Two 'simple' wiring questions...

[ge_rik]

[quote author=Gavin Sowry link=topic=298714.msg313587#msg313587 date=1398546660]
No, that won`t work, unless the track layout forms a complete circuit/oval. By breaking electrical continuity on the `outside rails, you have lost power supply to the track past the breaks at the other end of the loop. As Neil has said, reinforcing my suggestion, the outside rails should remain continuous. Trust me, been there, done that.
[/quote]
This should cover it. Yes, I was assuming it was a continuous circuit.


Rik

 

[Gavin Sowry]

That will work, but to keep it simple, putting the insulated joints on the inside rails will eliminate the need for that extra wire.

 

[ge_rik]

[quote author=Gavin Sowry link=topic=298714.msg313666#msg313666 date=1398633202]
That will work, but to keep it simple, putting the insulated joints on the inside rails will eliminate the need for that extra wire.
[/quote]
Ok - but then you would need to use a DPDT switch (or two separate on/off switches)


Rik

 

[Gavin Sowry]

Ok - but then you would need to use a DPDT switch (or two separate on/off switches)
[attachimg=1]

Rik

Ah, we have a consenus. That is how I explained it (without diagram) in my post. Must figure out how to do drawings like that, too.

 

[Gavin Sowry]

Did we get it all sorted? Up and running? What switch/es did you use in the end?

 

[matthew]

I had updated my railway thread but never thought to put it here too.

Yes i got it all sorted great in the end, certainly took a little bit of thinking to understand what i was doing with the passing loop but i have never been electronically minded  ???

I went with the option of 3 DPDT switches (1 for passing loop, 2 for polarity switching of controllers)

The 2 outer switches are wired into the metal prongs taken from plugs, which then allows the crocodile clips from the controller to easily attach. Then the central switch works the passing loop.





Thanks again everyone!