Track bus wiring for G scale

[mradd]

Planning on putting in some wiring runs from my Control Centre to various tracks, including a run of about 10m.

Wire Size and Feeder Spacing suggests that for G scale I should be looking at 10-8 AWG wire (6-10 mm2). This feels very big to me. For comparison, power outlets in Australia typically use 2.5mm2 wire to carry 240 V / 15A. I know that the G scale wires are handling 8 kHz, but much less power (approx 24V / 6A).

The LGB standard power connector is twin wires at about 20 AWG (0.5mm2).

What is a sensible wire size for a 10m core run?

I use 1.5mm

 

[Andrew_au]

My opinion is that multiple feeds and individual power "districts" are essential. Although the rail we use is a great conductor, often better than the feeders, every rail joint is a major point of resistance unless solid mechanical joiners or soldered jumpers are employed. I've never been proficient at soldering wires to heavy sections such as rail without applying too much heat and melting stuff so I rely on Split-Jaw and Massoth type rail joiners. I also have a continuous power bus with drops about every 3 meters to feed the rails on most of my RR. Belt and suspenders for me!

Rail clamps (I'm using the Massoth ones) have the obvious benefit of ensuring that the brass rails are pressed tight against the brass connector plates.

I've seen people extol the benefits of using graphite paste with fishplates. I understand it helps with conductivity; does it also help prevent oxidation or other degradation of the track-fishplate joins? Is there any benefit to using graphic paste in conjunction with rail clamps? If so, does it go just between the rail-ends or also between the track and clamp?

 

[JimmyB]

Rail clamps (I'm using the Massoth ones) have the obvious benefit of ensuring that the brass rails are pressed tight against the brass connector plates.

I've seen people extol the benefits of using graphite paste with fishplates. I understand it helps with conductivity; does it also help prevent oxidation or other degradation of the track-fishplate joins? Is there any benefit to using graphic paste in conjunction with rail clamps? If so, does it go just between the rail-ends or also between the track and clamp?

Graphite or copper paste will help prevent corrosion generally, and will ensure the screws do not seize, I am battery power, but still use copper on all my joints, (I also use it on the railway )

 

[viaEstrecha]

Rail clamps (I'm using the Massoth ones) have the obvious benefit of ensuring that the brass rails are pressed tight against the brass connector plates.

I've seen people extol the benefits of using graphite paste with fishplates. I understand it helps with conductivity; does it also help prevent oxidation or other degradation of the track-fishplate joins? Is there any benefit to using graphic paste in conjunction with rail clamps? If so, does it go just between the rail-ends or also between the track and clamp?

I squeeze a little paste into every fishplate and clamp screw, when tracklaying, and over the rail end where I've cleaned it prior to joining up.

Having had a couple of point motors where the terminal block screws have corroded seized, I also now use graphite paste when fitting a motor, applying it to the power leads and a little dollop on the top of the screws when done, to keep water from collecting in the two holes. That does seem to work. Also a smear on the metal plates beneath the moving rail of points and on each track power clamp too. Thumbs up for paste - every little helps, I'm sure, and a tube can last for years.

 

[JimmyB]

I squeeze a little paste into every fishplate and clamp screw, when tracklaying, and over the rail end where I've cleaned it prior to joining up.

Having had a couple of point motors where the terminal block screws have corroded seized, I also now use graphite paste when fitting a motor, applying it to the power leads and a little dollop on the top of the screws when done, to keep water from collecting in the two holes. That does seem to work. Also a smear on the metal plates beneath the moving rail of points and on each track power clamp too. Thumbs up for paste - every little helps, I'm sure, and a tube can last for years.

You may find a number of garages have been applying copper paste to batteries and other terminals for years now.

 

[Paul M]

Another good reason, and there are several (see above), for using apparently oversized wire is physical strength. I'm not sure what your set up is or will be, but small cabling and big gardens can lead to problems, the bigger the cable, the less chance of breakages. Plus of course, you'll always have plenty of power capacity for future use.

 

[DavidH]

Has anyone experience of using PV solar cable for bus wiring? It appears to be perfect spec with enhanced UV protection, double insulation and is available in tinned multi core copper at the same (or cheaper even) than standard multi core. Not as cheap as twin and earth, but looks like a much better solution. I was thinking of the 4mm.
Thoughts appreciated
David

 

[dunnyrail]

Has anyone experience of using PV solar cable for bus wiring? It appears to be perfect spec with enhanced UV protection, double insulation and is available in tinned multi core copper at the same (or cheaper even) than standard multi core. Not as cheap as twin and earth, but looks like a much better solution. I was thinking of the 4mm.
Thoughts appreciated
David

Looking at the spec it would appear to be ideal, pre tinned to stop corrosion. But may work out expensive and needs to have double runs for your bus. I would think of running it to locations as a bus then splitting to get sections locally, but depends on your installation needs. I would have thought using the 4mm to track connection may be unsightly so a short section of black wire joined to the bus and run to the track may work better aesthetically.

But that is how I would do it, others will no doubt venomently disagree! I have only been into track powered garden railways since 1998, what would I know?

 

[Paul M]

Has anyone experience of using PV solar cable for bus wiring? It appears to be perfect spec with enhanced UV protection, double insulation and is available in tinned multi core copper at the same (or cheaper even) than standard multi core. Not as cheap as twin and earth, but looks like a much better solution. I was thinking of the 4mm.
Thoughts appreciated
David

If the current rating specifications are the same, there's no reason why you shouldn't try it