Suggestions for Dash 9 sound
- Thread starter DaveB2
- Start date
If you did decide to go with a Massoth S, then it's not just the three "generic" (steam/diesel/electric) sound files that are available - those are just the pre-loaded options, but any of the sounds that are listed for the XLS decoder can also be put on to an S for you by a dealer.... they list a GP9, an SD70, an ALCO DL535 and an F7, if any of those would be close enough...?
Jon.
Jon.
ESU Loksound XL V4 (or an older V3.5 if you can find a used one) are great sound decoders and have the sound file available for the Dash 9.
IMHO their sound files are more extensive are better quality than Massoth ones (they have more options and individual function sounds).
Locksound XL V3.5 sound files:
http://www.esu.eu/en/downloads/sounds/generation-3/loksound-xl-v35/us-sounds/
Loksound XL V4.0 sound files:
http://projects.esu.eu/projectoverviews/4?page=2&count=10&order=date&type=all&cat=4
I have used both makes of decoder for US diesels and steam locos and the ESU ones definitely have more 'presence' and more options.
IMHO their sound files are more extensive are better quality than Massoth ones (they have more options and individual function sounds).
Locksound XL V3.5 sound files:
http://www.esu.eu/en/downloads/sounds/generation-3/loksound-xl-v35/us-sounds/
Loksound XL V4.0 sound files:
http://projects.esu.eu/projectoverviews/4?page=2&count=10&order=date&type=all&cat=4
I have used both makes of decoder for US diesels and steam locos and the ESU ones definitely have more 'presence' and more options.
Another vote in favour of ESU XL LokSound decoders.
I particularly like their automatic motor calibration facility, steam sound syncronisation without resort to sensors and range of additional sounds. For example when you press the button to switch off the injector the sound continues for a short while to give the prototypical clunk and dribble from the overflow.
The're also pretty good on analogue.
In my very limited experience a downside is that the vast number of feature combinations means that you need their specific gizmo to set them up to full advantage.
There's not one company that does not require a unique piece of hardware to download/install sound files.
Greg
Greg
GP9 = second generation diesel unit - wrong motive power unit.
SD-70 = might be good enough for somebody who has not been near a Dash9 for real.
ALCO DL535 = the 3ft NG White Pass loco that is not the GM shovel-nose - as modelled approximately by LGB.
F7 = second generation diesel loco that sounds like a few Model T Fords starting up in a tin barn.
If you have to, go for the SD-70 sound.
tac
I have purchased a LokSound XL V4.0 with the GE 16cyl 7FDL Modern (FT) sound file loaded by the supplier. I have installed it in the Aristocraft Dash 9 (recently repaired, thanks again guys) loco and using JMRI and a SPROG3 I have tried without success to set it up. I have several problems and they seem to be getting worse the more I try to correct the problems.
1) The loco jerks around like a kangaroo on starting and stopping, the auto calibration does not work, it moves quickly then sits there clunking until I stop it by removing the power.
2) The loco has no top speed, as the throttle is increased it slows down to a stop.
3) The loco is now constantly sounding the bell F1 and the horn F2.
4) I cannot write to CV6, it has 0 in it and will not change?
Does anyone have a similar loco with an ESU Loksound XL? and could possibly let me know the settings? I did change CV 56 to no load compensation and it did move smoothly for a while? I have checked my signals with my oscilloscope and all signals are fine. I also use the ROCO Multimause fed into a MERG 10A booster and it responds "better" but still far from satisfactory.
I have tried a master reset setting CV8 to 8 but it seems to make no difference. Any help would be nice as I am loosing the will at the moment. John
1) The loco jerks around like a kangaroo on starting and stopping, the auto calibration does not work, it moves quickly then sits there clunking until I stop it by removing the power.
2) The loco has no top speed, as the throttle is increased it slows down to a stop.
3) The loco is now constantly sounding the bell F1 and the horn F2.
4) I cannot write to CV6, it has 0 in it and will not change?
Does anyone have a similar loco with an ESU Loksound XL? and could possibly let me know the settings? I did change CV 56 to no load compensation and it did move smoothly for a while? I have checked my signals with my oscilloscope and all signals are fine. I also use the ROCO Multimause fed into a MERG 10A booster and it responds "better" but still far from satisfactory.
I have tried a master reset setting CV8 to 8 but it seems to make no difference. Any help would be nice as I am loosing the will at the moment. John
I'll assume you are running on a DCC system.
I'll also assume you have enough amps to run.
So, you can't program the loco? Or just CV6?
Turn off BEMF... did you try running the loco on DC? How many amps did it draw?
It sounds like you have multiple issues.
Greg
I'll also assume you have enough amps to run.
So, you can't program the loco? Or just CV6?
Turn off BEMF... did you try running the loco on DC? How many amps did it draw?
It sounds like you have multiple issues.
Greg
Sounds like the CV6 (mid voltage) is set to more than the top voltage CV5...
I use a Sprog III and it can sometimes not write to certain CVs on some manufacturers decoders. I also have the ESU Loksound programmer which eleviates any issue with Loksound decoders.
This vid, although not concerning ESU decoders or Sprog, does illustrate the CV6 issues:
I use a Sprog III and it can sometimes not write to certain CVs on some manufacturers decoders. I also have the ESU Loksound programmer which eleviates any issue with Loksound decoders.
This vid, although not concerning ESU decoders or Sprog, does illustrate the CV6 issues:
Very interesting, have never seen that happen (never programmed CV6 above CV5), that's crazy, but it makes sense if the firmware was simple-minded.
It looks like that was an NCE decoder, very early design.
I see that in an NCE LS decoder, CV6=0 is the same as CV6=128, and the CV5 default is 255....
You would think a smart way to design the decoder is if you set CV6=0 then CV6 = CV2 + CV5 divided by 2. I'm pretty sure I have decoders that do this.
Thanks for the tip!
Greg
It looks like that was an NCE decoder, very early design.
I see that in an NCE LS decoder, CV6=0 is the same as CV6=128, and the CV5 default is 255....
You would think a smart way to design the decoder is if you set CV6=0 then CV6 = CV2 + CV5 divided by 2. I'm pretty sure I have decoders that do this.
Thanks for the tip!
Greg
Back to the issue at hand.
Greg
- I'd verify my power and system working well,
- I'd use a short programming track and not program on the main, use service mode
- make sure you can read and write the basic CV's
- if you have programming track issues, you may have to turn off some lights on the unit, some locos connect lights to the rails, not the decoder outputs
- do a full reset and verify you reset it... for example set a short address (not 3!), then reset and see if it changes back to 3
- The loco should run now with all the settings at default...
Greg
I concur..
Always test on DC before you start.. Get an idea of current-draw (if nothing else).
If there are running problems with the loco, sort them first.
Little, by little.. Track and motor first.. Get that running.
Lights next..
Then sound, and getting things in sync. (if needed).
Always test on DC before you start.. Get an idea of current-draw (if nothing else).
If there are running problems with the loco, sort them first.
Little, by little.. Track and motor first.. Get that running.
Lights next..
Then sound, and getting things in sync. (if needed).