Reo Railbus
- Thread starter trammayo
- Start date
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
3Valve said:KeithT said:
Ah yes the dreaded droop is definitely something to be avoided
Looking forward to seeing this finished Mick. Think it'll be a cracker.
On my medication?
Cheers Gareth - I've got renewed hope (with the railbus). I set to and made some alterations.
(1)
I filed a little off the lower truck stretcher's upturned lip to allow the motor to sit 0.5mm lower (in case I was stressing the plastic mounting) and put the Sorbo rubber back in - as I originally planned - to keep things tight but also to allow a little movement if required.
(2)
I removed the top saddle, again a little easing with the file, and replaced. The retaining nuts were hand tightened and this removed any undue pressure on the motor and gears.
(3)
I turned the truck round as suggested.
(4)
Before putting the truck back, I removed the Perspex (old number plate) and chamfered it where it fits on the balcony platform. Despite appearances to the contrary, this has levelled it up, in line with the car body (second photo shows it looking something like).
Once put back together I thought "Right, two double AA battery boxes in series".
That would have been OK except I had no spare batteries (apart from rechargables), so I connected the three cell box back and switched on.
Well, not only did it go faster, it was quieter too (still noisy with the gearing but it adds a little character I suppose). Indeed, it did a circuit without any added weight!
I added the weights again to see if it it would climb the 1 in 30 up the trestles and it did! In fact the only problem encountered was the Hebe next to the water tower, the car's steps catching the plant and holding up the railbus. It managed to pull free just as I got to it.
Apologies for pic quality - it was moving
1; Truck turned round and the mounting "plate" more on the level...
2; Climbing up from the junction - on a (poor) distance shot the mounting plate looks OK.
3; Rounding the return curve ...
4; On Ivy ledge - the offending Hebe below on the link line (which the railbus will use to regain the outer track...
So, It's back in the game!
JRinTawa
Member of the Wellington Garden Railway Group
Excellent job. One though I had, and no doubt you thought about it and dismissed as there is probably not enough room, but want about a chain drive to the second axle? Though sounds like the other ideas have cracked the traction problem anyway.
Just for the record I got some chain drive stuff from MotionCo. http://www.motionco.co.uk/
Just for the record I got some chain drive stuff from MotionCo. http://www.motionco.co.uk/
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Thanks John (I've also bookmarked that site - its amazing what's on your own doorstep and your unaware!).
No, there isn't any room I'm afraid because of the way its put together. If the drive unit was mounted vertically, then it would have been a viable option.
As for drive belts, I have considered them as a replacement for the extremely noisy gear drives in early Big Haulers - although that's on the Round Tu-it list. One presumes (other factors excluded) that timing belt drives will be quiet(er)?
No, there isn't any room I'm afraid because of the way its put together. If the drive unit was mounted vertically, then it would have been a viable option.
As for drive belts, I have considered them as a replacement for the extremely noisy gear drives in early Big Haulers - although that's on the Round Tu-it list. One presumes (other factors excluded) that timing belt drives will be quiet(er)?
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
well, after two weeks of nothing doing, the (slightly) warmer weather encouraged me to do a little work. I cut down the perspex to what will be its finished dimensions - capable of taking the engine bonnet (hood) and the front headstock/draw beam.
I move the bogie (truck) pivot point nearer the coach - taking care to make sure it would clear the (soon to be) cab steps. I also countersunk the two mounting holes and used c/s bolts when I put it back together after painting.
I also painted the motor and other shiny bits with some black gloss that was to hand. May make a cover to protect the gears and one at the opposite end to protect the motor.
Internally, there are no fittings in the passenger section opf the car. Indeed, there was no divisional bulkhead between the freight compartment and the saloon.
I remembered an ebay purchase (assembled Bachmann combine kit) which came with a bulkhead loose in the box.
I tried it for size - and it fitted! I gave it a spray of red oxide primer pending further thoughts on the interior.
I intend making passenger seats, fitting a stove (I have a new one to replace a non-working one in another coach), and generally making it look like a passenger compartment.
I move the bogie (truck) pivot point nearer the coach - taking care to make sure it would clear the (soon to be) cab steps. I also countersunk the two mounting holes and used c/s bolts when I put it back together after painting.
I also painted the motor and other shiny bits with some black gloss that was to hand. May make a cover to protect the gears and one at the opposite end to protect the motor.
Internally, there are no fittings in the passenger section opf the car. Indeed, there was no divisional bulkhead between the freight compartment and the saloon.
I remembered an ebay purchase (assembled Bachmann combine kit) which came with a bulkhead loose in the box.
I tried it for size - and it fitted! I gave it a spray of red oxide primer pending further thoughts on the interior.
I intend making passenger seats, fitting a stove (I have a new one to replace a non-working one in another coach), and generally making it look like a passenger compartment.
playmofire
Registered
It just gets better and better, Mick. I think you've another winner on your hands here.
tramcar trev
all manner of mechanical apparatus...
Really superb, will be a model of some standing when you finish it.....
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Thanks for the comments Gorden & Trev. Weather's attrocious here so going out to the shed is a bit off-putting. However, I braved the high winds (threatening to lift the roof off) and cut some ply shapes for the cab front.
Where the roof sits (see first pic in previous post), there is a 0.5mm gap. I had already decided to make the cab from two sheets of 1.5mm ply, with the top held secure in the gap.
I had to rebate the inner piece to reduce its thickness and after scoring a deep line, I used a full-size rebate plane.
The outer ply was reduced in height to follow the contours of the roof itself.
Windows need to be cut, and boarding scored in, before painting. Its my intention to sandwich a piece of clear plastic between the two pieces for the glazing. Hopefully the composite will have a little more structural integrity than the slightly warped pieces at the moment.
Where the roof sits (see first pic in previous post), there is a 0.5mm gap. I had already decided to make the cab from two sheets of 1.5mm ply, with the top held secure in the gap.
I had to rebate the inner piece to reduce its thickness and after scoring a deep line, I used a full-size rebate plane.
The outer ply was reduced in height to follow the contours of the roof itself.
Windows need to be cut, and boarding scored in, before painting. Its my intention to sandwich a piece of clear plastic between the two pieces for the glazing. Hopefully the composite will have a little more structural integrity than the slightly warped pieces at the moment.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Altered the baseplate at the front to give more depth and to also (I thought) make it more rigid. Still needs to be more rigis in its mounting to the coach balcony platform. The perspex is glued and screwed from underneath.
Today I cut out the window openings (full width), then scribed the planking on both pieces before glueing in a sill on the cab front and then inserting the glazing bars and added overlays.
Tried for size,
then painted outside in red oxide primer and the inner section green
Also painted end of coach in same green (as this will be the cab interior) but left the red door as it was.
Today I cut out the window openings (full width), then scribed the planking on both pieces before glueing in a sill on the cab front and then inserting the glazing bars and added overlays.
Tried for size,
then painted outside in red oxide primer and the inner section green
Also painted end of coach in same green (as this will be the cab interior) but left the red door as it was.
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
oooooh yes that is looking superb
Excellent bash, Mick
Excellent bash, Mick
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Thanks Mike.
I have glazed and glued the cab pieces together - having cut out the doors since my last post. I also mixed some paint to match the coach body (needs another coat at least). It needs further overlays on the corners and further thoughts on accessing the screws for securing the roof down (probably removing the steps should work). Then its on with the engine bonnet.
Managed to get some matt spray varnish in Blighty - something that wasn't available to me over here.
I have glazed and glued the cab pieces together - having cut out the doors since my last post. I also mixed some paint to match the coach body (needs another coat at least). It needs further overlays on the corners and further thoughts on accessing the screws for securing the roof down (probably removing the steps should work). Then its on with the engine bonnet.
Managed to get some matt spray varnish in Blighty - something that wasn't available to me over here.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Made the engine bonnet from balsa and some staples for the louvres. Added the front beam (12x6mm basswood), corners to the cab front. Headlight and cowcatcher to make next.
A bit ham fisted with the staples - shoved the odd one too hard
The corners actually fit over the doors and, once the roof is fastened down (and the bonnet), the cab front will be held securely in place.
The paint needs another coat and, eventually, the gloss dulling down with matt varnish.
A bit ham fisted with the staples - shoved the odd one too hard
The corners actually fit over the doors and, once the roof is fastened down (and the bonnet), the cab front will be held securely in place.
The paint needs another coat and, eventually, the gloss dulling down with matt varnish.
tramcar trev
all manner of mechanical apparatus...
Looking good, I'm so pleased your going to de gloss it too.....
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Thanks David and Trev. Its getting there slowly (too slow really - waiting for paints to dry or harden).
Anyway, yesterday morning I started on the cow catcher:-
The cowcatcher is 70mm wide and constructed from birch ply and 2mm aluminium wire.
The ply I have available is 1.5mm thick, so I cut two of each component to glue together (to add thickness and strength).
When the glue had set, the two resultant pieces were sanded down before gluing them together,
I measured the centres (at 5mm) for the bars and also drew a set of lines on paper to get the alignment for the bars on the vee shaped piece. This was the easiest way for me.
The 2mm holes for the aluminium wire were drilled using a pin chuck (those on the bottom piece being angled to suit the alignment of the bars. Using the ?L? shaped plywood form as a guide, two of each bars were cut from the wire, the top portion of the wire being bent to insert into the top of the cowcatcher. This operation wasn?t to the nearest thou or micron but rather ?just try it for size?. Once the six pairs of bars (or struts) were cut, it was just a simple matter of inserting them and applying the glue.
The coupling jaw was fashioned from scrap aluminium too ? folded, drilled, then pinned to, and through, the top of the frame (with the pins clenched over at the back ? and a drop of glue as a belt and braces approach) ? and the drawbar was fashioned from a coffee stirrer and secured by a pin at the top, and a dab of glue at the bottom. I had no need for a working drawbar ? otherwise I would cut one from steel or ali.
I coated it all in sanding sealer, tickled it up with fine wet and dry, then primed it with diluted red oxide, then a coat of Humbrol acrylic. Once the paint is fully dry, it will be fixed to the headstock/beam.
Anyway, yesterday morning I started on the cow catcher:-
The cowcatcher is 70mm wide and constructed from birch ply and 2mm aluminium wire.
The ply I have available is 1.5mm thick, so I cut two of each component to glue together (to add thickness and strength).
When the glue had set, the two resultant pieces were sanded down before gluing them together,
I measured the centres (at 5mm) for the bars and also drew a set of lines on paper to get the alignment for the bars on the vee shaped piece. This was the easiest way for me.
The 2mm holes for the aluminium wire were drilled using a pin chuck (those on the bottom piece being angled to suit the alignment of the bars. Using the ?L? shaped plywood form as a guide, two of each bars were cut from the wire, the top portion of the wire being bent to insert into the top of the cowcatcher. This operation wasn?t to the nearest thou or micron but rather ?just try it for size?. Once the six pairs of bars (or struts) were cut, it was just a simple matter of inserting them and applying the glue.
The coupling jaw was fashioned from scrap aluminium too ? folded, drilled, then pinned to, and through, the top of the frame (with the pins clenched over at the back ? and a drop of glue as a belt and braces approach) ? and the drawbar was fashioned from a coffee stirrer and secured by a pin at the top, and a dab of glue at the bottom. I had no need for a working drawbar ? otherwise I would cut one from steel or ali.
I coated it all in sanding sealer, tickled it up with fine wet and dry, then primed it with diluted red oxide, then a coat of Humbrol acrylic. Once the paint is fully dry, it will be fixed to the headstock/beam.
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
That will do very nicely.
Well done that man.........
Well done that man.........
garrymartin
My Family,Railways, Beer and the Seaside
Super work so far Mick I am looking forward to seeing all come together so to speak
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Thanks for your comments chaps.
I fixed the cowcatcher on this morning. A couple of 2mm dia holes throught it, and 1.5mm corresponding holes in beam. I used a couple of 4 x 1/2 slotted round head screws - these were used to secure the catcher. Once tightened up, they were removed one at a time, and the heads filed square and flat. Because the screws had cut their own thread, it was easier to screw the reworked screw/s back in.
Yesterday I had a go at spraying the matt varnish (everywhere). I had kept it in the house and was shaking it as I walked across to the shed. Anyway, me and the can parted company as it flew into orbit and then crashed on the floor. The spray head had snapped off but, with a little manipulation, it seemed to work.
In the shed, I tried to use the damaged can. A bit of a mess as pic.
So I had to paint over the mess - maybe I'll use the satin varnish to finish it off.
Still loads to do to the front yet, and the rear, and the interior ........
I fixed the cowcatcher on this morning. A couple of 2mm dia holes throught it, and 1.5mm corresponding holes in beam. I used a couple of 4 x 1/2 slotted round head screws - these were used to secure the catcher. Once tightened up, they were removed one at a time, and the heads filed square and flat. Because the screws had cut their own thread, it was easier to screw the reworked screw/s back in.
Yesterday I had a go at spraying the matt varnish (everywhere). I had kept it in the house and was shaking it as I walked across to the shed. Anyway, me and the can parted company as it flew into orbit and then crashed on the floor. The spray head had snapped off but, with a little manipulation, it seemed to work.
In the shed, I tried to use the damaged can. A bit of a mess as pic.
So I had to paint over the mess - maybe I'll use the satin varnish to finish it off.
Still loads to do to the front yet, and the rear, and the interior ........