Programming Trainline45 Point Decoder

Ralphmp

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Apologies if this has been covered many moons ago but the search function didn't throw up anything helpful.

Just wanted to know if anyone has had issues changing the default address for Trainline45 Points Decoder. I've hooked mine up to my Massoth programming device and my Sprog, and neither was able to read / write any CVs successfully. (Both devices are working OK - checked them out on both Massoth and LGB multi- and single channel point decoders.)

I'm sure someone mentioned in a previous points discussion post that they'd changed the address OK - if the poster picks this up and could share what they did that would be helpful.

Thanks in advance.
Phil
 
Hullo Phil,

I programmed mine with Whatlep's help but he doesn't seem to post here anymore?

I tried a search with his name but I couldn't find his review.

You could also try Brian at Glendale Junction....
 
That article should tell you all you need to know.. My guess (if you can't change anything is the decoder is locked). - See if CV 20 is set to anything other than '115' decimal, which is the 'unlocked' value.
 
Thanks for the link to the article. It provides much more data than is present in the instructions that came with the products which are "concise" to the point of unhelpfulness. (They also claim that each decoder comes with CV1 set to 3 as default.)

I appreciate the suggestion on CV20 and I'll check this out. However, as my main problem is that neither my Massoth or Sprog appear to be able to read/write correctly any CVs to either of the 2 decoders, I'm not optimistic.

I'll let you know the outcome.

Thanks again.
 
Try writing 115 to CV20 to "unlock" the decoder. Normally if a decoder is "locked" it will ignore any CV read or write requests until it is unlocked apart from writing to the "lock" CV.
 
Try writing 115 to CV20 to "unlock" the decoder. Normally if a decoder is "locked" it will ignore any CV read or write requests until it is unlocked apart from writing to the "lock" CV.

And your equipment may well not get a 'reply' back from the decoder when you do this, so it appears not to have worked.
 
Greg

Thanks for this - interesting article, particularly the bit on some programmers not having success in writing to CV1. Maybe this is my issue and neither my Massoth nor my Sprog are actually able to do the initial CV1 write.

As I seem to recall a picture somewhere of someone programming the decoder using an LGB MTS handset to write into CV1, I'll dig out my old MTS stuff and have a go with it (if I can recall how to write CVs using the handset!!). If this doesn't work, I've also got an ESU Loksound programmer that might work. If all these fail, then I'm taking the motors/decoders back and I'll fettle the actual points to use an LGB motor.

One other thing I found out was that on Trainline's German web site, the link to the documentation for the 20002 motors/decoders sets off lots of warnings not just from my browser but my ISP! The link given - http://upload.proline-group.net/pdfs/1020002_Stand05-2015.pdf - isn't obtainable by my ISP and Googling throws up lots of Chinese-type characters. My German is very rusty these days and not up to technical conversation about web links, otherwise I'd call them and let them know there appears to be an issue.

If someone else has already figured this out and has the PDF of the instructions downloaded, perhaps you could PM me.

Cheers
 
Well, after several hours trying everything I have that writes CVs to decoders - Massoth, ESU, LGB MTS, SPROG - still no joy.

In some cases I get a message saying Write to CV1 was successful, so I then write another value to CV1 (as worked for the guy in the article Greg linked me to) and in some cases this says "OK" in others it doesn't. Regardless of the "OK" messages, when I switch from programming to DCC power the device goes back to having spasms again. I've tried interuppting the power diring the first write to CV1 (again, as worked for the guy in the article) but either I'm too slow or my programmer's are too quick as it didn't make any difference.

Beginning to wish I'd never gone down the route of using TrainLine's motors/decoders to drive TrainLine's own points!

Also, I forgot to mention that writing 115 to CV 20 doesn't have any effect - presumably as the decoder is in analog mode so it won't accept commands to write to any CVs. However, this was a useful piece of information about locked decoders t suggestion and I'll file it away for future reference.

Thanks again for the advice / suggestions. I'll post an update when I finally figure out how to solve this.
 
Mike,
Are these new, or second-hand?

I have several s/h ones here.. They have been outside for a few months, but had 'grounded van bodies' over them to keep the worst of the weather off.
Famous last words, but I didn't have a problem with them..
Do you want to either send one of yours to me, or I could program one of these to your requirements and send it to you to do a comparison, if you like?
PhilP.
 
Phil

Thanks for the kind offer. As they were new and are still under 1 year old I'll explore the "can I have one that works please or my money back" option first. If this comes to naught I'll be in touch.

Phil
 
I know that they should all be compatible and I am aware that not everyone will agree with me - but if you run one type of DCC, then use their range of accessories. The amount of inquiries on here about how do I get system 1 to talk to system 2 seems rather too large.
Usually, in my experience, if you ask how too get system 1 to talk to system 1 someone will come up with a definitive answer. As soon as that question changes to system 1 talking to system 2, people will still come up with helpful suggestions but the detail seems to start to evaporate.
 
I know that they should all be compatible and I am aware that not everyone will agree with me - but if you run one type of DCC, then use their range of accessories. The amount of inquiries on here about how do I get system 1 to talk to system 2 seems rather too large.
Usually, in my experience, if you ask how too get system 1 to talk to system 1 someone will come up with a definitive answer. As soon as that question changes to system 1 talking to system 2, people will still come up with helpful suggestions but the detail seems to start to evaporate.
I think what Alan is saying is good advice, I do not use Switch Decod rs prefering to use Air on my G and normal wiring for Point Motors on my 00. But what I am finding in G is that LGB Loco Decoders do have some issues with Massoth Kit. More specifically older LGB Sound Systems not allowing some sounds like a Whistle. Pretty important in my view. Also on occasion difficulties in updating CV's. So I am reluctanly changing over to Massoth Sound Decoders as time and finance alllow. Compatibility of Kit does appear to be solid advice. Glad I never said Sound advice!
JonD
 
I think what Alan is saying is good advice, I do not use Switch Decod rs prefering to use Air on my G and normal wiring for Point Motors on my 00. But what I am finding in G is that LGB Loco Decoders do have some issues with Massoth Kit. More specifically older LGB Sound Systems not allowing some sounds like a Whistle. Pretty important in my view. Also on occasion difficulties in updating CV's. So I am reluctanly changing over to Massoth Sound Decoders as time and finance alllow. Compatibility of Kit does appear to be solid advice. Glad I never said Sound advice!
JonD

Though the latest iterations of programming software, files from the 'new' Wiki, and older firmware in decoders, are proving 'interesting'..

Having fun and games with pulsed smoke units, XLS decoders (older ones + new software), and some programming issues..
 
Maybe I've just been licky but this is the first time I've encountered a potential "inter-brand" DCC issue. But, unless I'm mistaken, as TrainLine don't make programming devices I'm not sure how to avoid this one. Also, as some may recall, a while back I had major issues using a Massoth programmer to try and install a Massoth sound file onto a Massoth decoder.

I guess the point here is we are dealing with low volume items from specialist hobbyist organisations, so we shouldn't expect the same pretty much flawless inter-changeability and compatibility one would get with, say, using a Samsung sound bar with an LG TV.

Personally, I don't mind a challenge or two in my hobby - gives me something to focus on and I learn things. In this case, however, based on the helpful advice received to date, I'm leaning more and more towards "faulty units" as the cause. (My other half has already suggested getting 2 new items direct from the supplier whilst I pursue the problem as it will allow me to spend more time on other railway activities, and we can then finish replanting around the layout!)
 
So, new motor/decoder arrived (from a different retailer this time) and I was able to program it just as in the article by Whatlep. Wrote 30 to CV1 using my old LGB MTS kit and confirmed decoder / motor working as expected with my Massoth Navigator. Looks like the original decoders I was sold are, as I had begun to suspect, faulty items. So I'll be trying to get refund / repair / replacements.

One "tip" if anyone else decides to use these devices - the connector prongs align nicely with the outside 2 holes on a 3-way electrical pinboard "latch". This makes attaching the feed wires to the motor / decoder a simple push fit exercise and saves fiddling with choc-block connector screws. Now if I can find a way to waterproof this connection then that will make outdoor installation a doddle.

Thanks again for all the suggestions / advice.
 
Now if I can find a way to waterproof this connection then that will make outdoor installation a doddle.
I soldered wires onto the prongs, sleeved with heat shrink and filled with black Ambersil mastic....
 
So, new motor/decoder arrived (from a different retailer this time) and I was able to program it just as in the article by Whatlep. Wrote 30 to CV1 using my old LGB MTS kit and confirmed decoder / motor working as expected with my Massoth Navigator. Looks like the original decoders I was sold are, as I had begun to suspect, faulty items. So I'll be trying to get refund / repair / replacements.

One "tip" if anyone else decides to use these devices - the connector prongs align nicely with the outside 2 holes on a 3-way electrical pinboard "latch". This makes attaching the feed wires to the motor / decoder a simple push fit exercise and saves fiddling with choc-block connector screws. Now if I can find a way to waterproof this connection then that will make outdoor installation a doddle.

Thanks again for all the suggestions / advice.

Good oh!
Could you post a picture of said pinboard latch, or a link to the item please? - Might be useful, but not sure what you mean.
PhilP
 
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