a few nuts and bolts, a bit of solder and the occasional swear word et voila!
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I appreciate that it's a bit rough and ready at the moment - this is the prototype. Hopefully Mk2 will look a bit prettier.

Rik
 
I’d certainly use that. A great bit of work. It’s much like the Heyn versions? ....but much cheaper. I’m impressed.
 
ge_rik said:
Having just installed some new sidings on the layout - and being particularly dissatisfied with LGB point levers, I decided to have a go at manufacturing my own. A couple of LGB sleepers, a piece of brass sheet, a piece of brass rod, a short length of Peco rail and €0.04, a few nuts and bolts, a bit of solder and the occasional swear word et voila!
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I appreciate that it's a bit rough and ready at the moment - this is the prototype. Hopefully Mk2 will look a bit prettier.

Rik
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Love it Rik; consider this idea nicked and transported to the colonies for the term of its natural life.
Aesthetics are not a consideration on my layout. To quote an old friend he used to run the "RAGS" railway. RAGS= Rough As GutS. Hmm new name for my new railway maybe??

I have another example of a homemade one but at present time it is a box in the back of the shed awaiting transport to the new layout property, if I remember I will post photos.
 
I tried to do something similar on the Ruschbahn but it would never hold the Blade in place sufficiently well to stop track splitting. Perhaps the use of an L with a good tight fit and Lock Nuts was what I needed to do. For the Lever I used some old Flat Bottom Rail that I had kicking around from my 16mm Days, less filling!
 
Martino said:
I’d certainly use that. A great bit of work. It’s much like the Heyn versions? ....but much cheaper. I’m impressed.
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Guilty - but at £20 a throw (accidental pun), I wanted a cheaper alternative.

Rik
 
Over at Fred's IPPW track all the point throws are simple hardware store bolts. They work, and have worked, for many years, and sure as heck cost a lot less than £20 each. I think maybe $2.50? I'm sure Fred can 'throw' some light on it.
 
Version 2
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Happier with the look of this one. I've fitted it to a Piko point which seems to have a shorter throw than the LGB equivalent. The lever now moves far less and so I think I will need to lower the pivot, to shorten the distance between it and the linkage to the tie bar, thereby increasing the amount of throw needed so the weight gives a bit more resistance and holds the blades more tightly against the stock rails. Not tried trailing stock through either yet, so not sure whether I've got the resistance right - maybe some fine tuning needed.

Rik
PS - I've run out of 1c Euro coins so will have to wait until some brass rod arrives before I can continue with development and as PhilP PhilP says, might be even more difficult post Brexit
 
Even better! Well done. Would brass washers be as good as the Eurocents?
 
ge_rik said:
Version 2
PS - I've run out of 1c Euro coins so will have to wait until some brass rod arrives before I can continue with development and as PhilP PhilP says, might be even more difficult post Brexit
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It's bad enough now with the one cent coins - most shops now round up (or down) to eliminate handling - my bank will only accept them on a Tuesday or Thursday! In the end I took them to Tesco's where they have a machine that sorts them and gives you a credit note (to spend in Tesco's of course) - I had 21 euros worth of the things! Next on the hit list of "real" currency will be the 2 cents!

Keep up the good work - I might borrow your ideas for my Trailer layout if you don't mind!
 
I reckon used stick on mag wheel weighs, the lead ones would work. Use a 1/2 inch or 12mm wad punch to cut out discs then they also can be soldered
 
ge_rik said:
Version 2
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Happier with the look of this one. I've fitted it to a Piko point which seems to have a shorter throw than the LGB equivalent. The lever now moves far less and so I think I will need to lower the pivot, to shorten the distance between it and the linkage to the tie bar, thereby increasing the amount of throw needed so the weight gives a bit more resistance and holds the blades more tightly against the stock rails. Not tried trailing stock through either yet, so not sure whether I've got the resistance right - maybe some fine tuning needed.

Rik
PS - I've run out of 1c Euro coins so will have to wait until some brass rod arrives before I can continue with development and as PhilP PhilP says, might be even more difficult post Brexit
Click to expand...
What about 5p coins? Or would they be too small, so very easy to loose such a good way to ensure that you do not. Superbly executed project as aways.
 
Martino said:
Even better! Well done. Would brass washers be as good as the Eurocents?
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V2 has a brass washer and a 1c coin on each side. The washers are a lot easier to solder. I did try two washers each side but it didn't look as good as the disk effect with the coins, but thanks for the suggestion.

Rik
 
dunnyrail said:
What about 5p coins? Or would they be too small, so very easy to loose such a good way to ensure that you do not. Superbly executed project as aways.
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Thanks. They are the same size as the 1c coins, but about 5 times the cost :eek: . I've got some 12mm brass rod on order, so have an alternative albeit a bit more time consuming.

Rik
 
You will lose as much as you use cutting discs from rod, Shirley? :think:
How about 1p coins? OR if you use washers, can the circular indent be painted-in white, to help the crew see how the point is set? :think::think:

Trailing through:
Is there not enough 'give' from the spring-wire from tie-bar to point-blade(s)?? :think:
 
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