Playmobil 4050

PhilP said:
There are ways of doing this.. Some better than others..

A very simple way, is to use a string of back-to-back diodes, but they will get warm, and have other limitations as well.

The main problem with 'over-volting' the motor, is it may saturate the windings, causing heating.

At low speeds the PWM '24 volts' will be off more than it is on, so the 'average' voltage is lower and the loco runs slowly. The power (when it is there) is the full 24 volts, so you get a better 'push' to the motor, and better low-speed running.
Without an oscilloscope, you can not easily tell what voltage is coming out of the motor terminals on a decoder. Also, being a 'square-wave' means your normal AC meter wil give an incorrect answer.
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That's pretty much how I've always understood it too - that if you're feeding PWM from the decoder to the motor, and the supply is nominally 24 volts, then at half-throttle the power pulses will be half at 24v and half at 0v, so as far as the motor is concerned it will see an average of about 12v..... the question then is whether the continual "spikes" of 24v will hurt the motor at all - my understanding of that has always been "no", and going back to Phil's earlier suggestions my feeling would be to give it a go and see what happens; if the motor gets hot, then you can look at other methods......

Jon.
 
John S said:
Do we have any further information on the motor, Amp Rating? Stall Current?

Just out of curiosity what were you planning for the 3D print for this?
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It has 4-14v - 10 W stamped on it and playmoil 1980, I bought a job lot and this was part of it , so as I now have it I thought I could print a British Looking diesel Body for it as my line is based on a British look :)
 
LGB-Sid said:
It has 4-14v - 10 W stamped on it and playmoil 1980, I bought a job lot and this was part of it , so as I now have it I thought I could print a British Looking diesel Body for it as my line is based on a British look :)
Click to expand...

Thanks, that answers one part, make that to be around 0.75 of an amp, wonder what the stall current is?
Have an idea fermenting! ;)
 
Done some tests on the 7550 motor block the results are: Motor block running light about 0.19 to 0.20 amps at all voltages below.
Stall current; 12V 1.14A 14V 1.3A 16V 1.5A 18V 1.7A 20V 1.9A
Hope this is of use to you. If you need any more tests let me know.
 
The minimum voltage is about 3 to 4 volts. You will also have to allow for any voltage drop in the leads and track. Also it will depend on how well the loco has been maintained.

About 20 years ago I had a Playmobil layout and the locos used Airfix Multi Train Control. The Locomotive Receiving Module was placed in the loco body and the motor blocks modified to take them.
 
I run my Playmobil locos on 24 volt DCC track power (My Power in is 30 volts DC to the command station, 24 to the track).
Never had a problem. This does not mean I won't have a problem, but if I did I would install a LGB or USA Trains block.

I used the Zimo MX645 and you can change CV 57 to limit the speed which limits the average voltage the motor will see.
A 14 volt motor running on pulsed power would only need shorter pulses to average the voltage needed to run, just like a light bulb. Of course full power would hurt the motor, but pulses that average 14 volts would not.
 
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