Opening LGB 28001 Rugen 0-8-0T

idlemarvel

idlemarvel

Registered
13 Jul 2015
1,474
14
Ascot
I have just acquired an LGB 28001 which is DCC ready but not fitted. I want to fit a Massoth LS sound decoder but I can't get into the beast. I have removed the main screws from the base and the body shell almost comes off but there seems to be something in the middle of the boiler preventing it, I assume some hidden screw. Can someone who has done this before let me know the secret or point me at some dismantling instructions? I hope the screw is not under the motor block as that looks like a pig to remove. Thanks in advance, Dave
 
muns

muns

Moderator
Staff member
GSC Moderator
Ralphmp

Ralphmp

Registered
6 Jan 2010
749
0
Herts
idlemarvel

idlemarvel

Registered
13 Jul 2015
1,474
14
Ascot
Thanks guys I should have said I already have both of those documents but they are not helping. There are some screws marked 119 on page 3 of the exploded parts diagram which seem to be the culprit but to get to those I would have to remove the motor block which I have already tried but stopped as it looked to be far too complicated. I really need someone who's done this before to advise. I think Zerogee Zerogee has done this as he said how difficult it was in a post in 2012! :)
 
idlemarvel

idlemarvel

Registered
13 Jul 2015
1,474
14
Ascot
Done it! The trick is to remove the regulator arms from the top of the valve gear.

For future reference, from the exploded parts diagram you have to undo screws K, L , M, N, O, P, Q, R on page 3 and then gently prise out parts 51 and 52 from page 2 to release the valve gear. Then the top comes off. Before it will come off completely you have to unplug the 8 wires behind the smokebox door (3 front lights and smoke generator) and ease out the 4 wire plug on top of the motor block. Not too hard when you know that secret.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ralphmp
Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
16,380
0
North Essex
Glad you got there in the end, Dave - I had to open my 28001.8 (the .8 suffix seems to indicate factory chipping) in order to replace the archaic 55020 chip with a Massoth L.... I don't quite recall how I eventually did it, but I do remember that it was the Devil's own job to separate the boiler from the cab, and almost as much of a b*gger to get it all back together again afterwards!

If I ever have to get back inside it again, or do another 0-8-0, your notes will be a great help! :)

Jon.
 
idlemarvel

idlemarvel

Registered
13 Jul 2015
1,474
14
Ascot
Separating the boiler and cab was not too bad. As you said in your 2102 posting it is easier if you remove all the pipes, valves and other gubbins first, then it is a question of gentle brute force, there are no screws involved. You have to do it gently as the wires for the cab and rear lights and 4-way switch are not very long. The weight in the boiler is held in by 3 screws under the boiler. It then slides out towards the cab end. The analog circuit board is attached to the weight by another 3 screws. The board has the DCC 6 pin plug and 4 track/motor pins so you could connect a decoder to the existing board but I will take it out. In the cab there is the 4 way switch which is connected to the board by a grey 4 pin plug, and a small circuit board which handles the rear lights, cab lights and external power socket (the square kind). That is connected to the main board by a black 5 wire plug. I will keep that board so I need to work out which wire does what, but no need for the 4 way switch.
Even though the 28001 is not a sound equipped loco they allow for the upgrade as the firebox frontage unclips to reveal a 57mm speaker enclosure and grill, and the smaller dome has provision for an external volume control, both of which will be very handy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zerogee
Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
16,380
0
North Essex
Interestingly my 28001.8 (that's what the box label says) IS factory sound-equipped, with a Serial sound board. As I didn't want to disturb that too much, I simply unplugged the old 55020 from the board and plugged an L in its place.

Jon.
 
idlemarvel

idlemarvel

Registered
13 Jul 2015
1,474
14
Ascot
I have finished the decoder install so I have done a write-up.

Digitizing LGB 28001 Rugen 0-8-0T

The loco as shipped is “DCC ready” in that it has the 4 pins exposed for track and motor, onto which you can plug a Massoth L or LS in this case, and a 6 pin socket for lights and smoke.

To install a decoder, you have to disassemble the loco. I used the exploded parts diagram referenced in an earlier posting as a guide. The page numbers listed below reference that document. Remove the boiler front (#17) and unplug the front lights and smoke generator wiring. You don’t have to do this but I also removed all the piping, levers, dome covers, chimney, bell and whistle so they wouldn’t get damaged in the dismantling process.

There are eight screws labelled K, L, M, N O, P, Q and R on page 3 and two more screws securing the front of the boiler labelled I on page 2. The trick to finally remove the body from the chassis is to prise out the pieces #51 and #52 (regulator arm pivots I think) and ease out the regulator rods (labelled S and T on page 4). Now the combined cab and boiler should lift off. There will still be some wiring connecting them which is the 4 wire harness connecting the circuit board to the motor block. Unplug either end of that cable and you should be able to separate the cab and boiler from the chassis. Beware that the cab weight may fall out at this point!

103530_02132d1288b92fc3875fc6af43d3657f.jpg


Now you can separate the cab from the boiler. The trick here is to ease the cab sides apart slightly or squeeze the boiler surround to release a notch in the cab surround, see pictures below. There is a 5 strand cable for the rear lights, cab light and multi-function socket, connecting the cab to the circuit board inside the boiler, and a 4 strand cable for the 4 way switch. There are some more screws under the boiler to release the boiler from the black footplate and release the weight inside the boiler. That weight is heavy, do not let it fall! You can then unplug the 5 strand cable and 4 way switch cable from the circuit board and separate the cab from the boiler.

103532_0ce50349ad481ff89623d80bde16b4a3.jpg


103535_fc46e107f2cf561e526793a3a0b939cf.jpg


I removed the circuit board, see picture below. You can connect a Massoth L or LS decoder to the 4 motor/track pins and the lighting circuits to the 6 pin socket provided on the circuit board but I decided to wire up the LS decoder directly. I did reuse the 8 pins and the end of the circuit and the 5 pin socket by cutting them out of the board, shown on the picture below. This was so I could leave all the lighting and smoke generator wiring in place.

103536_afa0320b3f8fe3ddb0eeff5d2f794970.jpg

I installed a 57mm circular 8 ohm speaker behind the firebox speaker grill provided. I fitted a Massoth firebox glow LED light fitting behind the hole left by the 4 way switch which was no longer required. Slightly odd place but the speaker prevents you installing it in the “proper” place. I used the lighting and function cables provided with the Massoth L and soldered the ends of those to the bits of circuit board I had recovered from the main board. I also fitted a Massoth volume control under the steam dome, held in place with black tack.

The rear lights, multi-function socket and cab light were connected to the decoder light socket, with the multi-function socket using the front light connection. The 5 wires on the plug from the cab are (from left to right) cab -, lamps -, +, and + and – for the multi-function socket. The two + were connected together (so the 5 wires became 4) and then connected to the 4 socket lighting plug on the Massoth LS decoder. The front lights were connected to function output A4 (set by function key 0 forward only), the smoke generator to function output A1 (function key 7), and firebox light to A3 (function key 4). The default voltage output is full track voltage so it is very important to reduce this 5v (value 5) in the decoder settings before you use the lights or smoke generator!

Before I reassembled everything I tested the chassis / motor with the decoder, see picture below. You need to place the weights in position otherwise the chassis tips up without them.

103538_5481e3bdcaea1baced3b4a54fd7da7aa.jpg


I sawed off the driver figure after this picture, it was impossible to remove otherwise. Reassemble the loco in the reverse of the instructions above. I secured the decoder to the boiler weight using the 2 sided padded tape provided with the LS and then slid the weight into the boiler and secured with a screw. As Jon said it is a bit of a pig getting the wires inside without being trapped, especially with the speaker in the way, and not letting the cab weight fall out, but I’ve had worse to do.

In terms of decoder settings I did not have to change much from the default basic settings apart from the voltage for the lighting and function outputs. This model definitely needs back EMF (or PI Load Control as Massoth call it) especially if you try and start the loco on an R1 curve, due to the friction on the four axles. The default PI Load Control settings seem to be okay and give a smooth if slow start from standstill.

For lighting I used standard F0 for directional light, which also switches on the cab light and multi-function socket power (forward only). I set F4 for the firebox light which I also used for coal shovelling sound, see below.

The Massoth LS sound was of a basic steam loco (dampflok). The sounds provided in slots 1-12 are listed below and I have shown the function keys I have assigned them to.
1 long whistle F1
2 brake sound (automatic)
3 three short whistles (Zp 3) F8
4 conductor whistle “all aboard” F3
5 air pump (fast) F9
6 generator F10
7 water pump F11
8 coal shovelling F4
9 “tickets please” F13
10 air pump (slow) F14
11 bell F2
12 start whistle (automatic)

F5 is used to turn side cylinder noise on/off and F6 to turn sound on/off. F7 is used for the smoke generator and F8 for switching /shunting speed, which also sounds the three short whistle signal.

Once assembled and tested I added a few cosmetic touches. I replaced the “brass” lamp rings with black ones (from modell-land) and painted the bell, whistle and valve wheels matt black. I painted the air brake pipe surrounds red, and the cab steps black. For some reason LGB paint the yellow electrical junction box panels on the cab end but not the front end, so I painted those. Small touches but I think it helps.

Here is the model compared to the prototype. I might try painting the wheel rims red and weathering the shiny valve gear and coupling rods at a later date.

103540_b2f691b652a72ac32c97666f1a3f06e8.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Henri
MaybachMD

MaybachMD

Registered
18 May 2018
14
0
61
Bromley, Kent
I acquired a 28001 yesterday which was causing problems for my ESU ECOS. I couldn’t get inside to have a look, so looked here and of course here is the answer brilliantly explained. Problems solved. Thank you very much.

Simon Paine
 
MaybachMD

MaybachMD

Registered
18 May 2018
14
0
61
Bromley, Kent
Dave

You also mention the black lamp rims from Modell-Land. They charge 18 Euros postage, and will not send them by letter. Do you know any other way to get them?

Thanks

Simon
 
idlemarvel

idlemarvel

Registered
13 Jul 2015
1,474
14
Ascot
Hi Simon,
Thanks for your comments. Ref the black lamp rims, the postage charge from Modell-land is a well versed issue when you only want to buy a few bits and pieces. The only answers are a) wait until you need more stuff or b) see if anyone else on the forum wants to combine an order - this does crop up from time to time. I don't know of any other supplier.
 
MaybachMD

MaybachMD

Registered
18 May 2018
14
0
61
Bromley, Kent
Alternatively does anyone need anything from Modell- Land to share the postage?

Simon
 
MaybachMD

MaybachMD

Registered
18 May 2018
14
0
61
Bromley, Kent
Dave

Posted my last post before I saw your reply.

I have bought quite a bit from them so their inflexibility is a bit disappointing,

Simon
 
MaybachMD

MaybachMD

Registered
18 May 2018
14
0
61
Bromley, Kent
I bit the bullet and paid the postage. Bought a few odds and ends. The lamp bezels are amazing. What a transformstion. Thanks again.

Simon
117711_c6ce2f111e0330b9a707bffd3b2ddfbf.jpeg
 
idlemarvel

idlemarvel

Registered
13 Jul 2015
1,474
14
Ascot
Agreed, small touches but they make it much more like the prototype. Nice job.