playmofire
Registered
She's a stunner, Mick! I especially like the warm orange glow inside the passenger area.
Reo Railbus
- Thread starter trammayo
- Start date
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
A real credit to you Mick. It will give hours of pleasure trundling around your fine layout.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
I would like to say thank you all for your comments (and I do) but I'm not sure they are deserved.
Yesterday I made and fitted a bell. I took it outside to take a pic in the sunshine, and was truly disappointed at the standard of finish. Working inside, using CFL lighting - either inside the shed or the cottage - hides the faults in woodwork and glue that has run. I do wear spectacles for close-up work but only the sunshine revealed wood fibres that are like 4" nails stuck out and the like. It doesn't stand up to close scrutiny!
Anyway, it will have to do for now before I try and alter things. Here's a pic of the bell. Its turned from a piece of 10mm aluminium, with a 1/16th brass split pin through it, and a tiny piece of brass tube on top, before bending the pin over to form the top bracket. The cradle bracket was cut from a piece of 20mm square aluminium, drilled with two 1mm holes, then the end of the arms were notched to sit the bell and its bracket in. I did paint it but, with handling, the paintwork was scratched (don't have any etching primer for aluminium).
The cradle was glued (CA) and pinned to the cab front, then the bell was also glued in position. I touched it up with Humbrol brass metallic and some more Humbrol black.
I will make and fit handrails, then get on with fitting swiches and a new battery box, then there are the fuel tanks to make, etc.
Yesterday I made and fitted a bell. I took it outside to take a pic in the sunshine, and was truly disappointed at the standard of finish. Working inside, using CFL lighting - either inside the shed or the cottage - hides the faults in woodwork and glue that has run. I do wear spectacles for close-up work but only the sunshine revealed wood fibres that are like 4" nails stuck out and the like. It doesn't stand up to close scrutiny!
Anyway, it will have to do for now before I try and alter things. Here's a pic of the bell. Its turned from a piece of 10mm aluminium, with a 1/16th brass split pin through it, and a tiny piece of brass tube on top, before bending the pin over to form the top bracket. The cradle bracket was cut from a piece of 20mm square aluminium, drilled with two 1mm holes, then the end of the arms were notched to sit the bell and its bracket in. I did paint it but, with handling, the paintwork was scratched (don't have any etching primer for aluminium).
The cradle was glued (CA) and pinned to the cab front, then the bell was also glued in position. I touched it up with Humbrol brass metallic and some more Humbrol black.
I will make and fit handrails, then get on with fitting swiches and a new battery box, then there are the fuel tanks to make, etc.
tramcar trev
all manner of mechanical apparatus...
A tip to get paint to stick to brass, copper and aluminium....... Without etch primer.
Give the item a wash in hot vinegar and allow the vinegar to slightly etch the surface, then rinse in hot water. Don't touch the object with your fingers at any stage, dry with a hairdrier or in the sun BUT NOT with a cloth. Then paint.
Give the item a wash in hot vinegar and allow the vinegar to slightly etch the surface, then rinse in hot water. Don't touch the object with your fingers at any stage, dry with a hairdrier or in the sun BUT NOT with a cloth. Then paint.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
That's a usefull tip Trev (and one I'll try and remember for next time)
And Mike, its the meds you know (already got cataracts starting in both eyes) - the consultant says its nothing to do with the medication (even though its one of the known side effects). I'm sick of being ill
I'm going to sand down some bits and repaint.
And Mike, its the meds you know (already got cataracts starting in both eyes) - the consultant says its nothing to do with the medication (even though its one of the known side effects). I'm sick of being ill
I'm going to sand down some bits and repaint.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
After a crisis or two, I've finally got back to the railbus. Yesterday afternoon, I made a couple of fuel tanks from scrap wood and ply. These were painted and left until today to fix to the underside.
The switches (on/off and forward/reverse) are hidden by the 'tank'. An on/off switch for the lighting will be fitted behind the opposite tank when the saloon interior is built (still waiting for figures).
I decided to go for 4xAA 2500ma rechargeables (giving a nominal 4.8v) - 3.99 euro per pack of four at Lidl. The battery pack/s unplug and I hope to secure them using some velcro if I can remember where I put it!
I tried it out before taking a few pics. Its OK on reasonable level track but doesn't like the 1:30 climb to the High Level line (wheelslip). I have tried it out on the trailer line and think it will be OK.
I still have to make the handrails as well as the interior (and tidy up the paintwork). Of late, the project has been rather tedious, as attempts to get on with it have been thwarted at every step. My most important work will be getting ready for the trailer's first outing this year (two week's time) but I would like to have the railbus completed by then (fingers crossed).
The switches (on/off and forward/reverse) are hidden by the 'tank'. An on/off switch for the lighting will be fitted behind the opposite tank when the saloon interior is built (still waiting for figures).
I decided to go for 4xAA 2500ma rechargeables (giving a nominal 4.8v) - 3.99 euro per pack of four at Lidl. The battery pack/s unplug and I hope to secure them using some velcro if I can remember where I put it!
I tried it out before taking a few pics. Its OK on reasonable level track but doesn't like the 1:30 climb to the High Level line (wheelslip). I have tried it out on the trailer line and think it will be OK.
I still have to make the handrails as well as the interior (and tidy up the paintwork). Of late, the project has been rather tedious, as attempts to get on with it have been thwarted at every step. My most important work will be getting ready for the trailer's first outing this year (two week's time) but I would like to have the railbus completed by then (fingers crossed).
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Well I did cure the traction problem - added extra weight.
I made the handrails for the cab doors, the missing one for the sliding door and a pair for the rear platform. Also made a couple of door knobs - the plates being gold coloured wrapping paper and double-sided tape.
I also swapped over the hook & loop coupling for a Aristo one I had swapped elsewhere and filled in the slots on the raear platform (where the vestibule door used to fit). I also varnished over the cab paintwork.
The next thing to command my attention was the road name. I decided to call it the Ox Mountains & Moy Junction R.R. The body is around 340mm long and I needed a strip of name decals that long if I was to cover up all the original Penn lettering (without recourse to rubbing down and repainting).
I decided to print my own on a black background with yellow lettering - the black strip being 340mm x 14mm (lettering 8mm high). Now, as I've only got an A4 printer, I considered doing the lettering and one end, and then a seperate strip of black for the opposite end. However, measuring the diagonal of the paper, I realised I could print it in one - albeit only one 'banner' per sheet of paper.
I used MS Word and the Drawing symbol for a square. The square was elongated to fit the landscape page and filled black. The the lettering was added using WordArt and checked againt the "page" measurement bars by zooming in on 'View'.
Coloured fill was added and the ouline of the lettering was also changed to the fill colour. Once I was happy with alignment and centering, I grouped the shape and the text (hold down the shift key and click on the text and the shape - make sure you move the cursor away from the text but still on the shape). Right click and a shell menu drops down to allow you to click on Grouping. If it is hasn't been grouped before, it will only allow Group.
Once it was grouped, I clicked off and then back on the object and swivelled it to a diagonal position. I then stretched either end into the corners of the page with some further tweaking to allow for maximum length. The I did a test print on plain paper before going to photo paper. I should mention I find it best to use a 'narrow' print if the grouped object is going to be steched - otherwise the lettering might look a little too fat when stretched.
I had thought that using photo paper, and printing 'best', might give good results but the yellow turned out too deep and the black had a bluish tinge. I persevered as I thought the varnish might alter the hue of the black. I varnished both sides of the paper to prevent ingress of moisture (based on a learning curve). However, the varnish didn't alter it so I decided to use plain paper (80gsm - Tesco's finest).
I thought I'd print it photo quality but the colours didn't come out right (I had to set the printer to printing on photo paper to get borderless printing and Epson are very clever at screwing anything up that doesn't come from them like ink and paper).
So, rather than waste the paper, I printed in photo mode on plain paper which resulted in a miniscule corner missing off one end of the 'banners'. Nothing to worry about. The names were cut out, double-sided tape applied and trimmed, then the raw (white) edges were coloured in with large felt tip marker.
I made the handrails for the cab doors, the missing one for the sliding door and a pair for the rear platform. Also made a couple of door knobs - the plates being gold coloured wrapping paper and double-sided tape.
I also swapped over the hook & loop coupling for a Aristo one I had swapped elsewhere and filled in the slots on the raear platform (where the vestibule door used to fit). I also varnished over the cab paintwork.
The next thing to command my attention was the road name. I decided to call it the Ox Mountains & Moy Junction R.R. The body is around 340mm long and I needed a strip of name decals that long if I was to cover up all the original Penn lettering (without recourse to rubbing down and repainting).
I decided to print my own on a black background with yellow lettering - the black strip being 340mm x 14mm (lettering 8mm high). Now, as I've only got an A4 printer, I considered doing the lettering and one end, and then a seperate strip of black for the opposite end. However, measuring the diagonal of the paper, I realised I could print it in one - albeit only one 'banner' per sheet of paper.
I used MS Word and the Drawing symbol for a square. The square was elongated to fit the landscape page and filled black. The the lettering was added using WordArt and checked againt the "page" measurement bars by zooming in on 'View'.
Coloured fill was added and the ouline of the lettering was also changed to the fill colour. Once I was happy with alignment and centering, I grouped the shape and the text (hold down the shift key and click on the text and the shape - make sure you move the cursor away from the text but still on the shape). Right click and a shell menu drops down to allow you to click on Grouping. If it is hasn't been grouped before, it will only allow Group.
Once it was grouped, I clicked off and then back on the object and swivelled it to a diagonal position. I then stretched either end into the corners of the page with some further tweaking to allow for maximum length. The I did a test print on plain paper before going to photo paper. I should mention I find it best to use a 'narrow' print if the grouped object is going to be steched - otherwise the lettering might look a little too fat when stretched.
I had thought that using photo paper, and printing 'best', might give good results but the yellow turned out too deep and the black had a bluish tinge. I persevered as I thought the varnish might alter the hue of the black. I varnished both sides of the paper to prevent ingress of moisture (based on a learning curve). However, the varnish didn't alter it so I decided to use plain paper (80gsm - Tesco's finest).
I thought I'd print it photo quality but the colours didn't come out right (I had to set the printer to printing on photo paper to get borderless printing and Epson are very clever at screwing anything up that doesn't come from them like ink and paper).
So, rather than waste the paper, I printed in photo mode on plain paper which resulted in a miniscule corner missing off one end of the 'banners'. Nothing to worry about. The names were cut out, double-sided tape applied and trimmed, then the raw (white) edges were coloured in with large felt tip marker.
playmofire
Registered
She looks superb, Mick, truly superb!
When, btw, did you add the grilles to the windows?
When, btw, did you add the grilles to the windows?
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
Darned fine, Mick, darned fine.
Be careful with leaving her out in the light too much as the name strip colours will fade unless of course you are using Epson's K inks (pigment as opposed to dye) which will last a lot better!
Be careful with leaving her out in the light too much as the name strip colours will fade unless of course you are using Epson's K inks (pigment as opposed to dye) which will last a lot better!
lone ranger
Trams, Southern region BR & USA steam G Scale
Looks really good mick
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Well, thanks all - still got a lot to do but I wanted it runable for this coming Sunday when I take my trailer layout to a (agri & vintage) show if the weather permits.
Gordon. The windows are original - the lines supposedly represent curtains. I think coaches that are fitted with seats have open windows - like this one .....
I should have replaced them really with some clear for the main window (the quarterlights are coloured so would stay) and if I can get them out, I'll do just that when I start on the interior.
Mike. I'm using some "equivalents" at the moment as the originals cost around 10 euro per cartridge. Light isn't a major problem as I don't leave anything out but humidity is! Its drier in winter than summer - it tops 80%! Epson DuraBrite is supposedly water resistant but I haven't heard of the K type before
Gordon. The windows are original - the lines supposedly represent curtains. I think coaches that are fitted with seats have open windows - like this one .....
I should have replaced them really with some clear for the main window (the quarterlights are coloured so would stay) and if I can get them out, I'll do just that when I start on the interior.
Mike. I'm using some "equivalents" at the moment as the originals cost around 10 euro per cartridge. Light isn't a major problem as I don't leave anything out but humidity is! Its drier in winter than summer - it tops 80%! Epson DuraBrite is supposedly water resistant but I haven't heard of the K type before
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
On the day of my previous post (above), I ordered some latching push-button switches from the UK. They arrived Thursday but I was going to leave fitting one until after today's show. However, I learnt Friday lunch-time that the show had been cancelled. So in the afternoon I had a spell in the shed.
The single pole switch needed a 10mm hole to be fitted through. The stove pipe (or 'jack') provided that locating hole as I intended to fix the stack to the switch.
The stove pipe as fitted .....
The switch even had a plastic bezel like the weather collar on the bottom of the stack (bonus!).
I fitted the switch by holding the nut to the underside and by turning the switch in-situ. The nut itself couldn't spin because the flat was held by the roof. Perfect fit.
Next I cut off the stack above the weather collar and filed the cut square. A piece of ball pen outer tube fit the inside of the stack and a crew was found to go through that tube. A 3mm pilot hole was drilled in the button, then a drop of glue on the tube base and it was secured to the button. Some upvc pipe cement was used to hold the flue stack secure. One the glue had set, I tried it for positive action and it proved fine.
Next (which was this morning's job), I soldered a pair of wires to it and taped them to the underside of the roof before connecting the wiring again. I have still retained the sliding switch underneath the car to act as a main breaker.
The 4-AA battery box was also secured at the same time using velcro and double-sided tape. I only used the hook side of the tape (on the floor and on the box) because I thought, if I had used the hook and loop, the pull required would unstick the tape. It hold it pretty well. I need to do the same with the lighting battery box.
The single pole switch needed a 10mm hole to be fitted through. The stove pipe (or 'jack') provided that locating hole as I intended to fix the stack to the switch.
The stove pipe as fitted .....
The switch even had a plastic bezel like the weather collar on the bottom of the stack (bonus!).
I fitted the switch by holding the nut to the underside and by turning the switch in-situ. The nut itself couldn't spin because the flat was held by the roof. Perfect fit.
Next I cut off the stack above the weather collar and filed the cut square. A piece of ball pen outer tube fit the inside of the stack and a crew was found to go through that tube. A 3mm pilot hole was drilled in the button, then a drop of glue on the tube base and it was secured to the button. Some upvc pipe cement was used to hold the flue stack secure. One the glue had set, I tried it for positive action and it proved fine.
Next (which was this morning's job), I soldered a pair of wires to it and taped them to the underside of the roof before connecting the wiring again. I have still retained the sliding switch underneath the car to act as a main breaker.
The 4-AA battery box was also secured at the same time using velcro and double-sided tape. I only used the hook side of the tape (on the floor and on the box) because I thought, if I had used the hook and loop, the pull required would unstick the tape. It hold it pretty well. I need to do the same with the lighting battery box.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Both battery boxes can be unplugged for ease of changing the batteries.
The finished stove pipe....
On test (yes the sun did come out after all the rain!)......
So now its a lot easier to stop and start - rather than grabbing hold of it and fumbling for the off switch.
Now what I want is a very simple (and cheap) keyfob remote and receiver to swich it on off. Reversing will be done via the sliding switch underneath in the dummy fuel tank.
Anybody any ideas?
The finished stove pipe....
On test (yes the sun did come out after all the rain!)......
So now its a lot easier to stop and start - rather than grabbing hold of it and fumbling for the off switch.
Now what I want is a very simple (and cheap) keyfob remote and receiver to swich it on off. Reversing will be done via the sliding switch underneath in the dummy fuel tank.
Anybody any ideas?
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Well, after a lot of messing about with the remote LED Dimmer, (see Key Fob thread) the railbus has a simple (and temperamental) remote control.
However, the freight compartment is now full of battery boxes and the remote dimmer!
It has been well tested this last few days both in manual mode (performing without a hitch for a long time at the show I went to last Sunday) and in 'remote' mode yesterday and today in the garden......
As a cheap remote it probably works better when fed 12 to 24v. Mine's running at 9.6 volts so its probably not fair to condemn it - after all, it is an led dimmer and that's what it does!
However, the freight compartment is now full of battery boxes and the remote dimmer!
It has been well tested this last few days both in manual mode (performing without a hitch for a long time at the show I went to last Sunday) and in 'remote' mode yesterday and today in the garden......
As a cheap remote it probably works better when fed 12 to 24v. Mine's running at 9.6 volts so its probably not fair to condemn it - after all, it is an led dimmer and that's what it does!