Piko Switch Drive/Supplementary Switch Question

[Madman]

I need to take a closer look on the bench at this. I was working at installing a Piko 35265 Supplementary switch onto a Piko 35271 switch drive today. I removed the top plate from the switch drive, near the end, by removing one screw that holds it in place. Then I inserted the supplementary switch into the switch drive and secured it with the plate and screw that are part of the switch drive. It isn't a very secure fit. And when I tried the switch drive the supplementary switch would not light the signal I have wired through it, unless I pressed on the supplementary switch. And then only intermittently.

Anyone familiar with these?

 

[nicebutdim]

I'm not sure if they are similar in any way to LGB motors and switches, but some of them require the motor being held in the middle position as the switch is installed. The motor won't operate the microswitches correctly if in one position or the other as the switch is pushed on. Again I'm not sure if this applies to the Piko motors but may be worth a try.

 

[Madman]

I had a chance to assemble a set, on the bench. There is a rubber gasket that the supplementary switch is supposed to fit into. The gasket is part of the switch drive. If your not being careful, the gasket can be compressed rather than slipping over the S.S. This keeps the S.S. slightly outward, so the throw bar doesn't push on the DPDT switch arms with enough pressure.

I am new to Piko switch drives. They certainly have water infiltration covered. They have gaskets coming out the Wazoo.

 

[idlemarvel]

I know this thread is 2 years old but I have the same kind of problem, but I'm not sure the same solution (if it is a solution) applies. I have 4 Piko points, 3 x R5 and 1 x R1, with Piko point motors 35271 and each has a 35265 relay switch attached. On the bench (relay attached to point motor) they work fine, but once you fit the point motors to the points in situ, the constraints of the point throw limit the amount which the point motor bar moves, so it does not always trigger the switch. This seems to be worse for the point thrown position, the straight position seems more reliable. As a crude workaround I bent the switch levers (see picture) which improves the reliability, but as I am trying to automate my layout the reliability is still not good enough. In essence I am disappointed with the reliability and build quality (there is some wobble in some of the micro switches) although as Dan said they are certainly waterproof. Does anyone have experience with the LGB equivalent product 12070? Thanks for any feedback.

 

[WillemD]

Did you remove the little spring between the rails (underneath the plastic cover thingy)? PIKO recommends removing it if the switch drive is equipped with the relay switch. See the manual: http://www.gscalenews.com/pdf/piko-g/35271m.pdf

 

[idlemarvel]

Thanks Willem. I have tried it with and without the point spring, it doesn't seem to make any difference.

 

[Madman]

Dave, when I was running track power and used LGB point drives for alot of automation, I found hardly any issues with them. The supplementary switches fit well and worked well, even the older 1203 version. As I mentioned and as you have quoted me, the Piko waterproofing was certainly well thought out.

Since I have moved onto battery power, six years now, I have removed all of my LGB and Piko point motors and replaced them with simple springs. The only issue now is if a piece of rolling stock is not weighted enough. I have added weight to all of my field railway stock. It's much simpler to keep the springs clear of any debris than to service switch drives.

I am forever simplifying things in my garden railway. Kind of goes with my brain.....LOL