My disappointing Rugen

Paul M

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However, then I discovered that when I pushed the manual lever of the point so that the blade was hard against the rail, the Rugen took off, just as it did when I used the voltmeter. I've also noticed that the point (and signal) motors are not well supported from underneath right now. Because the railway sits on a soft earth bed on a raised wall, gentle erosion is a constant problem. So I guess all of this, and the note about it being a heavy machine, might explain why the Rugen has a problem there.
So my posts #46 & 49 may be on the right track after all? That'll be a turn up for the books
 

dunnyrail

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Thanks for the latest comments. I'm in the process of sealing the railway up for the winter but the Indian Summer weather (ending tonight) has given me a chance to test a bit more.
First I tried to a good clean up of the point blade. Used the track cleaning fluid and toothbrushes. But no effect. Rugen still stopped. However, then I discovered that when I pushed the manual lever of the point so that the blade was hard against the rail, the Rugen took off, just as it did when I used the voltmeter. I've also noticed that the point (and signal) motors are not well supported from underneath right now. Because the railway sits on a soft earth bed on a raised wall, gentle erosion is a constant problem. So I guess all of this, and the note about it being a heavy machine, might explain why the Rugen has a problem there.

However I'm glad that finally somebody (@LVT) has come forward with the same experience of the Rugen as me. From your post I understand that this model has always been without skates, and probably always will be, is that correct? The wheelbase too short to fit a skate? (My model is a 28003, bought new about 8 years ago). My railway does usually have a strong German coast theme, including a rake of three Zenner Rugen coaches, and I do like the look of the machine. On the other hand I never actually saw one in action on Rugen - it has always been the big 2-10-2 beasts when I've been there - and it looks like locos without skates may be something I should avoid. I'd rather sell a loco than just have it sit unused; at least its good to know that if I do sell it, I'm not selling damaged goods.
Have you tried my suggestion of a soldered wire as the issue is certainly current flow to that moving rail. Does not need big wire. This is what I have done not the prettiest of jobs but point is in a fiddle yard. You can see how on the nearest rail I have taken another wire under the rail to complete the same job on both rails. This ensures full current to those tracks. A similar job has been done at the rails after the isolating frog. Worth trying out before you sell you Rugen.
7A220529-1C83-4FC9-91D6-59E210816984.jpeg
Incidentally on my first trip to the Rugen back in the 80’s both the 0-8-0’s were out working plus on othervtrips the odd one was out with the harder to catch 2-8-0’s. Though also done a few of the 2-10-2’s as well.
 
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Please, just fix the switch as requested..... I don't get the resistance to do it right... it's clear in the design that the moving rail touching the outer rail is NOT the design.... otherwise why would the metal plate the moving rail slides on even EXIST? Clearly if it did nothing, why go to the extra manufacturing cost to add those components.

Surely this must be clear by now?
 
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