Roundhouse Leek & Manifold 2-6-4

G-force1

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Roundhouse L&M 2-6-4

The Roundhouse Leek and Manifold 2-6-4 model can be supplied in various liveries as is their usual manner. This one was supplied in L&M LR. original brown, and has been lined out to the original pattern by Lightlines. The finish is perhaps a little too shiny for the purist, but could easily be dulled with a light coat of matt/eggshell lacquer. This is my first Roundhouse loco, probably not my last. It is supplied with both sets of name plates and numbers, but they are completely painted.

The first run proved that it was able to negotiate 4ft radius curves (my ruling radius on 45mm G.) quite adequately running `light engine`. Roundhouse claim it will manage down to 3ft, but more of that later. It ran well straight from the box, with no apparent tight spots or fussiness. The burner was able to be turned right back, once pressure was raised, until it was virtually silent; a very welcome point after several other locos with burners that only roar, or go out. The gas tank also seems a good size though I did not apply any timed test, it must have run for more than 15 mins during my test. A small criticism here would be that I could not fill the tank with the dummy coal fitted, as the tank valve is at a slight angle, not aligning correctly with the hole, and will not seal to the filling tube. The dummy coal is a good fit in the bunker and is not that easy to remove. I have yet to investigate this further. The boiler is quite large and appears to holds a fair amount of water, good for long runs. W.P. is 40 p.s.i. and whilst less than I am used to, seems adequate.

My railway is a balloon loop, with the necessity to `run round` each lap, at the terminus, this means that I need quick uncoupling, and preferably automatic, re-coupling. To that end I prefer Accucraft standard chopper couplings, handy as I have a lot of Accucraft stock. I looked at fitting these and found that it would be a simple job to remove the R/H ones and replace with Accu. Just by the simple expedient of filing a small flat down the length of a few 8BA bolts so they would pass through the drag beam without the need for further modification. This modification was then tested with only a W&L brake van behind. It successfully negotiated a couple of sets of points on exiting the terminus, but came to grief on the first full 4ft rad reverse curve. On checking, it could be seen that the coupling buffing plate actually swung over and clear of the outside rail, a situation that would be difficult for any sort of coupling, other than a longish chain. The original R/H coupling is pivoted under the rear of the loco and probably doesn`t suffer in the same way, and it is designed to use chain, which for the reasons explained I prefer not to use. The loco was then turned round and tried bunker first and the derailment problem doesn`t occur (at 4ft rad). So this is all down to the large rear overhang of the prototype. I thought about fixing the Accu coupling to the R/H one but that would leave a very large gap between loco and stock, so my current solution is some 2.4mm brass wire bent into a “U” shape with the ends threaded 8 B.A. and filed with a flat as before, and fitted to the full width of the original slot. There is another option for the very skilled and that would be to make up a coupling with similar fitment to the R/H one, but with their choice of coupling added. That would allow roughly the same swing as the R/H one. I estimate that my original mod would be fine for curves of 4ft 6in. and above.

Later test.

The early runs had shown up several parts of my track that needed attention, so these were attended to before a repeat performance was given. The loco was then given a train of 10 axles (5 waggons) and coped well with the load and particularly up the heavy grade (15m of 1:40), could be heard to chuff quite clearly. Chuffers are available for it, but my thoughts are that it would very much down to personnal choice and perhaps the lay of the track whether one was needed. It kept pressure well on a very low flame, though slightly higher than the previous test, due to the extra weight. Again no accurate timing was undertaken but water and gas seemed to give out at about the same time (at least 20 mins). As yet it hasn`t been tried for maximum pulling ability, but 20 axles, maybe a few more, seems likely on my track.

Conclusion

A large impressive looking loco, which is a fair representation of the prototype, though not seemingly of any particular period in their service, having the later bunker extension, and other minor differences from different periods. It runs well straight from the box, and is unfussy in service, easily controllable, with a good length of run. The biggest thing to be aware of is the very large swing of the rear end of the chassis due to the wheel arrangement. If your railway can cope with that couplings and clearance wise, then it is a good buy. The other addition I have made is a wooden storage box.

EarleCalthorpe (9) (1077 x 808).jpg

1st modified rear coupling.

DSCN5937 (1077 x 808).jpg

2nd modified rear coupling.

DSCN5936 (1077 x 808).jpg

Modified front coupling.
 
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G-force1

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I have now had time to fiddle a little more and it seems the problem with the gas fill was down to the dummy-coal not seating all the way down. It has now dropped another 5mm, roughly, and leak free filling is achievable.
 

Mr dc rail

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Hi do you think this loco will handle a 900mm radius ?
 

G-force1

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900mm is as near as damn it 3ft (914.4mm). The loco should get round Ok but if there is any difficulty it will likely be with the rear coupling. I think I've explained my situation with that, Ok above.
 

daveyb

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these are lovely locos,,, saw one running a few months ago and it was very nice
 

Mr dc rail

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Thanks for your response at least you have given some options perhaps one along the lines of the original coupling that pivots with a loop like your modification will give a tighter radus. I will let you know if I decide to purchase
I
 

G-force1

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I have recently come up with another idea for the rear coupling, I just haven't had time to implement or develop it yet. It involves modifying the original R/H version.
 

David1226

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Not enough piccies of the whole loco....we like piccies...........

David
 

Mr dc rail

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I have a roundhouse Alco and do not like using the chain either and keen to develop something to be compatable with the accucraft chopper type so if the fixing are silimar then the solution may be suitable for both. On to the drawing board!
 

Trainman 864

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My solution for my Leek and Manifold was to .....

- Remove the couplings.
- Cut both front and rear Roundhouse couplings in half.
- Overlap the two halves by 7mm.
- Drill the overlaps for two 2mm bolts each.
- Bolt a square Accucraft chopper coupling to the flat face of the rear Roundhouse coupling and re-install.
- Re-install front coupling with a three link chain to couple up to Roundhouse couplings if required.

This solution does mean that .....

- A slightly bigger track radius is required but I've never had a problem on the 2M minimum radius tracks I run on.
- Pulling stock with link couplings means running in reverse. However, I understand the original railway had no provision to turn the locos (the headlamp was never used as it was just a throw-over from the designers extensive experience on Indian railways) and they were provided with similar glazed cab windows to enable equally good vision when running in either direction.

BTW - Another worthwhile mod. is to get rid of those awfull cheese head screws that Roundhouse use to fix their buffer beam overlays and replace them with 3mm button head socket screws.

Just IMHO of course! .... :)
 
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G-force1

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EarleCalthorpe (1).jpg

Is this more what you had in mind David?
 

G-force1

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My solution for my Leek and Manifold was to .....

BTW - Another worthwhile mod. is to get rid of those awfull cheese head screws that Roundhouse use to fix their buffer beam overlays and replace them with 3mm button head socket screws.

Just IMHO of course! .... :)

Hmm, not sure I think socket heads are much better, perhaps hex, or small domes and fill the slot. The cheese-heads are very cheesy. :D
 

pugwash

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However, I understand the original railway had no provision to turn the locos
But they still managed it, kind of. E.R. Calthrop was returned from Crewe after some work and put on the tracks the 'wrong way round'.
I bet someone caught it for that :worried:
 

Mr dc rail

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yes that coupling looks a lot better slightly longer and more "swing" looks worthwhile pursuing.
 

Trainman 864

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yes that coupling looks a lot better slightly longer and more "swing" looks worthwhile pursuing.

If you're refering to the coupling in the picture (post #11) above - that is in fact the standard coupling with standard swing.

I think G-force was responding to David's request (post #8) for a "piccie" of the whole loco .... :)
 
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G-force1

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I was indeed, and it isn't the front coupling that has the problem, nor the standard coupling, only my requirement to use something compatible with the Accucraft choppers.
 

Mr dc rail

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Sorry try to keep up next time but with only having photos to look at its difficult to tell the dimensions just looked longer. I think something could be designed to fit the chopper type trying to make it look right will be the challenge.
 

G-force1

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Yesterday, around eighteen months after purchase but only it's third steaming I failed to get the pressure gauge to read more than 30psi. even after adjusting the safety valve down (with R/H own special tool).

Today I removed the P/gauge and cleared out the pigtail it had two plugs of water in, one at the gauge end and the other in the droop, i.e.nothing that you would consider a problem, certainly not to affect the reading. I wasn't able to test the gauge properly as my test equipment is a tad over-scale (7 1/4"). I did operate the gauge fully, several times, with some careful usage of compressed air and it seemed to be Ok. As I had attempted to re-set the safety valve yesterday I fitted a p/gauge from another loco and fired up. Pressure rose as required and I reset the safety to that gauge, 40psi. I refitted it's own gauge and fired it again and the pressure rose as expected but the valve blew at just over 35psi (one should expect some variation across old and new gauges especially this small). My current thought is to replace both S/V and P/G, I'm not in the mood to trust either. Unfortunately it won't be under warrantee.
 

Trainman 864

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As you say, you're comparing two service gauges against each other and a difference of 5 psi means that in the best case scenario one could be reading 2 1/2 psi high and the other equally low, which is about a good as you can reasonably expect on those gauges. You really need to check them against a dead weight tester - your local club should have one - and then fit the most accurate one. Then - with a knowlege of the error - you can adjust the safety valve accordingly on the steam test.

The only other thing you need to do is check the repeatability of both the PG (on the dead weight tester) and the SV (on the steam test) to be sure the bourdon tube and the spring respectively are not getting tired. If they are OK - I see absolutely no need to replace anything.
 

G-force1

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As you say, you're comparing two service gauges against each other and a difference of 5 psi means that in the best case scenario one could be reading 2 1/2 psi high and the other equally low, which is about a good as you can reasonably expect on those gauges. You really need to check them against a dead weight tester - your local club should have one - and then fit the most accurate one. Then - with a knowlege of the error - you can adjust the safety valve accordingly on the steam test.

The only other thing you need to do is check the repeatability of both the PG (on the dead weight tester) and the SV (on the steam test) to be sure the bourdon tube and the spring respectively are not getting tired. If they are OK - I see absolutely no need to replace anything.


You are absolutely right, but I do have my own test gear, just noting on it that is that small. It'll probably mean the thick end of a day in the w/shop making fittings to update my kit, a job that is of course in the pipeline, but just not this end of it.

As for the gauges, once I can prove them, I am well able to reset them, I used to do them on an almost daily basis, just a tad larger dia. (about 3"). There still remains the mystery of why they refused to cooperate on Sunday, hence it might be saner (almost cheaper?) just to replace them.