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That is certainly the case with a 55016p handset.
need help with MTS 3 and mfx decoder
- Thread starter stevedenver
- Start date
stevedenver
Registered
thanks
still futzing....
its not upgraded, its a 55015p,
still futzing....
its not upgraded, its a 55015p,
Greg Elmassian
Guest
I'm going to give up explaining after this.
You could do an after-purchase upgrade from a regular system to the "P" both the command station and the 55015....
Was just wondering if it was ORIGINALLY purchased and received as the original system or the later P type.
Early MTSII "P" equipment, was identified by the separate black sticker with the white "P" - later production versions had the "p" suffix on the part number, eg: 55016p
Also notice this system can only do 14 speed steps. I would be surprised if your MFX decoder was set to 14 speed steps.
I hope my statements are clear this time.
Greg
You could do an after-purchase upgrade from a regular system to the "P" both the command station and the 55015....
Was just wondering if it was ORIGINALLY purchased and received as the original system or the later P type.
Early MTSII "P" equipment, was identified by the separate black sticker with the white "P" - later production versions had the "p" suffix on the part number, eg: 55016p
Also notice this system can only do 14 speed steps. I would be surprised if your MFX decoder was set to 14 speed steps.
I hope my statements are clear this time.
Greg
craigwrdouglas2
Registered
This may have been answered already but from memory :
L is Operating a single Locomotive
D is for Operating a Dual Headed locomotive pair
P is for programming, e.g., you can program 2 locomotives to operate as a pair e.g. locos 02 and 10 could be D6, then control the pair of locomotives as a single unit through D6, it is covered briefly in the manual.
S is for operating Switches (or Points if you prefer as I do) this is operated through the 55025 switch modules.
stevedenver
Registered
greg
the handheld is a 55015p, as purchased. "p" is printed on the face "55015p"
the mts 3 has the black and white p sticker on the bottom. as purchased. the box says MTS 3.
i am using the LGB 6A AC power source designed for the MTS.
both were purchased used.
as for speed steps, i dont know the set up, but, compared to analog, i am very pleased.
when i did get things going digitally, the locos started smoothly and very slowly, at least compared to my analog throttle control.
even with a slow rise, (am using bridgewerks 10A and 15A controllers, i find that the Buhler motors, in analog, tend to jump a touch even with the most gradual rise. not so the with the digital throttle control.
as its crimbo, been scrambling with last minute stuff.
Denver is headed for extremely cold and unusually early arctic temperatures tonight and tomorrow, its supposed to be about -20F. Wind chill to minus 45F.!!!
That being the case, and being a neither weather wimp, nor an idiot, i have no intention of being out and about for more than a few minutes.
I should have time to check out the instructions to try again.
many thanks to all and your patience
the handheld is a 55015p, as purchased. "p" is printed on the face "55015p"
the mts 3 has the black and white p sticker on the bottom. as purchased. the box says MTS 3.
i am using the LGB 6A AC power source designed for the MTS.
both were purchased used.
as for speed steps, i dont know the set up, but, compared to analog, i am very pleased.
when i did get things going digitally, the locos started smoothly and very slowly, at least compared to my analog throttle control.
even with a slow rise, (am using bridgewerks 10A and 15A controllers, i find that the Buhler motors, in analog, tend to jump a touch even with the most gradual rise. not so the with the digital throttle control.
as its crimbo, been scrambling with last minute stuff.
Denver is headed for extremely cold and unusually early arctic temperatures tonight and tomorrow, its supposed to be about -20F. Wind chill to minus 45F.!!!
That being the case, and being a neither weather wimp, nor an idiot, i have no intention of being out and about for more than a few minutes.
I should have time to check out the instructions to try again.
many thanks to all and your patience
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craigwrdouglas2
Registered
If they are set at 14/28 speed steps, they are probably fine for most people [choices are 14/28/128]. if a train is too slow then you might want to change this, but otherwise it should be fine.
Most decoders have acceleration and deceleration settings that make the operation smoother. Typically these come with default settings that reach the new speed in 2 or 3 seconds, but you can change this to something like 20 seconds for some 'realistic' braking or switch it off all together if you prefer the more immediate feel.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
They MUST be set to 14 speed steps, that is all his setup will handle.
I agree, adding momentum will "smooth things out", but make your deceleration about half of your acceleration or you may not stop in time.
I agree, adding momentum will "smooth things out", but make your deceleration about half of your acceleration or you may not stop in time.
craigwrdouglas2
Registered
I had a similar setup before I bought a Massoth this summer. MTS 3 systems can both handle 14 and 28 speed steps, though I prefer 14 in operation. For MTS 2 they need to be 14 or the lights don't work, but he has MTS 3.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
MTSIII with his throttle will ONLY do 14 speed steps.... add a navigator and you can do 28/128.
His setup only does 14 speed steps as it is.
Funny thing, he asked same question in February 2013, and was thinking it was a QSI decoder...
www.gscalecentral.net
Almost 10 years later
Greg
His setup only does 14 speed steps as it is.
Funny thing, he asked same question in February 2013, and was thinking it was a QSI decoder...
QSI problems with LGB MTS III
After some embarrassing lack of function with my new C19/QSI Quntum combo at the local Essex meet. I managed to untangle why the MTSII (with LGB handset and Massoth Navigator) was having problems as it was set to serial, not parallel. So the MTS III and the loco then was fine and Dandy when the...
www.gscalecentral.net
Almost 10 years later
Greg
craigwrdouglas2
Registered
I should clarify, my point was that the MTS III can send speed values up to 14, but this can be used to control a locomotive set at either 14 or 28 speed steps. Where the loco is set to 28, you have more granular control over the lower speeds which helps with running trains on the same loop, but obviously you can only go as high as half speed. Typically I don't use the top half of the speed range very often - Sadly, I don't have the sweeping curves for this.
I always found serial operations with the sound functions to be erratic and unreliable. sometimes 8 would be interpreted as 2 ( e.g. a whistle) or 6 (switch sound off) Certainly that is solved with F-9 and switching back to parallel. Understanding the the F button on the controller is Controller function and not Locomotive function is probably the basis of the problems that most people have with this controller.
I always found serial operations with the sound functions to be erratic and unreliable. sometimes 8 would be interpreted as 2 ( e.g. a whistle) or 6 (switch sound off) Certainly that is solved with F-9 and switching back to parallel. Understanding the the F button on the controller is Controller function and not Locomotive function is probably the basis of the problems that most people have with this controller.
stevedenver
Registered
"When you have a loco called up, as indicted by its address being displayed, pressing "F" and "9" should toggle between serial and parallel for that loco address. I don't believe there is any indication of the mode. To operate one of the decoder functions only the function button, 1-8 or "Lights" (button 9) is pressed. Not the "F" button first. If the whistle blows for all the buttons, push "F" then "9" to toggle back to parallel then try again. You may have to push the "reverse direction" round button between the arrow buttons after pushing the "F" and "9" buttons to accept the change from serial to parallel but I don't believe this is necessary."
Last edited: Tuesday at 9:58 PM
Phil S
YOU REEKA (and Palisades)
LOL
This worked, im back in digital land!
i can now pollute my running area with gobs of synced smoke billowing from ALex Theimer Saxon 1K
For those thinking im an absolute get (and you may well have it nailed)
In digital mode, none of my MFX locos have the headlights on.
(And, the Alexander Theimer locomotive appears not to have a lighted firebox, an anomaly among the other 1Ks i own. WHen the firebox light didnt come on with the sync smoke, i wondered if it might be linked to lighting......alas , not.......for those that notice the firebox is not a mentioned feature of the loco, that IS the case, yet the firebox indeed has the LEDs in place......)
On my handheld 55015p, button "9" has a light icon.
I was periodically pushing the 9 and F-9 too, in an attempt to get the headlights on, and as such, was unknowingly toggling between serial and parallel, which i obviously didn't figure out or again stumble upon.
Many thanks.
soooooooooooooo
would the Massoth Navigator operate exactly the same as my 55015p?
(baby steps)
i am reluctant to throw money at another toy with which i have fits operating.....no less the Zimo, which i nearly bought a few weeks back, unless i can play with them......
Last edited: Tuesday at 9:58 PM
Phil S
YOU REEKA (and Palisades)
LOL
This worked, im back in digital land!
i can now pollute my running area with gobs of synced smoke billowing from ALex Theimer Saxon 1K
For those thinking im an absolute get (and you may well have it nailed)
In digital mode, none of my MFX locos have the headlights on.
(And, the Alexander Theimer locomotive appears not to have a lighted firebox, an anomaly among the other 1Ks i own. WHen the firebox light didnt come on with the sync smoke, i wondered if it might be linked to lighting......alas , not.......for those that notice the firebox is not a mentioned feature of the loco, that IS the case, yet the firebox indeed has the LEDs in place......)
On my handheld 55015p, button "9" has a light icon.
I was periodically pushing the 9 and F-9 too, in an attempt to get the headlights on, and as such, was unknowingly toggling between serial and parallel, which i obviously didn't figure out or again stumble upon.
Many thanks.
soooooooooooooo
would the Massoth Navigator operate exactly the same as my 55015p?
(baby steps)
i am reluctant to throw money at another toy with which i have fits operating.....no less the Zimo, which i nearly bought a few weeks back, unless i can play with them......
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Greg Elmassian
Guest
Craig, you CANNOT send 14 speed steps to a decoder set for 28.... won't expound here, but common newbie mistake... only 28/128 modes in the decoder will accept either and switch.
I won't belabor this, google it.
Steve!!! Great !!!
I won't belabor this, google it.
Steve!!! Great !!!
Diesel2000
Registered
CV29 needs to be changed on the locos with MFX decoders to set 14 speed steps in order for the lights to work. You likely want the value of 4 for CV29 on those (14 speed steps, short address, forward direction, analogue mode on).
6 is the default value for CV29 on LGB MSD3 MFX decoders. It has all the same states as 4 except is 28/128 speed steps instead of 14.
Great! -- now to change CV29 to "4" ala what Diesel2000 speaks of in post#33. (maybe it should be Post#666
). A careful reading of the 55015p manual will let you see the light forEdited to correct my grammer.
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Greg Elmassian
Guest
Great! -- now to change CV29 to "4" ala what Diesel2000 speaks of in post#33. (maybe it should be Post#666
Or as recommended by me in post #2 !!!! (a little sooner than post #33)
craigwrdouglas2
Registered
I switched from the MTS and 55015p system to the Massoth system (massoth navigator, wireless and Massoth 1210Z base unit) this summer. It doesn't work quite the same way and takes a bit of getting used to and quite a bit of setup[ I have 25 locos to enter] , I must admit. I do think it's a better system than the mts one and is still designed for garden operation. You do have to enter all your locomotives onto the system (and you can't have 2 number 3s, or at least with different settings).
When setting up a loco you configure the number, the name, the picture(150ish to chose from preloaded), which functions are active for that locomotive.
You can download the manual from their product page here 8134801 DiMAX Navigator 2.4GHz – Massoth Elektronik GmbH
Programming a loco is a lot easier with the Massoth system as it comes with it's own programming track output, though you will need the Massoth central station or the Piko one to programme with the Navigator.
Programming loco cvs with the 55015 Universal Remote is awkward to do (and iir can't deal with CVs over 99 which is where most of the sound configuration settings are these days)
Wireless range is a lot better - up to 100m, compared to around 10m in my garden with the 55015 on wireless. I think you need the Massoth receiver as well for wireless operation - this should just plug into the LGB bus,
The Piko system is also made by Massoth and is essentially a cut down version, but is a lot cheaper.
I'd been looking at the Massoth System for years before I eventually pulled the trigger. I agree, it's not easy when you can't try them out. I hope this account helps a little whatever you decide to do.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
And with the navigator, you can take a half step out of the stone ages, and use 28/128 speed steps, your CSIII supports it, your LGB throttles do not. (Fred Flintstone was apparently an honorary engineer at LGB)
Greg
Greg
Hi Greg, I don't see the CV29 change to 14 speed steps recommended in your post#2. You did recommend he turn off mfx. which is probably a good idea for Steve to follow up on, but this wont fix his lights. I believe setting CV50=2 will turn off mfx and leave DCC and analog DC active for the loco in question. STEVE - VERIFY THIS IN THE LOCO MANUAL BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGE!
Steve, One of the first decoder programming changes you should make is to change the loco address which is CV1 from 3 to some other number between 1 and 22. Chose a number not used by one of you other locos. Your 55015p limits you to 22 separate loco addresses which is another reason to consider a Massoth Navigator but that's for later. Get your speed steps/lights (CV29) and loco addresses (CV1) fixed first.
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