Newbie attempting battery conversation of an MTS Schoema

[Clive Tucker]

Hi all, as I mentioned in my intro thread I am looking to convert at least some of my locos to battery, possibly with RC as well. I've had a quick look through some of the threads, and I am fairly comfortable with the idea of doing such a thing myself, but the stumbling block as I see it is sourcing the necessary kit: rechargeable battery pack, charging socket, fuse with holder, suitable switch for changing direction, voltage control for setting speed... Not so long ago I might have obtained it all from maplin, but of course history has overtaken me in that respect. So, can anyone recommend a one stop shop where I might het these items.

My initial thought is that I would try and get my head round the practicalities of battery conversion, before graduating to RC conversion - unless someone can convince me to go for the 'big bang' approach - not literally, hopefully!

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

 

[Zerogee]

In case he's reluctant to blow his own trumpet on here, I'd suggest our very own PhilP.....

http://rctrains.co.uk/

Just one suggestion, there are several other possibilities out there.

Jon.

 

[Zerogee]

Also, you mention converting SOME of your locos to battery - so I assume you want to continue to use track power as well.... if that's correct, are you looking at analogue DC or full DCC for the track-powered stuff?

Jon.

 

[BakerJohn]

I've spent a lot of time talking to Phil and he's helped me with my Forney conversion - which I am in the process of completing. My own blog posts on the subject:
https://leedshillrailroad.weebly.com/my-projects/intro-to-srrl-forney
https://leedshillrailroad.weebly.com/my-projects/re-wiring-my-forney-part-2

In addition, I've used Keith's blog as a reference. He's also in the UK so perhaps some of what he used for Toby would work for you:
http://sandwellvalleyrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2015/02/toby-ex-works.html

Part of the reason I chose to use Phil's components (RC Trains) is their small size. My Forney does not have a lot of space to fit large circuit boards. I would recommend using an auto-reset fuse, as I have in my wiring diagram, for your locos. As far as voltage control goes if not using RC, I cannot help you. But, overall, completely transitioning to RC really isn't that hard one you have an idea of what you're doing.

 

[Clive Tucker]

Thanks, jon, for your replies. I guess being a cautious soul I am hedging my bets to some extent - also, I couldn't rule out the possibility of getting invited to someone else's line where there might be track power - well, you never know your luck!

At the moment most of my locos are MTS chipped, plus I have the original analogue controller from the LGB starter set still operational.

Thanks again, much appreciated.

 

[Clive Tucker]

Thanks too, to John W! My previous reply must have crossed with your own.

 

[Zerogee]

Thanks, jon, for your replies. I guess being a cautious soul I am hedging my bets to some extent - also, I couldn't rule out the possibility of getting invited to someone else's line where there might be track power - well, you never know your luck!

At the moment most of my locos are MTS chipped, plus I have the original analogue controller from the LGB starter set still operational.

Thanks again, much appreciated.

The reason I asked about that, Clive, is that I am using MOSTLY track-powered DCC (Massoth) but I have also built a couple of battery-powered locos for much the same reasons as you mention - for visiting lines that may not have any track power, as well as having them handy for a quick run when the track is dirty!
For this reason, I have been experimenting with a couple of locos that will run almost anywhere - track power on DC or DCC, and battery power when needed but still with full control over all the DCC functions - you might find these threads interesting......
https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/building-the-multi-power-loco.309298/
https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/multi-power-loco-mark-ii-this-time-its-steam.309393/

This may be a lot more complicated than you want to do (though it sounds more complex than it actually is, the connecting up of everything is really quite simple), but for my personal use it does just what I need, which is sticking with DCC control whether that is via track power or wirelessly with battery power.

Jon.

 

[dunnyrail]

Thanks too, to John W! My previous reply must have crossed with your own.

Look at some of my battery conversion threads. I have mostly been using Aristo Crest and Fosworks ( formerly Peter Spoerer). Though I do intend to try one of Phills offers soon, you know what they say money is round to go around and I do beleive in trying to support all of our Micro Suppliers just as I support Micro Breweries and Pubs!

 

[PhilP]

Look at some of my battery conversion threads. I have mostly been using Aristo Crest and Fosworks ( formerly Peter Spoerer). Though I do intend to try one of Phills offers soon, you know what they say money is round to go around and I do beleive in trying to support all of our Micro Suppliers just as I support Micro Breweries and Pubs!

Beer and trains..
One of the reasons for choosing Swindon today!

 

[Clive Tucker]

Thanks all for your help so far.

I've posted here a couple of pics of my intended subject for conversion:

Here's the underside:

I know it has MTS built in, although not sure which version.

 

[PhilP]

A nice, easy 'D' motor-block..
Does this model have two screws on the front vertical face of the bonnet? - If so, you can undo them, and discover what is in the beast.. My guess will be a lump of lead, and a LGB onboard decoder..

 

[Clive Tucker]

A nice, easy 'D' motor-block..
Does this model have two screws on the front vertical face of the bonnet? - If so, you can undo them, and discover what is in the beast.. My guess will be a lump of lead, and a LGB onboard decoder..

It does indeed:

 

[dunnyrail]

Thanks all for your help so far.

I've posted here a couple of pics of my intended subject for conversion:

Here's the underside:

I know it has MTS built in, although not sure which version.

Perfect candidate, reasonable amount of room inside for Batteries and other gear.

On/off switch between the 2 sets of steps at the rear and the charging socket in the same place.
Strip out the Circuit Board pull out the 4 way socket to the motor.
Take out the sliding Pickup and Plug Pickups to the wheels.

You now have a staring point to install the battery setup. Two of those pins that you pulled out of the chassis go to the motor, the other two went to the pickups. Quick check with a couple of power leads will prove the motor then you are all ready to go.

This by the way is my standard install of Battery Power others may suggest keeping the circuit board but I am not sure how that would work with a DCC one.

Oh final tip, take digi pictures of all of your pull apart and keep,the bits in a labelled plastic box in case you ever decide to do a reverse engineer of your batteryisation!

 

[Clive Tucker]

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

This morning I wielded my trusty LGB screwdriver, and got the larger bonnet off, revealing this:

Inside the cab, besides the naff driver figure there is a 3-way slide switch, which is devilish difficult to get to. It could however be made more accessible if the cab roof was more readily removable:

Or it could be just quietly forgotten about...

 

[PhilP]

I would forget that switch for now..

Assuming you just want the loco to run, and we can ignore lights for a 'fast and dirty' lash-up..
Ease the connectors out of that board (LGB small onboard decoder). - I mark the socket and corresponding plug with dots of marker to show which is which.. 3-way is the switch. The black-wired 2-way are lights, and the red/black is the rear auxiliary power socket. The four wires soldered to the board end go to the motor-block.

Drop the block, and remove the 4-way plug. You can then remove the decoder from the loco..
The motor connections will be the outer two pins, and it is these you need to connect your wiring to.

Simplest install would be a 6 x AA battery holder, PP3 snap connector, switch (sticky pad to inside of cab, so toggle is in open window) and connection to motor.
Reverse motor wires if loco runs backwards.

You could make it more sophisticated with a DPDT centre-off switch. - This would give you forward/reverse, as well as off.
This would be more for a permanent installation, then just a loco running round..
Next would be a proper wiring loom (for a final, permanent installation).. Charge socket, fuse and the like.

I am guessing you know a lot of this, but it might help someone else who stumbles on it later..

PhilP.

 

[Zerogee]

OK, that's what LGB call their "small onboard loco decoder"; If you're going the RC route, then I would remove that carefully (when removing the little white plugs from the board, pull gently on the plug itself with some tweezers or finenosed pliers, DON'T pull on the wires, they WILL come out of the plug.....) and either put it in your bits box for re-use in a future DCC conversion, or else offer it for sale - someone will probably give you twenty quid or so for it.

Jon.

 

[Deleted member 4232]

Moved

 

[Clive Tucker]

Drop the block, and remove the 4-way plug

Thanks for this Phil, however I am struggling with removing the motor block. I thought it would just be enough to remove what look like 2 securing brackets underneath, but obviously I am wrong in this:

What else must I remove in order to release the motor block please?

 

[PhilP]

I *think* on this one, the big lump of plastic at the back-end comes out with the block.. - A long time since I pulled one of these apart..

There are sometimes parts of the coupling mountings which slip into oblong recesses on the ends of the block.. It can take a bit of jiggling to get them out..

Yep, that is it..

http://www.champex-linden.de/lgb_pr...A063442A67485256EE0007059BB/$FILE/23600-1.pdf

Page 5 shows the block with the plastic lumps on the end..

 

[Zerogee]

As Phil says, even when you've removed all the screws, the block can still be a little bit tight in the chassis - give it a gentle tug with a bit of wiggling (oo-er missus....)!

Jon.