North Pilton Works Signal Box

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
Country flag
Well, why do I want a signal box - I don't really, but I bought this kit at the Peterborough show as a substitute for a Pola building I'd seen in their listings.

The kit is £36 against the Pola building at £58 (£48 at Glendale Junction) and I bought a set of benches for £4.80 as opposed to Pola benches at £13.50 (at Glendale) - that's a whopping 30% saving.

You get an awful lot of kit for your money.

If you want a signal box, it comes with an additional raised floor, a working 8-lever frame, a desk, two chairs, a telephone, a stove and a lighting kit. Not bad :clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:

I wanted a refreshment building at the end of the platform, and am planning on Sadie's Sodas - so I don't want the raised floor or the lever frame.

The kits don't fall together in 5 minutes, but a bit of care and time is well rewarded.
 
I think it's a game of two halves.

The key for wooden buildings out of doors is to get the painting right, so that the entire woodwork is protected. However, I'm using a waterproof wood glue (Titebond 2) and that works best gluing wood to wood.

So, I think I'm going to glue the interior detail in place, then paint the interior, after that I'll fix the roof and paint the inside of that.

Then we'll paint the outside, and glue in the glazing.

Progress so far

PICT0002.JPG PICT0003.JPG
 
Looking good - it will be interesting to see how the ply holds up outside.
 
Looking good - it will be interesting to see how the ply holds up outside.
That's the bit - the essential thing is to get the paint soaking in, and completely covering.

The instructions suggest a thinned coat of external gloss, but I have some weathershield primer/preservative left over, and I'm tempted to use that as a first coat.

I'm not keen on using weathershield top cost as it's very thick and viscous, and I'll lose the laser etched detailing - so still thinking about the top coats :wondering::wondering::wondering:
 
That's the bit - the essential thing is to get the paint soaking in, and completely covering.

The instructions suggest a thinned coat of external gloss, but I have some weathershield primer/preservative left over, and I'm tempted to use that as a first coat.

I'm not keen on using weathershield top cost as it's very thick and viscous, and I'll lose the laser etched detailing - so still thinking about the top coats :wondering::wondering::wondering:

Looks an interesting kit - got any dimensions?
 
That sounds a little small??
10 ft x 7ft 6 ins in 16mm:1ft

However, as the other buildings are 1:22.5 on a 15mm:1ft railroad...................


.............my head hurts o_Oo_Oo_O

But it'll look OK - trust me :D:D:D
 
I've now turned my attention to the benches while I watch paint dry :(:(

I've cut them down in height to suit the reduced scale of my buildings and populace :cool::cool:

PICT0002.JPG
 
Can u lenghten my legs please ..
 
Don't know about lengthen legs Mike but if you drink lots of JD you'll get leg less!
 
Don't know about lengthen legs Mike but if you drink lots of JD you'll get leg less!
Now, while i have been using every means possible ever known to man to seal the plywood, I haven't resorted to whisky yet - not sure about long term resilience to weather.

I have used:

  • a good preservative primer
  • plenty of paint (without filing in the laser etched detail
  • loads of paint in the nooks and crannies
  • brush painted varnish for the laser etched details, and any obvious holes
  • top coat of spray Simoniz clear lacquer - LACQUER not LIQOUR :shake::shake:

Now all we have to do is wait and see what mother nature does - I could be tempted to bring it indoors over winter :think::think:

I'm still finishing it off - be ready in two or three days - then have to agree the precise siting - I wanted it with windows facing the road, and back to the track - very western, very proper, but Green River shanty town is generally viewed from the side that would be trackside and thus backside




Still thinking :wasntme::wasntme::wasntme::wasntme::wasntme::wasntme::wasntme::wasntme:
 
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