Turn Radius

[dunnyrail]

Again, thanks for the great info. I feel like I learn so much from every comment! If I had to choose, I'd say this area is primarily storage, but we'd like it to be somewhat pleasing to the eye, as well as functional. I am confusing 4ft radius and diameter. My diagram above was based off a 8' diameter curve. A need to read up on what a "double slip" is. Thanks again!

LGB Electric Double Slip Switch 22.5° | Märklin

Using LGB garden railroad track will give more dynamic to your layout as easy as child’s play. Simply put the track together and you can get started. LGB

www.lgb.com

 

[Greg Elmassian]

of course the best place for the door is in the upper left corner, where no track can go.

A space saver would be a stub switch, 3 way or better.

I managed to get a 5 way, saves a lot of space / longer sidings...

 

[dunnyrail]

of course the best place for the door is in the upper left corner, where no track can go.

A space saver would be a stub switch, 3 way or better.

I managed to get a 5 way, saves a lot of space / longer sidings...

Think you mean bottom right.

One of those Stub Switches need not be rocket science to build, can be done simply with a piece of track on a board with A sub board and a bolt. Cutting the narrow board and a section for it to swivel out of the main board. Track power can be maintained by a simple 2 pin flexing wired plug from the main board. However the real issue is the length of the thing, needs to be the length of the longest loco which can make it tricky to define for a starter to the hobby.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

With an 8' radius, it seems like this is the best I can do:

View attachment 260805

no i mean upper left and fill the rest of the right side with track.... yes I know the door is already on the bottom right, but I was stating where it would be ideal....

Greg

 

[dunnyrail]

no i mean upper left and fill the rest of the right side with track.... yes I know the door is already on the bottom right, but I was stating where it would be ideal....

Greg

Nah that in a 5ft shed would make things almost inaccessible without a duck under or crawling over the boards, plus with points lengths if sidings going the other way would gradually diminish to near nothing. Silly idea.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

you forgot the stub switch and ,you could put runaround switches to make the tracks on the right longer, think outside the box... but as I said I know his door is already in the bottom.... oh and you could make that curve swing up, also a multi track transfer table ...

 

[dunnyrail]

you forgot the stub switch and ,you could put runaround switches to make the tracks on the right longer, think outside the box... but as I said I know his door is already in the bottom.... oh and you could make that curve swing up, also a multi track transfer table ...

Yes there are many other options, not certain that swopping the door location would be viable.

Another option if more storage is required in a the area and still have some sensible access would be to look at double deck. This can be achieved by having 2 tracks at differing levels entering the shed, one line dropping while the other rises outside to make the grade shorter with a sensible grade profile.

 

[SevenOfDiamonds]

Do you like AnyRail?

I just use the free (cut down) version to test out ideas and, for that, it's fine.

Now that I know that the 12 x 5 is the entire "room" (so the track should only occupy around half the width), this would seem to be the optimum solution (unless anyone knows better!) using only standard R3 points and curves . . .



You can add "kick backs" on the two outer sidings, of course.

The sidings could be much longer if it were possible to move the place the track exits to the top wall( rather than the right hand wall).

Food for thought?

All the best

David

 

[dunnyrail]

I just use the free (cut down) version to test out ideas and, for that, it's fine.

Now that I know that the 12 x 5 is the entire "room" (so the track should only occupy around half the width), this would seem to be the optimum solution (unless anyone knows better!) using only standard R3 points and curves . . .

View attachment 261013

You can add "kick backs" on the two outer sidings, of course.

The sidings could be much longer if it were possible to move the place the track exits to the top wall( rather than the right hand wall).

Food for thought?

All the best

David

That looks pretty near perfect to me David. Though with the first point just outside of the shed And using R2 curves as well with the points as soon as the straight is reached some more ‘out of playing’ storage could be created Plus possibly a bit more in the resulting 4 roads. Or perhaps this?

 

[3Bird]

of course the best place for the door is in the upper left corner, where no track can go.

A space saver would be a stub switch, 3 way or better.

I managed to get a 5 way, saves a lot of space / longer sidings...

That is amazing!

 

[Rhinochugger]

Right, now time to re-build our man's shed

 

[3Bird]

Right, now time to re-build our man's shed

It's not a shed, and it's not enclosed yet, so I do have options. This is the back corner of our barn. The footprint and the "people door" are kind of set in stone...unless I make some other major changes.

 

[3Bird]

Now I'm thinking about the possibilities this offers. Human door at bottom left.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

That looks pretty near perfect to me David. Though with the first point just outside of the shed And using R2 curves as well with the points as soon as the straight is reached some more ‘out of playing’ storage could be created Plus possibly a bit more in the resulting 4 roads. Or perhaps this?
View attachment 261042

Now you are talking Jon, now put in 3 way stub switches and get a couple more tracks.

 

[3Bird]

Now you are talking Jon, now put in 3 way stub switches and get a couple more tracks.

I need to look at how to incorporate 3-way stub switches. As a noob, it's all pretty overwhelming...lol. Thanks for your patience and help. Here is one doodle from late last night:



Of course people access is an issue, although I could ditch the turnout and have duck-under access to much of the right side.

 

[PhilP]

Assuming this is to be bench-height?

Would it be possible to fit a 'window' (could be blacked-out / 'glazed' with steel) in the right-hand wall?
Above layout height. outward opening.. Would give access to the 'back' of that area, on the odd occasion it was needed??

 

[phils2um]

Hi 3Bird,

My two cents. You've had some great feedback and run with it! I really like the oblique entrance. It helps make the most of your available space while retaining the LGB R3 minimum radius. The pass-through you've sketched on post 53 I'm guessing will end up being the basis for whatever you choose. However, your last sketch in post 55 looks quite "busy". (Not to mention costly to implement with all those turnouts!) It would make a great little switching layout if that's what you're looking for but not very practical for wagon storage. Maybe it's time to step back and review your objectives?

As an aside, this thread, and seeing what others have done in their sheds has helped me think out my upcoming "shed route". The wagon storage expansion I hope to get constructed this spring/summer.

 

[Gavin Sowry]

I need to look at how to incorporate 3-way stub switches. As a noob, it's all pretty overwhelming...lol. Thanks for your patience and help. Here is one doodle from late last night:

View attachment 261047

Of course people access is an issue, although I could ditch the turnout and have duck-under access to much of the right side.

Allow me, without appearing to be critical, to offer some 'comment'. Firstly, turnouts cost big money, and this layout has too many that are not serving a useful purpose. Can I suggest that first, you ditch the left side one that's not going any where. I'd also biff the one just below it, replace it with a curve section, and then connect that bottom track to the left road...... instantly getting two longer, much more useful storage roads. Now, take away the turnout at the top of the page, and retain the track curving towards the hole in the wall, again, giving a longer track. That siding on the right is not long enough to be of practical use, two options, ditch it all together, or keep one end, and extend the now dead end siding. There, saved you at least 4 turnouts, enough to buy another loco !

 

[dunnyrail]

Allow me, without appearing to be critical, to offer some 'comment'. Firstly, turnouts cost big money, and this layout has too many that are not serving a useful purpose. Can I suggest that first, you ditch the left side one that's not going any where. I'd also biff the one just below it, replace it with a curve section, and then connect that bottom track to the left road...... instantly getting two longer, much more useful storage roads. Now, take away the turnout at the top of the page, and retain the track curving towards the hole in the wall, again, giving a longer track. That siding on the right is not long enough to be of practical use, two options, ditch it all together, or keep one end, and extend the now dead end siding. There, saved you at least 4 turnouts, enough to buy another loco !

Looking at Gav’s notes I was struggling to get it into my head (not enough Ram) so I produced the following showing what I believe to be Gav’s suggestion for point saving plus another of my own to save 2 more. That loop will only store 2 short wagons at best. Just look at the example layout pictures seen at a Show that had just that exact track cnfiguration.

Also going back to the early posts think about your width and access to the Barn, duck unders will be a real pain in the future if adopted. Think track width 4-5 roads.

 

[Sean.]

I like Gavin's thoughts/ideas …