Un-sticking glazing glue on LGB coaches

[Tomclarke7802]

Good morning all.
I have recently bit the bullet and have purchased some of the darker red HSB coaches from train line. I have advertised some surplus LGB stock for sale in the classifieds but would like to repaint the small 4 whee brake coaches I already have. I have sourced the correct colour paint and can get transfers from “Troeger”.
When dismantling the coaches I will need to remove the small windows in the concertina doors on the side of the vehicle. Is there a way of releasing the hold of the glue? In the past when attempting to dismantle a similar vehicle I snapped the glazing.
I know some glues soften with white spirit or similar but before trying I am hoping someone will have had previous experience.

Kind regards
Tom

 

[stevedenver]

I have repainted a few various lgb coaches.
heres the good and bad. The old yellow glue may let loose with gentle prising around the window. It dries out. Sometimes it’s tenacious, but eventually can be pulled away. I sand or scrape to remove residue

i have never used any solution other than lighter fluid. its not terribly effective.it is harmless.
Meths , acetone, laquer thinner can haze the plastic…not only window glazing, but meths has dulled the body of a stainz. It can be polished out. Car wax , plastic -olish is what ive used successfully.

heres the bad, some lgb glazing is welded to the body. ie the plastic has been fused. This does not let go. When removing, again gently prise, to assess. If you dont seebglue, likely it is welded. be prepared to scribe with a model knife slipped under the window edge. This is a royal pita. The welds are very tough to cut. Fwiw, if welded the glazing will crack when being pried before the weld gives.

id suggest masking. It can be done. I have used both liquid masking and tape. For the latter, I use a small flat screw driver head to firmly press the edges, then trim with a very sharp model knife. Let the paint dry. For liquid, a small brush, multiple thin coats.

Given the situation you will be in if you wreck the door (made of unobtainium), masking is, imho, the safer choice.

 

[ColinK]

I have repainted a few various lgb coaches.
heres the good and bad. The old yellow glue may let loose with gentle prising around the window. It dries out. Sometimes it’s tenacious, but eventually can be pulled away. I sand or scrape to remove residue

i have never used any solution other than lighter fluid. its not terribly effective.it is harmless.
Meths , acetone, laquer thinner can haze the plastic…not only window glazing, but meths has dulled the body of a stainz. It can be polished out. Car wax , plastic -olish is what ive used successfully.

heres the bad, some lgb glazing is welded to the body. ie the plastic has been fused. This does not let go. When removing, again gently prise, to assess. If you dont seebglue, likely it is welded. be prepared to scribe with a model knife slipped under the window edge. This is a royal pita. The welds are very tough to cut. Fwiw, if welded the glazing will crack when being pried before the weld gives.

id suggest masking. It can be done. I have used both liquid masking and tape. For the latter, I use a small flat screw driver head to firmly press the edges, then trim with a very sharp model knife. Let the paint dry. For liquid, a small brush, multiple thin coats.

Given the situation you will be in if you wreck the door (made of unobtainium), masking is, imho, the safer choice.

I agree with the masking route. I used Maskol on the small windows and cardboard masks (cut from cereal packet) over the bid windows. Worked fine.

 

[Fred2179G]

I would also try masking. My other solution for 'welded' or well-glued windows is an Xacto knife with a chisel blade. I got this for cutting laser-cut styrene parts out of the sheet and it turned out to be great for all sorts of chisel jobs. You can slide it behind the glass and gently tap it to cut through the 'weld'.