



Strangely, when driving abroad it doesn't seem quite so bad!How do you think SWMBO felt as a passenger in the left hand seat when we've driven through France ?And that's with my driving
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General consensus for making chassis is to make the rods first and then use them as a master for drilling the chassis. Quartering though an entirely different issue, have to say if I can get them prefer squared end axles with suitable holes in the wheels for those axles. Though I have done a fair bit of quartering like you are to be having to do.What to do on a hot, hot day? How about some 'silver' (aka hard) soldering? After a final fettle with a file, flood with flux, fire up the flame...and flow...
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Further fettling with a file to get everything flush, and...
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Both rods can be mounted on the same crankpins, so it looks like they are pretty much identical. I won't know for certain until the wheels are mounted and quartered, of course, but it doesn't look bad for a bit of bodgery.
I think that's enough alliteration for now...
That method rests well with those of us who are not engineersGeneral consensus for making chassis is to make the rods first and then use them as a master for drilling the chassis. Quartering though an entirely different issue, have to say if I can get them prefer squared end axles with suitable holes in the wheels for those axles. Though I have done a fair bit of quartering like you are to be having to do.



This is the front end of mine on a G3 converted LGB chassis, wirpsh I could remember where the catchers cane from but good solid metal job. Though in my 0 gauge days I soldered a few out of flat strip metal and wire.Just a few images of something I’m building whilst awaiting bits on another project. At the gauge 3 show I picked up a wooden kit for the body of a GER tram loco. Toby for the TtT bods.
Well amongst the loot I came away with from Llangollen was a playmobile 0-4-0T.
This seemed like an ideal opportunity for a quick build through uniting the two purchases.
The playmobile body has been put aside.
I’ve also dug out a Stainz boiler unit from when I built a GER Y4 tank loco.
This with a little modification will go inside the team engine to represent the actual internal gubbins etc.
Anyway some GER buffers are on order from Walsall models, so I guess it won’t be long before the model moves to completion.
This just leaves the cowcatchers to resolve!?!?!View attachment 357413View attachment 357414








45 mm gauge B2B are closer to 40 mm not 44 mm!!Usually, I'm too lazy to make templates, so I often eyeball everything and get results that look OK from a metre away.
But today..... I made an actual template.
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An Evergreen polystyrene offcut, with two holes at an appropriate distance. Into one hole, I inserted a Modellbau Heyn rail fastener. This template is then attached on top of a tie.
This way, I can give the tie a new hole at the desired spot. The same in every tie, thanks to the template.
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Now I have a series of ties with an extra hole:
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If you wondered about the ties, they are from Heyn's Feldbahn line.
I shortened them on the bandsaw, trying to preserve the random look:
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The rail fasteners are inserted:
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And here we have a piece of 32 mm track!
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The reason I'm making 32 mm track is this: I have two wagons with adjustable gauge. Nominally they can be set between 30 mm and 45 mm, but in reality I can't get them any wider than 42 mm, which causes problems on pointwork. (LGB's wheelsets are 44 mm, as are, for instance, Roundhouse's.)
Yeah, I think Jasper was talking flange to flange45 mm gauge B2B are closer to 40 mm not 44 mm!!