What to do with a Newquida loco

[GAP]

I have this Newquida loco that just doesn't fit in with my theme so it's really is quite useless, for a while I have been kicking around an idea of making a Garret style loco out of it.

After a bit of mucking around I have come up with this idea that may just work.
Its a tank engine but Mallet style very loosely based on a Swiss tank Mallet.



It is planned to use 2 Stainz motion works under it (I mean really how many Stainz does a railway need?)





Any thoughts/suggestions/experiences about how to mount the motion works particularly how to allow them to swivel?

 

[ebay mike]

I have this Newquida loco that just doesn't fit in with my theme so it's really is quite useless, for a while I have been kicking around an idea of making a Garret style loco out of it.

After a bit of mucking around I have come up with this idea that may just work.
Its a tank engine but Mallet style very loosely based on a Swiss tank Mallet.

View attachment 264617

It is planned to use 2 Stainz motion works under it (I mean really how many Stainz does a railway need?)

View attachment 264615

View attachment 264616

Any thoughts/suggestions/experiences about how to mount the motion works particularly how to allow them to swivel?

Jon (dunnyrail) did something similar a couple of years ago - I supplied him with a second body which he used to stretch the one he had. From memory i think he used a couple of LGB 2-4-0 chassis. Might be worth messaging him so he can give you a link to the appropriate thread.

 

[a98087]

for the pivot, what I’ve done you is makea u shape bracket, And then glue an m4 bolt with the thread pointing up,

This is for my Garrett loco I still haven't finished, I think that if you were to use Otto chassis it would be easier as there quite a bit lower in height, and means the loco can be kept lower in height

Dan

 

[PhilP]

I think that if you were to use Otto chassis it would be easier as there quite a bit lower in height, and means the loco can be kept lower in height

Would the motion / valve-gear be 'better' from an Otto, as well?

 

[Paradise]

Interesting bash.
This might help to visualise. I'm not too sure if you can get clearance for motor block/s to pivot. It may still be a bit high going by the buffer.
On a true mallet, the rear block would be fixed but for R1's maybe they both need to pivot.

 

[ebay mike]

Harz Mallet Bash from Newquid Body and 2 x 20231.2 Chassis. Battery Powered.

Having bought the two USA Locomotives to be used for the Chassis of this Loco for a silly price in York some time ago, their day has finally come. In the interveneing period I aquired a Newquid 2-6-2 Battery Loco and always looked like a part donor Loco for this project. Here are a couple of...

www.gscalecentral.net

 

[dunnyrail]

Jon (dunnyrail) did something similar a couple of years ago - I supplied him with a second body which he used to stretch the one he had. From memory i think he used a couple of LGB 2-4-0 chassis. Might be worth messaging him so he can give you a link to the appropriate thread.

Struggled to find it but got there in the end, now put the thread on my watch list!

Harz Mallet Bash from Newquid Body and 2 x 20231.2 Chassis. Battery Powered.

Having bought the two USA Locomotives to be used for the Chassis of this Loco for a silly price in York some time ago, their day has finally come. In the interveneing period I aquired a Newquid 2-6-2 Battery Loco and always looked like a part donor Loco for this project. Here are a couple of...

www.gscalecentral.net

oops sorry Mike started looking before reading all the thread!

 

[GAP]

Interesting bash.
This might help to visualise. I'm not too sure if you can get clearance for motor block/s to pivot. It may still be a bit high going by the buffer.
On a true mallet, the rear block would be fixed but for R1's maybe they both need to.

View attachment 264633

Thank You for cropping my picture
That is exactly what I am thinking of doing after trimming the Newquida chassis which has an appointment booked with a Dremel tool for some "minor" trimming.
The "snow plough" in the centre will go as well to give some clearance.
I just have to build pivot points for the motion works.

 

[Paradise]

Perhaps you could paint the sides of the motor blocks red it so will look more the part.

 

[GAP]

I am now looking again at a Garret type of loco, it's procrastination city in the shed at the moment Mallet or Garret that is the question.
Picture of a mock up for a Garret below.



Still trying to find something that will glue to the LGB motor block plastic so I can make a pivot point.
I have tried "Plastic Magic and MEK but to now avail.
I may have to resort to screwing something to the block, but with limited area to drill a hole reinforcing it with a glue would really help.
I really do not want to open up the clam shell blocks to put bolts in if I can really help it.

 

[Paradise]

The Garratt makes for something interesting although perhaps a whimsy for the prototype railway.
I like the idea though.
Keep your inner pivot a little between the drivers and the pilots before and after each cylinder.

 

[ebay mike]

I am now looking again at a Garret type of loco, it's procrastination city in the shed at the moment Mallet or Garret that is the question.
Picture of a mock up for a Garret below.

View attachment 264804

Still trying to find something that will glue to the LGB motor block plastic so I can make a pivot point.
I have tried "Plastic Magic and MEK but to now avail.
I may have to resort to screwing something to the block, but with limited area to drill a hole reinforcing it with a glue would really help.
I really do not want to open up the clam shell blocks to put bolts in if I can really help it.

Don't know if you can get this over there GAP. I still haven't tried it on LGB plastic.

https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/uv-glues.313661/#post-580591

Edit: Just been outside to check the repair I did and it's still holding strong. I've used Gorilla glue in the past WITHOUT success on LGB products. It didn't seem any better than normal and much cheaper superglue.

 

[PhilP]

Is the NQ loco made from Luran? - The plastics LGB use..

Technicoll 8008 is my weapon of choice for this:

Technicoll 8008 Kunststoffkleber

Der ideale Kunststoffkleber mit Dosierspitze

modell-werkstatt.de

PhilP.

 

[dunnyrail]

I think that the Newquid plastic is very different to the LGB stuff and readily stuck to whatever plasticard I was glueing to it when I did my bash. As for glueing to the chassis for pivot points I would prefer to use screws, a quick dismantle if the chassis will show the copious amounts of fresh air where screws can go. I would use self tappers not much thicker that the depth needed.

 

[GAP]

Don't know if you can get this over there GAP. I still haven't tried it on LGB plastic.

https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/uv-glues.313661/#post-580591

Edit: Just been outside to check the repair I did and it's still holding strong. I've used Gorilla glue in the past WITHOUT success on LGB products. It didn't seem any better than normal and much cheaper superglue.

I have used that stuff before so I might try to hunt some up.

 

[GAP]

I think that the Newquid plastic is very different to the LGB stuff and readily stuck to whatever plasticard I was glueing to it when I did my bash. As for glueing to the chassis for pivot points I would prefer to use screws, a quick dismantle if the chassis will show the copious amounts of fresh air where screws can go. I would use self tappers not much thicker that the depth needed.

What I am trying to glue to is the LGB plastic it is probably grease impregnated as well.
I think bolts/screws are going to be the way to go.

 

[GAP]

The Garratt makes for something interesting although perhaps a whimsy for the prototype.
I like the idea though.
Keep your inner pivot a little between the drivers and the pilots before and after each cylinder.

The body will most likely get some modifications, the glaring one being the coal bunker that must go, it makes no sense to have a tender and a bunker. The tanks can stay because I can explain that away as it is in Australia and water is not in abundance in some places.

Could I get a bit more of an explanation on the suggestion in bold, I'm not sure what is meant?

 

[Paradise]

Could I get a bit more of an explanation on the suggestion in bold, I'm not sure what is meant?

I'm fairly certain the designers of your fictitious garratt would have the central boiler section ends bearing down between the drivers for stability. The lines are approximately where the pivots could be. The heavy tanks need to ideally be directly over them too but will need to be moved fore and aft to accommodate these pivot points. The rear tank usually has a hollow for the fireman which is where the rear pivot would be. So the tanks are roughly in the right position as in your stacked photo except the pilots should be out front and rearmost to help carry the load over the overhanging tanks. They will work to pilot each set of engine drivers for running either direction. Only the largest garratts had additional pilots on the inside near the pivots. They would not be as effective if only on the inside. The central boiler section needs a strong beam end to end as there are no longer frames to support it.

Yeah, the bunker must go.

The side tanks should really go too. Ironically leaving a huge missing section in the original Newqida locomotive shell. A lower sitting boiler would be better.
Perhaps you could slice the cab away then remove the side tanks. Rebuild the missing lower part of the boiler and drop it down so it sits on or between the beams. The flattened top of the domes are unnecessary and the chimney needs to be extended but looking much better.


The pivots could be more centered over the drivers. Here the tank/bunker are centered over a single driver. Probably not good for weight distribution which is what Garratts are all about. I think the tank/bunker are a bit long for each driver wheelbase.



Here the pivots are centered over the drivers and the tank/bunker weight more centered over the drivers.
They have a lower cut-out for the boiler beam to swing from the more centered pivots. (bunker in above images needs this too) The pilots have now been removed.

 

[GAP]

Thanks for the design ideas I actually think I have a lot of the materials around to do the bottom one, especial;ly a length of PVC pipe which is exactly the same diameter of the boiler.
Half of the bunker has already been removed as well 2 water hatches that will migrate to a Stainz tank engine bash that is running in parallel with this project.
The pivot connection to the motor blocks is sorted (well sorta) I am going to drill holes straight through the side of the blocks at each end where there is a void and put aluminum brackets over the top which will be held by bolts then pop rivet a deck onto them.
The centre beam is easy to make I'll use some plastic moulding and other bits from the junk/spares bucket.
The battery will now have to go into the tender, it was going into the shell which was the reason for leaving the tanks.

 

[Paradise]

You could also have the cylinders on the inside leaving room for the pilots where they were making the front and rear decks unnecessary. The first Garratt K1 was designed this way although it had no pilot wheels.
Most Garratts afterwards were not built like that though. I think the cylinders and motion directly below the cab access was a issue. Note where the cab steps are.