I think someone once did this with Playmobil track for a shop display, but it was very much a one-off.
Plastic Track
- Thread starter GAP
- Start date
I think someone once did this with Playmobil track for a shop display, but it was very much a one-off.
It's not a daft idea. Like a lot of things in the real world there's a prototype for all these things. My home town of Leeds experimented (I think at the beginning of the 20th Century) with fitting new rail heads to the tram tracks when they wore out. A special machine was tried which removed the railhead (it had to be the track that was designed for renewable railheads of course) by unclamping it has the machine moved along. The new head was then laid and secured by bending the securing portion making it clamp on.
The Copper Foil used in leaded glass work makes a very functional electric track surface for side lines and staging areas.
Most brands have a high (sunshine temps) temperature adhesive on the back side.
Didn't last but 2 or 3 months on the main line, though.
One way to change the curve or straight plastic track is to make a jig of the curve you want and attach the track to the jig and using a razor saw cut the rails where needed. Slots in the jig will act a guide. Then bend the track to match the jig. I use this method to customize my New Bright plastic track. I then fasten a thin piece if wood. 1/8th inch, or what ever you've got, to the track ties ,sleepers, and paint it to match the ground. Once ballast is in it's invisible. You should also fine sand the cuts to make them smooth. New Bright track is cheap so any mistakes are really no loss to the cause. Fun way to make poorly maintained spur track. Enjoy.
Cheers tgood
Playmobil did use their plastic track with brass inserts for shop displays in Germany around about 2000. I have got some and the train that ran on it.
Last edited:
if my math is not wrong, these trainli rails and sleepers cost about 4 bucks per foot.
on the bay, one gets brass R1 curves for 3, with a bit of patience.
seems, that this topicgives me a pretext to put up some old pics.
when i had neither enough track, nor enough money, i made track from very cheap curtain-rails.
on the bay, one gets brass R1 curves for 3, with a bit of patience.
seems, that this topicgives me a pretext to put up some old pics.
when i had neither enough track, nor enough money, i made track from very cheap curtain-rails.
How good it is indeed to see so many ideas for track. A. I. duPont made a railroad out of wood rails, green willow wood, and oak wood wheels for his Hagley power Mills along the Brandywine. This prevented sparks which could lead to a massive explosion.
If the proper time is taken in building good trackage then the train really doesn't know what it's running on. I once met a fellow who was rummaging through a salvage yard looking for steel that he could use for a railroad out on his farm in west central Nebraska. He found some and made a system that linked his barns, feedlots, and silos. He used a modified ATV and used four wheeled wheel barrels for carts.
Yankee ingenuity at it's best. I took a few lessons from him in the process.
tgood
If the proper time is taken in building good trackage then the train really doesn't know what it's running on. I once met a fellow who was rummaging through a salvage yard looking for steel that he could use for a railroad out on his farm in west central Nebraska. He found some and made a system that linked his barns, feedlots, and silos. He used a modified ATV and used four wheeled wheel barrels for carts.
Yankee ingenuity at it's best. I took a few lessons from him in the process.
tgood
For the time, effort, and cost..
I am not sure how it would stand-up to use outside? Thermal expansion would be very different between the metal rail-head and the plastic track. Water would get into any small gaps, and the first freeze would push the joint apart at these points..
I reckon ?two seasons? if you were lucky???
If using LGB loco's.. They have lighting sockets into which you can feed power.
For a similar outlay, you could have one van with batteries and a RC receiver.. This could be used behind any loco, plugged into the lighting sockets.
No track cleaning / joint / continuity problems. Minimal modification to loco's (unless you are visiting a powered track with them). Biggest downside - How long will the plastic track last outside?
I am not sure how it would stand-up to use outside? Thermal expansion would be very different between the metal rail-head and the plastic track. Water would get into any small gaps, and the first freeze would push the joint apart at these points..
I reckon ?two seasons? if you were lucky???
If using LGB loco's.. They have lighting sockets into which you can feed power.
For a similar outlay, you could have one van with batteries and a RC receiver.. This could be used behind any loco, plugged into the lighting sockets.
No track cleaning / joint / continuity problems. Minimal modification to loco's (unless you are visiting a powered track with them). Biggest downside - How long will the plastic track last outside?
I have adapted my New Bright plastic track to LGB track quite successfully. Most of my plastic track is in almost constant shade provided by a huge American ash. As far as the joints go I depend on the plastic joints plugging into the LBG track after modifying the connectors. Since I am not energizing the track but running on battery power I have had no real problems with my plastic spur lines and storage sidings. A good coat of high quality UV rated paint will protect it from the sun. I use Rust-Oleum flat red primer but first I coat it with a coat of self etching Rust-Oleum grey primer.
As Hunter would say "Works for Me."
Cheers,
tgood
As Hunter would say "Works for Me."
Cheers,
tgood
Any chance you could post a picture of your modifications? I'm curious how long your UV coatings last.
-bbbb
I will post some photos in a few days.
This is how I adapted the new Bright track to LGB track
1, remove a streight section of LGB brass track from it's ties, sleepers.
2, heat the ends with a propane torch---don't need to get it very hot
3, slide the heated section onto the corresponding plastic end and remove quickly. Note the plastic track is ABS plastic.
4, after it cools clean any plastic from the LGB track and see how it fits.
Note: after a few attempts you'll get the hang of it.
As far as protecting the plastic track a good coat of brown. black, grey or whatever of UV rated rust oleum will protect as long as the paint is on the plastic.
As an added feature to secure the plastic to the brass I add a dab of super glue gel.
I first add it to the plastic track wait until the clue is beginning to gel and then slide it onto the LGB track. It is easily removed when the glue is fully set up. so don't worry.
Hope this is helpful.
tgood
All Aboard,
tgood
This is how I adapted the new Bright track to LGB track
1, remove a streight section of LGB brass track from it's ties, sleepers.
2, heat the ends with a propane torch---don't need to get it very hot
3, slide the heated section onto the corresponding plastic end and remove quickly. Note the plastic track is ABS plastic.
4, after it cools clean any plastic from the LGB track and see how it fits.
Note: after a few attempts you'll get the hang of it.
As far as protecting the plastic track a good coat of brown. black, grey or whatever of UV rated rust oleum will protect as long as the paint is on the plastic.
As an added feature to secure the plastic to the brass I add a dab of super glue gel.
I first add it to the plastic track wait until the clue is beginning to gel and then slide it onto the LGB track. It is easily removed when the glue is fully set up. so don't worry.
Hope this is helpful.
tgood
All Aboard,
tgood
That's very interesting. I didn't know that New Bright track is ABS. I wanted to merge some New Bright track with RC Playmobil plastic track. A lot of playmobil stuff is also ABS (though the Playmobil track is polypropylene and supposedly UV and weather resistant, and a lot more durable). I think I already know how to merge the two plastic tracks. I just don't want the New Bright track to melt in the sun, and am worried about what it might do in the winter. I don't have any LGB track yet, but I do have a bit of Bachmann electric track, and I suppose your method for LGB should also work for that.
-bbbb
Last edited:
The way you can determine PVC vs ABS plastic is by the solvent used to "weld" them together. Another way is how they soften when heated. PVC will, when heated will get soft but not stringy as opposed to ABS. When cutting ABS it tends to melt back together as the warm blade cuts it no so with PVC. ABS is softer and more plyable then PVC. That's why ABS is used in plastic toys as opposed to PVC which is used in pipe of all kinds. Many years ago pipe was made out of ABS but it was against code to glue. weld, ABS to PVC
PVC comes in schedule 20 for light weight, drain pipe, 40 for domestic water and waste use and 60 for heavyweight work like piping in around swimming pools.
Black Polypropylene pipe used for irrigation can not be ,welded, but must be clamped. It has a slippery surface with is ideal for minimal friction loss in pressurized liquids. You can heat it to slip onto the barbed fitting to achieve a tighter seal when clamping. This process also allows you to force undersize pipe onto larger barbed, ribbed fittings.
It is true that ABS plastic will soften in the sun and can even warp out of shape. PVC can lay in the sun and won't show signs of softening until around 120F degrees.
You just had lession 101 in plastic Haz-Mat class
Hope this info is helpful.
All Aboard,
tgood
PS I might add that CPVC pipe is for drinking water and can stand a much higher hot water temperature.
as they have different expansion and contraction properties.
ABS pipe was black and PVC is either orange, fire sprinkler pipe, white for fresh water and beige for waste or vent pipe. However: this is not a given rule but a good guideline.PVC comes in schedule 20 for light weight, drain pipe, 40 for domestic water and waste use and 60 for heavyweight work like piping in around swimming pools.
Black Polypropylene pipe used for irrigation can not be ,welded, but must be clamped. It has a slippery surface with is ideal for minimal friction loss in pressurized liquids. You can heat it to slip onto the barbed fitting to achieve a tighter seal when clamping. This process also allows you to force undersize pipe onto larger barbed, ribbed fittings.
It is true that ABS plastic will soften in the sun and can even warp out of shape. PVC can lay in the sun and won't show signs of softening until around 120F degrees.
You just had lession 101 in plastic Haz-Mat class
Hope this info is helpful.
All Aboard,
tgood
PS I might add that CPVC pipe is for drinking water and can stand a much higher hot water temperature.
Last edited:
I don't want to go on about the pitfalls of plastic products. But must warn all about inhaling the fumes from such plastic. When burned it produces a hydrochloric acid. This byproduct, when inhaled attacks the lungs and the lungs respond by producing liquid to dilute the toxin. But this only aggravates the situation. One can inhale enough to literally drown on you own fluid in your lungs.
Many years ago Firefighters never wore their SCBA when fighting car fires. No one knew the dangers of all that vinyl in autos producing the deadly hydrochloric acid. Until FF's began showing signs of cancer.
We only wore SCBA in confined spaces like house fires. So today take a lesson from today's FF's and either don't breathe this poison or wear SCBA. That's why you see FF's fully suited up for ANY fire.
I pass this on as I don't want any innocent hobbyist getting sick or worst cancer from inhaling fumes from their plastic models.
Follow the FF's motto. Stay Safe
tgood
Many years ago Firefighters never wore their SCBA when fighting car fires. No one knew the dangers of all that vinyl in autos producing the deadly hydrochloric acid. Until FF's began showing signs of cancer.
We only wore SCBA in confined spaces like house fires. So today take a lesson from today's FF's and either don't breathe this poison or wear SCBA. That's why you see FF's fully suited up for ANY fire.
I pass this on as I don't want any innocent hobbyist getting sick or worst cancer from inhaling fumes from their plastic models.
Follow the FF's motto. Stay Safe
tgood
I'm looking forward to those photos, as I'm considering doing the same thing. Did you have to scrub the plastic track before applying the first coat of self etching primer?
-bbbb
Depends how old the track is.. Paint will always stick better to weathered surface.. - Though you will know that!
If it was new, then I would give it a good scrub..
I just wipe it down to get the dust/dirt off. Two coats of self etching primer applied about five minutes apart or when first coat is dry will do it. The stuff dries very quickly. A plus when doing a lot of track.
I tried plastic primer paint with less than satisfactory results. New Bright track seems to take the grey self etching primer quite well. ABS plastic is different than PVC or CPVC plastic.
I tried plastic primer paint with less than satisfactory results. New Bright track seems to take the grey self etching primer quite well. ABS plastic is different than PVC or CPVC plastic.
That Copper Tape is also used in Dolls Houses for Lighting Circuits, available in Dolls House Emporiums and varying other Craft Type Shops. Also very good for plant pot that has Hostas in. 2 circles if this stuff keep them well at bay though not entirely as there are always eggs inside before you use this! I think yhey get a sharpe electric shock from the Copper!