'Sticky' 0-6-0 motor-block

PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
TRADER
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Have a motor-block (was 3-wire, but not clam-shell) from a Corpet which is sticking at low speed. - So much so it stalls, or runs in short 'hops'..

It would appear the motor etc. is fine. I have stripped it right down to just (in effect) motor and axle at each end, by removing the rods. - This is fine.

Once I drop the rods on, so adding the middle axle to the mix, then the problem re-appears. Centre axle is very 'sloppy' in all directions, so am wondering if I have got the springy bus-bars upside down, or something?

Been trying to find a photo on the forum of the innards of one of these to make sure I have it right. - No luck so far.

Any ideas folks?
TIA,
PhilP.
 
Quartering? Can you run it with rods but without the middle wheelset?

If the outside wheelsets are out of quarter with respect to each other, the rods will bind when there's a middle wheelset involved. Only needs to be one gear tooth out of phase to cause problems.
 
Could be Nick.. I did replace one axle with a cam..

Too late now to fiddle again, so will try without the middle axle, but with rods, tomorrow.

I *suppose* I might be slightly out on the cam-axle I pressed the wheels back onto?? - I have tried one tooth each way, both ends.
Thanks,
PhilP.
 
We had major problems with some of the 2-4-2 Electrics Locomotives going out of synch on their Gears.

Solution is to match the Spokes by eye as close as you can. It is generally apparent when one is out, the Balance Weights can help a bit too. Just one Grove out will cause Lumpy Running. Hope this helps.
JonD
 
sounds like the quartering is out..
 
The terminology 'quartering' is used for more than one thing.Technically it is the relationship of one wheel to the other on an axle. The cranks are usually at 90 degree to each other. However, the term is also used (perhaps wrongly) to describe the position of axles relative to each other. The issue you may have is that the axles are out by one cog relative to each other. You may or may not have a problem where you refitted the wheels to the axle but to adjust the axles relative to each other is as easy as releasing the base plate and move one axle one cog against its adjoining gear or worm. If you look carefully at the position of the crank pins you can usually see whats out.
 
What?, along with hanging and drawing? :o
 
Sorted!!! :D :D :D :D :D :D

I was slightly 'off' when I pressed the wheels onto the cam-axle, it would appear..

Overkill to spot it:
Used Fathers ML7, a 4-jaw chuck, a short magnetic spirit level, and a couple of lengths of insulating tape!! ;) :D ;D ;D
Tape across the wheels, inline with the webs of the counterweights, to give a nice clear datum-line.
One wheel held in chuck, adjusted so spirit level across two jaws horizontal, and visually parallel to tape..
Turn 90 degrees, check with level and check tape on opposite wheel now parallel. - Ever so slightly 'off', but enough to jam the motion.

Many thanks to all who contributed.
PhilP.
 
Result Phil. A little tip when taking wheels of the Axles. A small Mark made with a Razor Saw on both the Wheel and Axle is a great help when putting them back together. It appears that the quartering was indeed out.
JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
Result Phil. A little tip when taking wheels of the Axles. A small Mark made with a Razor Saw on both the Wheel and Axle is a great help when putting them back together. It appears that the quartering was indeed out.
JonD
Click to expand...
Good idea.. Except, in this case, the axle was replaced with a 'cam axle', so a different lump of metal..
 
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