SOLDERING AID

Gizzy

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Good idea Ross....
 

DoctorM

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And your third hand holds the solder, right?
 

stockers

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DoctorM said:
And your third hand holds the solder, right?

'Tin' the wire and led lead and then you dont need to hold the solder.
 

Madman

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Would pepermint chewing gum qualify as blue tack :rofl: That is after softening in the usual manner :happy:
 

stockers

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Perfect. :happy:
 

dragon

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Madman said:
Would pepermint chewing gum qualify as blue tack :rofl: That is after softening in the usual manner :happy:

YUK!
 

KeithT

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Fine but how do I not 'cook' the LED/transistor?
Either I do that or end up with a cold soldered joint.
 

stockers

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A bigger soldering iron for a shorter time period. You need to get heat very quickly into where you want it, and then stop. 'Tinning' helps for a quick job.
 

KeithT

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stockers said:
A bigger soldering iron for a shorter time period. You need to get heat very quickly into where you want it, and then stop. 'Tinning' helps for a quick job.

It also helps not to be kack-handed.:crying:
 

CoggesRailway

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soldering is witchcraft. thats my excuse anyway.
 

ntpntpntp

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As Alan says, use the right sized soldering iron - not too large or too small, my medium size 15 watt does the job fine. Tin the wire and the LED leads first then bring the two pieces together and heat both until the solder melts - half a second to one second should be plenty for small components like this.

If you're particularly worried about too much heat getting to the LED, use a heat-shunt at the base of the lead - something like a bulldog clip can work quite well.
 

Gizzy

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When I teach soldering, I always tell my students to count to 3.

If the solder hasn't melted for a good joint during that time, then remove the iron bit from the work, otherwise you could damage the component.

As others have commented, tinning the iron, the component leads and the tag or pcb 'land' will help....
 

KeithT

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Gizzy said:
When I teach soldering, I always tell my students to count to 3.

If the solder hasn't melted for a good joint during that time, then remove the iron bit from the work, otherwise you could damage the component.

As others have commented, tinning the iron, the component leads and the tag or pcb 'land' will help....

All of what has been said is excellent, appreciated advice and I have followed all of it in the past.
I even have an adjustable heat iron!
Apart from LEDs and transistors I cope.
My best results have been with a small butane gas iron but the last time I needed it it was out of gas.
Result? Cooked LED.
 

KeithT

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ROSS said:
I managed a good one soldering today. Picked up the wrong tranny and wondered after soldering why the flasher would not work! Win some..loose some! More haste..less speed.:rofl:

I can do that for you! :rofl:
 

Neil Robinson

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KeithT said:
ROSS said:
I managed a good one soldering today. Picked up the wrong tranny and wondered after soldering why the flasher would not work! Win some..loose some! More haste..less speed.:rofl:

I can do that for you! :rofl:

What, pick up the wrong tranny? You'll be thinking of contributing to an LGB forum soon! :rofl:
 

Gizzy

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More top tips for soldering.

Make sure the component is clean. If you don't use a resin cored fluxed solder, then apply the appropriate flux (dependant on the metal you are soldering; Carrs do a range available at your model shop).

Put the flat surface of the bit of your solder iron under your component lead, and apply the solder (wire) from above.

Heat rises, and the solder flows better if aided by gravity.

Might be obvious to most, but you'd be surprised as to what I've seen....
 

KeithT

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Neil Robinson said:
KeithT said:
ROSS said:
I managed a good one soldering today. Picked up the wrong tranny and wondered after soldering why the flasher would not work! Win some..loose some! More haste..less speed.:rofl:

I can do that for you! :rofl:

What, pick up the wrong tranny? You'll be thinking of contributing to an LGB forum soon! :rofl:
Perish the thought! :clap:
 

nicebutdim

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I got a soldering station from Maplin a while ago, cost about £70, but in my eyes worth every penny. It has adjustable temp and easy to change tips, coupled with the power to solder to brass rail. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module?ModuleNo=218050 It takes about 15 secs to reach temp, which is great when you're busy or soldering bits with time gaps inbetween, allowing you to switch it off and save some electric.
I have a set of 'helping hands', which make life easier, but the blue tack idea sounds great!
 

KeithT

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Cheeky Monkey said:
I had an adjustable soldering iron from Maplins it was good but the I bought a butane one threw the adjustable away as I never used it again

Gas its the future

I did it t'other way round &: but I will revert to the gas one. It is small but perfectly formed (Remind you of someone?)
Reminder to self - get a refill canister PDQ.