peterpavuk
Registered
They are glued with pva and sealed with Halfords matt varnish. Seems not enough though.
What happened at your workbench today?
- Thread starter Henri
- Start date
Matt varnish would probably not be the thing as it is not a glue.I have in other places glued up old concreter chippings to make a wall with a concrete fill to the rear, this has stood the test of time very well. But not sure how it would work with your bricks as there would be no gaps for the cement to get into where as liquid pva painted on the surface would. Perhaps you could still do this to the rear with PVA?
peterpavuk
Registered
problem is bricks are not thermally hardened, they are literally dried clay (maybe with some glue) - so they literally dissolve on water. i am thinking next time to try epoxy for first coat - to totally isolate them from weather.
peterpavuk
Registered
It is actually a entertaining idea to fire them. i have some leftovers and can try to experiment.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Bake 'em in the oven - when the good lady is out
Doh, some smart Alec beat me to it.
I dunno, given the size of the brick, I reckon you could get away with it in a domestic oven - put those in a kiln and they'd disappear in a puff of smoke.
Put it this way: 2 hours at 200 deg C ain't gonna make them any worse
peterpavuk
Registered
i think domestic oven maybe good up to 240C, so i give it a try on small sampleBake 'em in the oven - when the good lady is out
Doh, some smart Alec beat me to it.
I dunno, given the size of the brick, I reckon you could get away with it in a domestic oven - put those in a kiln and they'd disappear in a puff of smoke.
Put it this way: 2 hours at 200 deg C ain't gonna make them any worse
GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
I know of a modeller who uses SBR to hold his ballast in place, lives just down the road (an hour or so drive) and it is out in Queensland Aust summer sun standing up to it OK. UK would get nowhere near the UV levels that we get.
grizzmo
NW Tas
I have been using the Aussie brand (Davco lanko 751) of sbr to fix ballast down too. The track is in full sun, rain and frost. Seems to be standing up well.
Just don't dilute it too much, where I went to 50/50 water mix it didn't last. About 20-25% water seems to work well here, needs a little water to soak into the ballast.
So it might be good for your clay tiles @peterpavuk using undiluted.
Just don't dilute it too much, where I went to 50/50 water mix it didn't last. About 20-25% water seems to work well here, needs a little water to soak into the ballast.
So it might be good for your clay tiles @peterpavuk using undiluted.
SBR is quite sloppy anyway so would not let it down with water myself.
grizzmo
NW Tas
Its very expensive here, so a 20 -25 % watering down is a big cost saving in its own right.
Plus I found it was much easier to apply and the section has lasted just as well watered down at 20-25% to the undiluted the section.
David1226
Registered
David1226
Registered
Latest progress report on the Claptowte Railway build. Baseboard No4 now completed, wired and tested. Shown here connect to board No3 (nearest the camera), to complete the station throat. The main line curves off to the left, starting a 90 degree turn onto board No5. Left to right, the sidings are for the stabling of the line’s Directors’ Private Coach, the stabling of a goods brake van, and on the far right, the longer siding is for the cattle loading dock and the coal staithes.
David
David
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Things are getting a little crowded in the West Well's workshops. A little reapraisal on a conversion, I need to correct a "senior" operator fail. Need a refference point. Got a little blinded by the light, Max (Like the crowbar job PhilP ?)
I like this nifty AI tweeking feature Goggle Pictures now has. Not a single stray wheel or tool to be seen. One for you David 1226 ?
Before
After
I like this nifty AI tweeking feature Goggle Pictures now has. Not a single stray wheel or tool to be seen. One for you David 1226 ?
Before
After
GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
Finished the signal boxes.
Now all that I need to do is get my act together and build the point servo driver boards and connect the wifi to them. In my defence the finishing of the track work did tale precedence so now I can run trains again.
Windows inserts are not clear as I want to have the inside shaded to keep heat out, they are painted silver. My story is that they have reflective film over them to keep the building cooler that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Signal box side
Signal box end
Signal box with electronics box that it will cover.
Now all that I need to do is get my act together and build the point servo driver boards and connect the wifi to them. In my defence the finishing of the track work did tale precedence so now I can run trains again.
Windows inserts are not clear as I want to have the inside shaded to keep heat out, they are painted silver. My story is that they have reflective film over them to keep the building cooler that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Signal box side
Signal box end
Signal box with electronics box that it will cover.
David1226
Registered
On Monday I decided to turn the corner, literally and metaphorically, installing the 90 degree curve from board No 4 onto board No 5. The start of the curve is courtesy of a R3 point, the last part is also a R3 curve . In order to fit the curve on the boards, I had to use one and a half R2 curves in the centre. The R3 point on the far side of board No 5, straight ahead is the entrance to Goudes Sidings, the left curve is the continuation of the main line.
David
David
