Reo Railbus

[trammayo]

Last year, I bought a couple of Aristo Sierra coaches off a fellow Forumite. I have a rake of four already, but one of my purchases was a combine.

As soon as I saw on the Sales section, I knew what I wanted to do - convert one to a Reo railbus. I know how they look from the side, but I wondered if anybody had a frontal view of one? Need to get the engine bonnet and cab window details!

Thank you in anticipation!

This is (hopefully) going to me a manually controlled battery version. I'm already working out the motor drive details and will post here when sorted.

 

[Dtsteam]

I don't profess to know much about them, but this looked interesting so I had a dig. Reo railbus seems to cover a multitude of vehicles from the Aristo one http://www.gscaleonline.co.uk/ARIST...ON-PACIFIC-RAIL-BUS-SIERRA-COACH-COMBO-83111C < Link To here through a more bus like one http://www.flickr.com/photos/8619254@N03/543939904/in/faves-tramwayjohn/ < Link To here and http://www.flickr.com/photos/19659026@N03/4340350317/ < Link To here, however my fave so far is http://www.buffalocreekandgauley.com/LOCOMOTIVES/BusB/bc_g_B.jpg < Link To this one.

If you are absolutely desperate you could start http://passcarphotos.info/Indices/DB1.htm < Link To here and work through 7 packed pages of links to railcar pictures. Actually there is probably loads of cool stuff, but I'd have to be snowed in for a few weeks before I'd have a go.

Best of luck...

 

[tramcar trev]

Never seen a Reo railbus but did go to school on a Reo Speedwagon

 

[trammayo]

I don't profess to know much about them, but this looked interesting so I had a dig. Reo railbus seems to cover a multitude of vehicles from the Aristo one http://www.gscaleonline.co.uk/ARIST...ON-PACIFIC-RAIL-BUS-SIERRA-COACH-COMBO-83111C < Link To here through a more bus like one http://www.flickr.com/photos/8619254@N03/543939904/in/faves-tramwayjohn/ < Link To here and http://www.flickr.com/photos/19659026@N03/4340350317/ < Link To here, however my fave so far is http://www.buffalocreekandgauley.com/LOCOMOTIVES/BusB/bc_g_B.jpg < Link To this one.

If you are absolutely desperate you could start http://passcarphotos.info/Indices/DB1.htm < Link To here and work through 7 packed pages of links to railcar pictures. Actually there is probably loads of cool stuff, but I'd have to be snowed in for a few weeks before I'd have a go.

Best of luck...

Many thanks David - the first one suits everything I need as that's what I'm making (good old John Prescott - always detailed pics - don't know why other sellers don't do the same!).

And as for your favourite - well it would be mine too!. A dinky little shorty

Thanks again!

And Trev - that would be music to some people's ears

 

[trammayo]

As this is a ?bash?, I do not need to make any drawings as there are no major alterations. Photographs alone will provide everything I need to know (thanks for the pointers David).

So, as always, I compile a folder of pictures garnered from the internet as my references;-

I had looked at various proprietary models over the last few years (and even started to make some wheels) but the Aristocraft Overton/Sierra coaches were the kick-start I needed. I estimate that the whole project, using bits lying around, will cost £25 (including cost of coach!).

The first thing to consider was how was it to be powered ? track or battery? In the end I decided on battery as I realised I could make up a compact power truck using a small combined motor and drive unit ;-

When I bashed my Heisler from an early R/C Big hauler, I retained the tender to make something out of it. The short freight trucks under it were ideal for this project (and identical);-

The axle on the drive unit is long enough for most projects and, in this case, needed shortening. A junior hacksaw and a file took care of this and I tried it in the truck frame. With some judicious cuts, additions of new stretchers, I would have a what I required;-

The underside of the truck has retaining screws for the side frames and these could be used for the lower stretcher ?..

A piece of scrap aluminium was cut to shape, drilled and fitted. Next the top bolster was cut ? removing the drawbar ? to provide clearance for the motor;-

 

[trammayo]

Next I turned my attention to the wheels. I had no spare metal wheels, so these had to be purloined from a J & S coach (swapped for plastic ? one axle per truck). I removed one pair of wheels from their axle and fitted them to the motor unit ? photo shows the (now) spare axle in front of motor unit;-

Next I cut a strip of aluminium to form the top stretcher and pivot/mounting point. The strip was bent to suit the curvature of the motor and the 3mm stainless steel pivot bolt (with head recessed into the strip) suitably fastened in. The protruding remains of the bolster were used to provide mountings for the retaining bolts ? the recesses in the plastic were ideal for captive nuts so it was easy to fasten down the metal.

As the new truck will be mounted forward of the coach?s existing truck, I took the opportunity to see how it would look (I blanked out the soon to be removed leading truck). Certainly increases the wheelbase ? no problem in the garden but it might not work on the trailer layout! The truck needs moving nearer the coach body of course.

So what have I to do next? Well the vestibules need removing from either end, the roof needs turning around as part of the process, the underframe needs making for the engine compartment (to mount the truck from), and a cap creating. A headlamp to make and other small detailing bits are required. I may also need to make a cowcatcher if I can?t find one. The rear platform balcony rails will need to be sorted after the vestibule removal. The Aristo model also has a canvas awning hanging from the roof (not pictured here);-

I am thinking that the battery boxes (one for power and the other for lighting) will double up as gas tanks when fastened behind the cab steps.

More to follow later.

 

[Dtsteam]

That's a very neat power truck Mick. These motors have a tendency to jump out of gear, but the ally strap should put paid to that.

Did you have to cut any of the gearbox away or is there enough ground clearance ?

 

[trammayo]

Hi David - yes there might be a problem with the motor coming out of its cradle if left to its own devices (I used a tie wrap when I converted my first railbus to battery operation) but it's tightly sandwiched as you observed.

Thanks for your comment on the truck - I'm pleased how it has turned out. I took a pic of the clearance - nearly 3mm! Shouldn't be a problem (says he ).

My original intention (on a totally scratch built truck) would have been to use a geared motor and bevel gears, mounted longitudinally, and horizontally, in the passenger truck, with the unpowered axle split into two (gapped to accommodate the motor) - with supports of course.

 

[trammayo]

I stripped the coach down yesterday to remove the vestibules (and to fix loose glazing and also to put the roof the opposite way round). I like the "wrought iron-work" on the ends - thought it a nice detail - but this will be hard to replicate for the rear balcony (might have to use artistic license).

The grooves in the floor (where the doors went) should prove useful for cantilevering an extended frame.

I now have a spare passenger truck and a freight truck - might scratchbuild a shortie for the trailer layout (but not for a while I think).

 

[Madman]

Is one powered axel going to be sufficient?

 

[trammayo]

Is one powered axel going to be sufficient?

I think so Dan (fingers crossed) - my scratchbuilt one hauls a 4-wheel coach and luggage van with the drive wheels being 30% larger in dia. That uses just two AA's - I thought I'd use a triple battery pack on the Reo to give a little more boost.

Apart from the usual budgetary considerations, I'm saving the parts from the coach in case this exercise doesn't go to plan. If I get chance today, I'll rig things up for a test run - both for power and overhangs!

 

[tramcar trev]

This is looking absolutley exquisite....maybe a concealed lump of lead over the drive wheel would give you better adhesion.... Now just out of interest where did you get the drive mechanism or have I glossed over that?

Will this be RC or switch and run?

 

[trammayo]

If you copy and paste this (or click on it);- http://www.mindsetsonline.co.uk < Link To www.mindsetsonline.co.uk Then go to Electricty & Electronics or search for Clunk-Click Gearboxes, it should bring them up.

I think it might have been Maplins or Rapid where I got them from originally but the above site does replacement motors (42 pence each !!!!) etc.

I was pointed in this direction by a fellow Forumite (apologies for not remembering who it was!).


It will be switch and run (or catch me who can) - maybe one day I'll push the boat out and go for R/C.

Don't know about the extra weight - as the engine compartment will be cantilevered off the end of the coach - don't want the reverse of a handbrake droop But I'll see how strong it is - might surprise myself.

 

[trammayo]

Well having spent a couple of hours messing and testing, I can say that it works but is noisy and slow due to the wheel diameter making it low-geared. It needed weight over the truck (putting it in the car body didn't work). It was running at 4.5volts - I suppose I could run it at 6v and might try that tomorrow.

With the weights over the drive axle ... bending the perspex!

And over the trailing axle. The two weights are ex-Playmobil.

And running - this is a damp area and where it lost traction.

So, not brilliant - if further evperiments fail to live up to expectations then its back to a coach until such times as I can obtain the correct power truck or I put a geared motor in the existing passenger truck (which will mean cutting a hole in the coach floor).

 

[Rob s]

Think this would look the dogs watsits

Mick if it is running on Batery power -
would it make any dif using a wheel with a traction tire on it or even two ??
just a though not sure how practicable it would be.

 

[KeithT]

Mick how about using strips of lead flashing with holes drilled through to fit over the bolt? That would equalise the weighting and avoid the dreaded "droop''.

 

[alcashj94]

Mick,

try turning the power truck round so the driven axle is inside rather than outside, it will then tend to 'dig in' rather than 'lift up' due to the leverage against the pivot point.

Allan.

 

[Madman]

I agree with Allan on the drive axle being toward the rear. Another thought on obtaining a power truck, if you are forced to go that route, could be the "Magic Carpet" powered axels from North West Short Line. I have never actually had the need for one but have seen and read about them.

 

[tramcar trev]

Looks a good candidate for one of the remote LED dimmer speed controls.........

 

[trammayo]

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions.

Rob. I wondered about that myself - I'd have to turn a groove in the wheel but where would I get a tyre(s)? The wheels are standard 31 mm.

Keith. Yes you're right about the placement of the weight. I did place it over the pivot point to start with it but it slid off, then I added the other weight, and then taped the two together. I used a piece of perspex from an old number plate which was a little shiny. The testing has proved that it needs weights (and where).

Alan. Yes, I will try that. Hopefully (if that offers any improvement), building the cab and the engine compartment will add some rigidity. The droop looks exagerated in the pic and, whilst the perspex is bolted to the coach floor, I suspect that the coach ends have tendency to droop (not immediately apparent when looking at the short section of floor).

Dan. On the Aristo model (and other makes) it is the passenger truck that has the motor block. Not having seen the model in the flesh, I wondered if the floor moulding was the one used in the coach or what (in case the block needed more clearance than the truck). I have used a couple of Aristo power blocks in the past (steam tram and steeple cab loco) - I'll have to dig them out and take measurements. Come to think of it, I have a little Centrecab I can measure too.

I've heard about the Magic Carpet units but never seen one - I'll have to investigate that!

THe only downside (to me) was the very slow speed and excessive gear noise. When making up the truck, I tried a piece of dense foam rubber to cushion the motor but I left it out. Running the motor at 6v should increase the speed but I wonder if clamping the motor in the way I have has caused the worm to be too deep in mesh?

I'll have another go when i gets light and report back. Once again, thanks all.