Rocco Z21

alex.j.tame

alex.j.tame

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hi guys

Just purchased a Rocco Z21 and now just waiting for decoder to arrive to convert my Piko 0-6-0. So over the coming weeks weeks I am about to learn all about DCC programming
, what switches to buys to control my points, wiring. Am actually really excited about it all. Will still need to finish off my run, but will set up a test section and turnout to test it all.

So any tips that anyone has has will be appreciated and will document as best as possible so that I can feed back any tips .

Have a good Easter everyone

Alexn
 
It's a good unit although the android app isn't as reliable as the iPhone version, it has a few occasional glitches.
You can also add more power using the 8 amp boosters from Uhlenbrock and the details are in another thread somewhere.
Knock a 'c' out and search for Roco Z21
 
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Thanks Paul,

Have iPad for this! Recollection is that you have had some experience with Z21. Will look for all the threads! So looking forward to playing with it. Really must get the rest of my track laid! I can add an extra power later when finances allow for additional locos

Missed the postman yesterday for my decoder delivery. Will now have visit the local sorting office tomorrow to collect.

Have a question regarding points control via Z21, I have to assume I shall require a accessory switch decoder?

Will have some fun dismantling my loco to fit the decoder, have a piece of track and point ready to test and understand.
 
Yes you'll need an accessory decoder designed with the right output for the type of point motor. Setting up the accessories in the track control centre is easy and you can swap the position of the symbol is working in reverse to the actual point by changing the 1 and 0 over in the configuration.
A&H models do a load of guide videos that are useful in learning about various bits.
http://www.aandhmodels.co.uk/roco-z21-1083-c.asp
 
What brand/type of point motors are you using Alex? As Paul says you need to get point/accessory decoders which can drive your type of point motor.

In the small scales 3 wire solenoid point motors are common, but In G scale point motors such as LGB & Piko are 2 wire designs (reversible DC).

For my LGB point motors I use NCE SwitchKat decoders as they're a bit cheaper than LGB/Massoth decoders if you just want to operate a single point. The SwitchKats were originally designed for Kato point motors (also a 2 wire DC design). They come as a bare PCB and need encapsulating in a project box for outdoor use.
 
Hi ntpntpntp

My points, about 12, are LGB. But also looking to put signals at most of these. Another question on this do I feed power from the main bus or have as a separate feed?

Thanks guys
 
With that many points and signals you'll probably want to use multi-output decoders to save money where you have a group in close proximity.

The simple option is to connect the decoders to the track. However, I used a separate pair of wires to feed the DCC signal to the decoders, so that I could switch the track power to analogue DC (or even totally off) yet still be able to control the points. 99% of the time the decoder bus remained connected in parallel with the track feed at the command station.

(ps, I'm writing in past tense as my line has been taken up for the time being, everything stored away).
 
What an idiot. I only got the wrong model decoder so have contact online store to try and arrange swap. Let's hope they are in a good mood! So will now have to wait probably till Tuesday for a response doh. So will now have to find alternate project to work on the rest of weekend.
 
Have been looking at the PIKO 35013 decoder as this appears to be more weather proof than others. Comments?
 
The 35013 sounds like the right sort of thing for a 4 channel decoder that should be reasonably weatherproof.

Price varies a bit so shop around - I've seen anything from £55 to £71 in just a quick google.
 
There's weatherproof and waterproof. I don't think I would want it exposed to the elements all year round. Because you have to insert many wires (at least 10) there is bound to be some moisture intake. If you can put it it in some lineside building or some IP55 project box that will help. The Massoth one channel decoder is more weatherproof as it is prewired and the electronics are embedded in silicon gel or similar so that is better at being exposed to the elements IMO (at least I hope so!).
 
To add to the above I looked at the manual for the 35016 and it says:
"• Please maintain your Switch Decoder, its power supply units, control panels, etc.,
in an environment that is protected as well as possible from weather influences.
The weather seals are only designed to provide protection from mild, short-term
incursion of moisture from above.
• Do not leave the device unprotected from the elements outdoors. This could cause
damage and even serious safety hazards."
 
If you are worried about it being waterproof or just don't want wiring everywhere you could try one of these accessory decoders. They're not the cheapest but they are very good when used outdoors.
 
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My LGB units (for 4) live outside under a small model hut. 10 years up next year.
They are lifted up about one inch by a block of wood which also locates the hut.
 
Must admit I had the same thoughts/concerns about the seals on the 35013 when I looked up some images, there is opportunity for water to enter via the cable port.

I mentioned earlier that I used NCE SwitchKats encapsulated in project boxes, like this:
DSCN1796a.JPG
DSCN3382b.jpg


These have lasted outdoors for 4-5 years, though I did find in the end the connection screws on the boards went rusty and I replaced most with soldered hard-wiring.
 
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