Tried to convert my Stainz to digital

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Mike060976

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Hi Folks,

I tried to convert today my Stainz with a MXION Drive L Decoder, SX6 sound module and speaker which came in a set.
Before i plugged in the Drive L I switched of all the switches on the Stainz board. I have connected everything up and tried to do a test drive just on an analog track which didn’t work. So I removed the Drive L again, switched all back on and tried it again. Loco was still dead. Meanwhile I heard from MXION saying that the analog ability is deactivated. Ok I got my digital controller out, assigned the loco and still nothing. When I try to read out the CV it comes up as 0.
I’m not a computer specialist or an electronic engineer. I was hoping if someone here could point me in the right direction. It’s very frustrating experience because I thought it’s more ore less plug and play and now £200 later I got a Stainz which isn’t working at all…
Anyone got an idea??
 
Is the Stainz switched on in the cab?
Have you accidentally pulled a wire (or the connector) from the motor block?
When you say 'dead', does anything happen? - lights, perhaps?
When you go back to analogue, you are using an analogue controller, I assume?
Do you have another loco you can prove the controller / track is working?

PhilP.
 
That address CV at 0 looks suspect. On my HO decoders they come supplied as CV1 (address) = 3 and I program them to a new address as I want. I think @PhilP is right in going through the tests but I personally would also do a factory reset of the decoder, in HO that is CV8 = 8.
 
Mike060976 said:
Hi Folks,

I tried to convert today my Stainz with a MXION Drive L Decoder, SX6 sound module and speaker which came in a set.
Before i plugged in the Drive L I switched of all the switches on the Stainz board. I have connected everything up and tried to do a test drive just on an analog track which didn’t work. So I removed the Drive L again, switched all back on and tried it again. Loco was still dead. Meanwhile I heard from MXION saying that the analog ability is deactivated. Ok I got my digital controller out, assigned the loco and still nothing. When I try to read out the CV it comes up as 0.
I’m not a computer specialist or an electronic engineer. I was hoping if someone here could point me in the right direction. It’s very frustrating experience because I thought it’s more ore less plug and play and now £200 later I got a Stainz which isn’t working at all…
Anyone got an idea??
Click to expand...
Depending on the model number stainz they most certainly are not plug and play. There's absolutely a learning curve to converting a DC loco to DCC, even a DCC-ready one requires some level of knowledge of the internals and components. I'm not sure there's enough info here to even get started with unless you provide the details of the model and what exactly was done so far. Pics help too.
 
Diesel2000 said:
Depending on the model number stainz they most certainly are not plug and play. There's absolutely a learning curve to converting a DC loco to DCC, even a DCC-ready one requires some level of knowledge of the internals and components. I'm not sure there's enough info here to even get started with unless you provide the details of the model and what exactly was done so far. Pics help too.
Click to expand...
My biggest issue every time with a Stainz is getting the thing apart and putting it back together. There is always a bit that I forget and find that I near have to dismantle to get it sorted. Many other LGB locomotives are easier but not all.
 
dunnyrail said:
My biggest issue every time with a Stainz is getting the thing apart and putting it back together. There is always a bit that I forget and find that I near have to dismantle to get it sorted. Many other LGB locomotives are easier but not all.
Click to expand...
I find the later Stainz eazier than the early clam shell, they were a real pain.
 
Thanks for your replies. I got it finally started. It worked fine and then started this week to stall at some points but mostly recovered. Cleaned up the wheels, brushes etc which helped for a few laps. Also my smoke generator gave up ( ok it might have been to old). Last 2 days a crackling noise started on the speaker before it got quieter and quieter and finally died… I will take it apart and see what I can find. I have also a fresh set of brushes on order but it’s a very very annoying thing with this DCC in general as it seems to be much much more fragile…
 
Yes several times… cleaned the wheels then it was better after a couple of laps then it started again… since the last 2 days the sound was more and more crackling and finally the sound gave up completely… I have ordered a set uf new brushes and pick ups but I’m really unsure about the rest. First the smoke generator went ( perhaps it was to old ), now the sound and this stopping. I’m really frustrated
 
dunnyrail said:
My biggest issue every time with a Stainz is getting the thing apart and putting it back together. There is always a bit that I forget and find that I near have to dismantle to get it sorted. Many other LGB locomotives are easier but not all.
Click to expand...
Have done work on the GE25t before I started with the Stainz which was easy, however I took the Stainz apart and then started assembling it and it was much faster and easier. Yes also forgot the weights
 
Diesel2000 said:
Depending on the model number stainz they most certainly are not plug and play. There's absolutely a learning curve to converting a DC loco to DCC, even a DCC-ready one requires some level of knowledge of the internals and components. I'm not sure there's enough info here to even get started with unless you provide the details of the model and what exactly was done so far. Pics help too.
Click to expand...
It’s the later plug & play version. Managed to get it running but it started to stall and kind of reset itself on 2 points. When I cleaned the wheels it was ok for one or two laps. Sometimes more. Then my during the week my smoke generator got really hot and stopped working. Yesterday it started to have some crackling in the sound and got quieter and quieter and then that also stopped working. Took it apart today and couldn’t see any visible damage… I’m totally frustrated with this digital stuff. It should be plug and play but turned a well working locomotive into a non working paperweight…. I have ordered for next week new brushes and pick up points to see if there is any improvement… I don’t want to blame MXION as I can’t proof the parts are faulty but I have expected everything working out of the box
 
PhilP said:
Is the Stainz switched on in the cab?
Have you accidentally pulled a wire (or the connector) from the motor block?
When you say 'dead', does anything happen? - lights, perhaps?
When you go back to analogue, you are using an analogue controller, I assume?
Do you have another loco you can prove the controller / track is working?

PhilP.
Click to expand...
 
Nothing happened. I tried the switch inside as well… I managed later to get it running but stalls on some of my points. Cleaning the wheels gave some improvement. Smoke generator got really hot this week and stopped working. Yesterday the sound developed a crackling, volume went more and more down and finally stopped today. Now for next week I have ordered a new set of brushes and pick ups and will see if that improves things. I will also temporarily connect the old speaker. If that doesn’t help I will need a repair shop. Do you know one here in UK?
 
Just wondering about the dodgy running, can you prove that the sliding pickups are working ok? If you have a meter you should get continuity between each wheel and the slider on their individual sides. What does not help with Stainz is the traction tyre which effectively takes one wheel out of the equation for pickup. Thus if the slider not picking up juice you could be relying on just 1 wheel.

As for other DCC issues with Stainz, I converted my pals one and that has trashed 2 chips and is thus now a shelf queen. For my part on my line whilst I was still DCC I found for reliable running only large locomotives were of any use, thus Stainz was never used or my beloved LGB Steam Trams. Indoors on my loft line all are ok.

I am fully battery powered in the garden and it is possible to turn Stainz to this dark side, just look at some of GE_riks conversions in the Battery part of the forum. Oh and yes DCC is possible for battery power but not worth it unless you have a big Sound fitted locomotive.
 
dunnyrail said:
Just wondering about the dodgy running, can you prove that the sliding pickups are working ok? If you have a meter you should get continuity between each wheel and the slider on their individual sides. What does not help with Stainz is the traction tyre which effectively takes one wheel out of the equation for pickup. Thus if the slider not picking up juice you could be relying on just 1 wheel.

As for other DCC issues with Stainz, I converted my pals one and that has trashed 2 chips and is thus now a shelf queen. For my part on my line whilst I was still DCC I found for reliable running only large locomotives were of any use, thus Stainz was never used or my beloved LGB Steam Trams. Indoors on my loft line all are ok.

I am fully battery powered in the garden and it is possible to turn Stainz to this dark side, just look at some of GE_riks conversions in the Battery part of the forum. Oh and yes DCC is possible for battery power but not worth it unless you have a big Sound fitted locomotive.
Click to expand...
They look worn to me. I have ordered a set of new ones with wheel brushes. The sound is sorted. It was a faulty speaker. I have also ordered a new smoke generator which is good for 22v ( old one was 18v).
If I have still this running problem I will install a power buffer. The funny thing is that it’s mostly on the same one or 2 turnouts. I bought them second hand but never had a problem with DC. The locomotive drives fine one that turnout which is new.
 
With DCC, unless you fit a power-buffer, you will have problems with short wheelbase models, and the slightest problem on your track.

The electronics needs 5-6V just to wake-up, then the processor in the decoder has to boot, then it has to get (and interpret) instruction from the Central Station. The sound decoder has to wait for SUSI commands, and work out how fast to 'chuff'..

Once you think through what is going on, you realise why it takes longer for a DCC fitted model to recover.

PhilP.
 
PhilP said:
With DCC, unless you fit a power-buffer, you will have problems with short wheelbase models, and the slightest problem on your track.

The electronics needs 5-6V just to wake-up, then the processor in the decoder has to boot, then it has to get (and interpret) instruction from the Central Station. The sound decoder has to wait for SUSI commands, and work out how fast to 'chuff'..

Once you think through what is going on, you realise why it takes longer for a DCC fitted model to recover.

PhilP.
Click to expand...
Thank you Phil for this explanation. It’s all a learning curve… I’m happy that I could sort out the sound problem and could see where the problem lies with the smoke unit. Next weekend I will install the new brushes and see how it goes. If I still got the same I’ll order a power buffer which should solve my problem hopefully for sure
 
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