Rehashing an old LGB Zillertal loco RC conversion.

Hi Max,

good luck trying to get the ESU to fit the motherboard - the ESU LS4L you appear to be using may have the correct pins to fit the Bachmann motherboard but unless I was doing something dumb (always a possibility) the 5XL (pin header version) pins did not suit the socket in the Bachmann motherboard.

I swapped this unit for a 5XL with terminals but despite modifying the internal space between the tanks I could not get it to sit down satisfactorily (the steam dome/sand dome section would not sit down properly) hence moving the decoder and the RC receiver to the bunker.

This is how it all fits before closing up the back wall of the cab:

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Notice how the four-pole double throw switch, RCA connector and charging socket are all offset in the aluminium plate fitted below the bunker mounts - the decoder is slotted into a notch on the fireman's side of the bunker and screwed to a styrene packer on the right in this upside down view. The CVP Airwire receiver is attached via velcro to the inside of the back cab wall - the 4 way plug is the feed from the battery and the return from track out of the decoder. The ten pin (white) connector is the decoder outputs for lights, speaker output, etc.

The unit is almost finished - just has to have some weathering over the decals that arrived Monday:

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If you are interested in the schematics of how I wired it I can scan them and post tomorrow,

Cheers,
 
NB: Interested in your "Keep Off" signs on the tanks - given that's where I would be standing when filling the sand dome............ :)

(I fire and drive 3'6"gauge steam at Victoria's Bellarine Railway - no Mallets with ex-South African 24 Class #3620 our largest engine currently in regular service)
 
So, after a wee bit of a hiatus, like 18 months (!) I'm ready to start getting everything fitted up on the LGB Zillertalbahn #2. After consultations with Phil at RC Trains I am now confident I can manage to solder the wires in all the right places so the electrons flow in all the right directions and right places, with minimal risk of white smoke emissions. Just need to hope every thing still functions as it did before I pulled it apart and added a few bit, like sound. So today's little bit of work, the all important schematic. Well, I think I understand me own werk. Tomorrow we getdown to it. Honest. Max.

Behold the workings of my, seemingly unfathomable, logic. An exepert has cast their eyes upon it and found it to be good. The whistle (that ?) trigger goes to pad C on 65c board. The unlabled coily bits at either end are the LGB incandecent lamps being reused.

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And all that that involves this pile of bits. Note, batteries now neatly heat shrink wrapped. Oh no, I've now got a heat gun to play with !
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Slowly but surely it's coming together. Just got to finish off the 5v circuit from the buck that feeds the lamps and smoke generator. Then the big one - plumb in that tiny 65c RX/ESC. Just have to pray nothing has happened to render it inoperable while in storage. One basic systems check done, nothing blowing the fuse.....yet. Battery fully charged, motions properly quartered and not binding, all cable ends "capped".
On chassis. Top, out of veiw, L - R, Charge socket/LED/on-off switch/fuse.
Below that, L - R, MLS card/battery pack/65c RX-ESC.
Bottom, L - R, Battery/dc-dc buck 5v/smoke generator switch.
In the cab - rear lights/Speaker. The latter fits perfectly, offset at the back of the cab, behind the dummy firing implements, with holes drilled.
Loco body with front lights and smoke generator fitted. It drops on chassis with nothing fouling, so far. Max

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Neatly done Max. Have you connected the MLS card whistle trigger to the Rx65c? Looks like pad C (p11) would work if your Rx65c is standard issue.

Rik
 
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Neatly done Max. Have you connected the MLS card whistle trigger to the Rx65c? Looks like pad C (p11) would work if your Rx65c is standard issue.

Rik
Hi Rik. Thank you, yes whistle will be connected to pad C. I was advised by PhillP of this assignment. As will pads A & B be connected, which will be for directional lighting - one end of light circuit to the pad the other to the + pad on the buck (set to 5v). Cab light and smoke generator, fed from bucks + pad that lead back switch then to - pad on buck. Max
 
Have you considered replacing the filament bulbs with LEDs? Less battery drain. You can get direct screw in replacements to save rewiring
Eg - 10x 12V E5 LES Lilliput LED Yellow Miniature Screw 00 OO HO Scale Signal Bulbs | eBay UK

Rik
Ironically I have reverted from a home brewed LED instalation, as loco was recieved, to the 5v LGB lamps acquired from a "hulk". Hence buck set to 5v. The type of LGB bulbs I have are 2 pin not screw in (old or very old types ?). I'm not too concerned about current draw as I do not tend to run locos more than 1 hour. But thanks for the tip, they look quite handy. Max
 
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