What happened at your workbench today?

DafyddElvy

1:22.5 Trams, Early Trams, NG Steam Railways
10 Feb 2021
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On and off topic, I thought the kitchen bunker (counter) could be used as a secondary modelling bench, apparently the kitchen is not there to be used as an extension of my modelling room when domestic management has her back turned, and apparently smelly candle pots with parallel sides aren't there just for me to use as forming tools.

Huh aren't they, just need to remember and remove the wood being formed before someone comes home he he :)

David
 

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dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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Ah - then I think I must have got the Iso pre-spray idea from a 00 youtube video recently. Anyway, your recommended system worked a treat - thank you!
Yes sometimes the 00 people come up with some strange idea’s.
 

LGB-Sid

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Quick test run of William Wallace and it failed o_O it hates running with the connecting rods on to the point where the gearbox jams, even though they are the same as used on the Green engine in every way , and same new piko gearbox etc , it wont run with them, maybe it's because I painted the engine Red :rofl: looks like its a gearbox removal to see if I can see any difference to the Green Grump Bear.

william fail.jpg
 
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DafyddElvy

1:22.5 Trams, Early Trams, NG Steam Railways
10 Feb 2021
342
35
West Lothian
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Scotland
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Quick test run of William Wallace and it failed o_O it hates running with the connecting rods on to the point where the gearbox jams, even though they are the same as used on the Green engine in every way , and same new piko gearbox etc , it wont run with them, maybe it's because I painted the engine Red :rofl: looks like its a gearbox removal to see if I can see any difference to the Green Grump Bear.

View attachment 287951
I don't know anything about the piko gear box but the first thing I would check is to make sure the axle and coupling rod hole centres are the same dimension.

Nice looking couple of locos.

David
 
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Paul M

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25 Oct 2016
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I managed to upgrade my Caradoc RC from 40MHz to 2.4GHz. Even managing to bind the new receiver to my existing transmitter successfully. Now I need far less batteries, and only need to take 1 transmitter to test days.
I also fixed the front light on my Lyn. Obviously it was made to represent the real thing, but it was prone to being knocked and had actually broken off. I also took the opportunity to reposition it slightly to make it project over the smoke box door less. Just need some gloss enamel paint to finish
Does anyone still use 40MHz these days?
 

Neil Robinson

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24 Oct 2009
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Does anyone still use 40MHz these days?
When I built my mostly Roundhouse kit with a Tony Sant (Finescale) boiler live steamer I obtained a second hand 40MHz R/C system that's still in use,
If it ain't broke don't fix it. :)
 

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Paul M

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When I built my mostly Roundhouse kit with a Tony Sant (Finescale) boiler live steamer I obtained a second hand 40MHz R/C system that's still in use,
If it ain't broke don't fix it. :)
I found that it was losing the signal if I was too far away, and tunnels we a bit fraught. And it saves carrying 2 transmitters, the 40MHz one took 8 AA batteries compared to the 2.4GHz one's 4
 

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
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I still use 27MHz, on some 'heritage' models, and (of course) early Playmobil...

But I have also fitted new 2.4Ghz kit, in a failed Playmobil handset. - Which confounds people, when I get 150 feet of range. The aerial of the receiver, is not much above track-level, within a blue express motor-block.

PhilP
 

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
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Quick test run of William Wallace and it failed o_O it hates running with the connecting rods on to the point where the gearbox jams, even though they are the same as used on the Green engine in every way , and same new piko gearbox etc , it wont run with them, maybe it's because I painted the engine Red :rofl: looks like its a gearbox removal to see if I can see any difference to the Green Grump Bear.

View attachment 287951
It may help to elongate the holes in the con rods horizontally - s'okay with a six-coupled engine :nod::nod:


Tolerance is a necessary word ;) Engineers talk in terms of thousands of an inch, builders talk in fractions of a foot :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 

LGB-Sid

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It may help to elongate the holes in the con rods horizontally - s'okay with a six-coupled engine :nod::nod:


Tolerance is a necessary word ;) Engineers talk in terms of thousands of an inch, builders talk in fractions of a foot :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
The end pair are a rattling fit same as the other 0-6-0 I built , The center one has a vertical Slot again same as the other engine , more testing tonight, its happy to run with the main rods on without the center wheels attached to that rod, , once you attach them with out the pistons connected it hates all points and curves and bent the main con rod this time on a corner as the center axle jammed some how
( more than once) I might borrow the running gear of 0-6-0 Grumpy Bear and try it on this one, even though they are in Theory printed from the same files something is different, just no idea what yet..



Driver telling the station Master it's a Lemon this one,k so it won't be taking the last train out tonight :rofl:

bent.jpg
 

jimmielx

45mm gauge track - approx 16mm scale (1:19)
24 Oct 2009
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Maybe some low relief hills against the fence?
Good idea - would have to be very low relief(!) - but it would be good if it wasn’t so flat!
 

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
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The end pair are a rattling fit same as the other 0-6-0 I built , The center one has a vertical Slot again same as the other engine , more testing tonight, its happy to run with the main rods on without the center wheels attached to that rod, , once you attach them with out the pistons connected it hates all points and curves and bent the main con rod this time on a corner as the center axle jammed some how
( more than once) I might borrow the running gear of 0-6-0 Grumpy Bear and try it on this one, even though they are in Theory printed from the same files something is different, just no idea what yet..



Driver telling the station Master it's a Lemon this one,k so it won't be taking the last train out tonight :rofl:

View attachment 287956
Not a case of the driven axles being different distances apart, and one rod on front-to-back, is it? :wondering::nerd:

PhilP
 

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
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The end pair are a rattling fit same as the other 0-6-0 I built , The center one has a vertical Slot again same as the other engine , more testing tonight, its happy to run with the main rods on without the center wheels attached to that rod, , once you attach them with out the pistons connected it hates all points and curves and bent the main con rod this time on a corner as the center axle jammed some how
( more than once) I might borrow the running gear of 0-6-0 Grumpy Bear and try it on this one, even though they are in Theory printed from the same files something is different, just no idea what yet..



Driver telling the station Master it's a Lemon this one,k so it won't be taking the last train out tonight :rofl:

View attachment 287956
So does the centre axle need more side-play?
 

Jasper

Hey, I'm only being creative here.
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J jimmielx
The "Pergola Branch" is very nice. Have you considered a mirror at the end to make it look less interrupted?
 

3 minutes of fame

3d printing, electronics and trams
14 Dec 2020
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Yesterday's mini project was to work up a tipper wagon. Dagnall Dagnall of this parish has created a very nice simple 3D print, but it would take me about 14 hours to print each one and I wanted a nice little rake of them. It only took me about 3 hours to draw this up, cut it and print the wheels and modify the axle boxes to fit the slightly deeper frame and to take a bearing for the 1mm axles. The frame is of very similar dimensions to Dagnall's model, the axle boxes I've stolen with pride, but the tipper body and rockers are all my own work

I've cut some simple solid coupling bars and these link the wagons together using cocktail sticks pushed into the coupling holes. Other couplings would be easy to fit as required. The steel axles run in ball bearings and a brass tube acts as the wheel spacer.

Total time to create all 5 wagons will be less than the time to print 1 of them, which is a win in my book.

Painting them will take a little longer...

tipper wagon 1.jpg
tipper wagon 2.jpg tipper wagon 3.jpg Tipper wagon 4.jpg
 
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LGB-Sid

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Not a case of the driven axles being different distances apart, and one rod on front-to-back, is it? :wondering::nerd:

PhilP
Both rods on the same way round and the axles are I hope the same distance apart in the gearbox. with a rule they are but that's as accurate as I can measure them.
Dare I ask about quartering? I assume you've checked.
Hi yep it looks correct and it also looks the same as my other 0-6-0 Piko gearbox I have.
So does the centre axle need more side-play?
On the First one I built it had a horizontal slot in the center , it ran like a bag of spanners , so I tried the slot vertical and it has run perfect that way since for a year now, so I assumed this one would be the same. The only thing I can't measure with any accuracy is the free play in all directions on the center axle compared to the original that works, to see if it has more or less in-case that causes the problem.

Wish it was easy to get LGB 0-6-0 gearboxes without buying engines just for the box.


Re-printing new wheel pins as I bent one and a new long con rod as the other bent, so has a weekness in it now and will try again with new bits .
 

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
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Or make the centre wheelset flangeless.

In theory ............ if your con rods use the same hole pattern as the Piko ones, then the remaining differences are cosmetic ..... except

Is there a clearance problem at the back end of the slide bar ? I did have that issue on a scratch-built loco :nod::nod:
 
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